the yank performance 4000 stall has been in this car when I bought it 8 years ago from my friend and I'm assuming when he used to own it he probably had it installed for about a year or two prior to me having it. is it possible that the transmission pump rotor could have survived up until this point? id be impressed if that's the case. I think I'm going to do the pump. I've been looking into the TCI 4000 stall's for the 4l60e, its a little under $500 and it has the better than stock pump rotor. think I'm going tp order it in a couple of weeks and install it and hope for the best. worst case, summer will be over and ill focus on getting a rebuilt or beefed up 4l60e and install in the spring. thanks for your help as well. its greatly appreciated

 

A few things. As others have said you most likely broke the rotor especially since the fluid level does not drop on the dipstick after you start the car. I would not rush out to buy a pump until you pull yours and see what the damage is. Chances are it has some groves in it which is easy to do with aluminum but there has been many times I've just put a rotor kit into the pump and down the road you go.
When a rotor brakes since the pump stops pumping, typically it does not send any material into the rest of the unit. Your pan is clean, good sign. However your converter does have some miles on it, 8 yrs worth. You may want to send it into yank and have them cut it open and make sure it's good to continue running or it may need a few parts; who knows until they cut it open. Either way it won't be as much as a new one if they are about to rebuild it.
I would stay far away from the company you mentioned. I can't tell you how many times I've rebuilt big box trans store units shortly after install and usually many of the internals are sub-par and go into the trash. Your mileage may vary just my .02c.
Also, whatever you decide to do with your pump whether it be saving yours, something used, or reconditioned, unless the company says they do it, someone needs to check the pressure regulator valve bore in the pump stator. I'd say 85% of the pumps I see need to be fixed here. Sonnax offers an oversize valve to fix this and any good trans shop will know about this fix and have the tooling to ream your pump out and install the new valve. Sonnax Oversized Pressure Regulator Valve - 77917-07

 

Almost done pulling the transmission out.. only slight issue I’m running into is the drivers side header is resting on near I believe is the control arm, so I can only lower the transmission so far. I believe I’ll still be able to get to the upper bellhousing bolts in order to pull/slide the transmission out. Aside from that I have the bolt taken out for the transmission fluid dipstick tube but it’s a pain in the *** to pull off.. it’s almost off but I didn’t get to finish it as I had other plans for the day. Just giving y’all an update. I plan on pulling the transmission and then pull the transmission pump out and inspect it and go from there.

 

So the very top bolt, and the upper drivers side bolt, and lastly the upper passenger side bolt won’t come off.. I have since soaked it with PB blaster and hopefully in the coming days it’ll aid in helping getting it loose. I’m going to soak it again within this week for extra measure. And one else run into this issue? Any tips? Literally 3 bolts away from removing the transmission.