Drove from work to go home. About 30 min drive. Was on the freeway, then got into town I was at a stop light. Soon as the light turned green I hit the gas and car wasn’t moving anywhere. It has a yank 4000 performance stall. Not leaking transmission fluid. I did some research and it appears it could be the transmission front pump, or stall. Anyone else experience this issue? If so what was the fix? Thanks everyone for the help. It’s been a frustrating end to my day.

 

Have you checked the fluid condition and level? Does the level on the dip stick change from engine off to engine running?

 

Haven’t checked yet but will be.. keep u posted

 

I would say the pump rotor broke.

But checking fluid would be first for sure....

 

I have never seen a pump rotor just break in a trans that has not been just installed. I'm not saying that it's not posable, just that I have never seen it.

 

His first post says he has a Yank 4000 converter. There is a variable......

 

You're luckier than most!
I've had a rotor break on me...LITERALLY going down the highway not beating on it

If I had a customer tell me that, I probably would have said "yeah right"
but it has happened to me so I'm more understanding if it happens to others.
I've seen it happen 3 or 4 times. Trans is fine for a few months then one day just *pop* rotor is gone

typically it all leads back to a converter issue.
In my case, it was a bit of runout on the hub.
for others, spacing is an issue.
but yes...it does happen

 

I checked the fluid before starting the car and it appears to have been full about a quart over. I then started the car and I can hear a chatter sound.. sounds like it may be the front transmission pump. Not sure if it could also be the 4000 stall.. I’ll have to put the car on jack stands and crawl underneath and take a peak. It’s not going to be fun taking the transmission out regardless in the driveway

 

Pump rotors can break any time for various reasons . Example low fluid or to high fluid causing air to enter and slide to bounce all over. Have observed both these conditions on the dyno, Other causes excessive converter spacing this can work for a long time but all it takes is just enough in the right conditions to have converter leave pump and boom its over..
Quickest way to check pump pull out pressure port or unhook line and start watch for mess unless you have gauge in port, It it shows pressure or you get heavy flow its not the pump. Nothing and pumps definitely dead.

 

im planning on running that test tomorrow. Going to unhook one of the lines from the trans cooler and into a bucket, and start it up and see if it comes pouring out. If it’s not the pump, I’ll suspect it’s possibly the stall.

 

i checked the level before starting up the car and it seemed to be overfilled by approximately a quart or less. Was still red and didn’t appear burnt. When started the car? I heard a chattering noise, but the level of the transmission fluid didn’t seem to change. I only ran it for about a minute.

 

Here’s my findings today. Did the test and the transmission fluid was not pouring out with one of the lines going to trans cooler, plus it’s making a chattering sound.. I suspect the front pump is dead and needs to be replaced. What do you guys think? The chattering sounds, sounds like the pump rotor is shot. I’ve never replaced a transmission pump but know I can buy a whole new complete one. I’m assuming the pump rotor comes with it. Any thoughts guys? Please feel free to chime in. Thanks everyone

 

Chattering sound. Sounds like the front transmission pump rotor

 

second video I did the fluid test to see if it would fish out but it didn’t.. I suspect the pump is dead.

 

Yep, It looks like the pump broke. You can change just the pump as long as the broken pump pieces didn't go throughout the trans. Before buying another pump I would drop the pan and check for meal in the bottom of the pan.

 

took the transmission pan today and inspected.. fluid appears to be cherry red still, and I didn’t find any metal shavings inside the pan. I’m assuming it should be ok to just get a new front pump for it?

 

You need to pull the pump out and see, you could get lucky and just the rotor broke but you need to check both pump halves surfaces for scoring, converter hub, vanes ect.

 

Remove the filter and TCC solenoid then look down in the trans where the base of the pump mates with the case, you will see a place where the paper pump gasket is not resting on the case. Take a big screwdriver and place it between the pump and reverse drum in an area that will not damage or gouge any sealing surfaces and pry up on the pump until it popes out of the case. Then place the pump with the seal face down and stator support through a hole in your work bench, unbolt the pump halves and lift up on the sealing ring area and separate the pump halves. The rotor will be facing up in the pump housing that stayed on the bench.

 

I'm debating on replacing the entire pump or drop in a remanufactured 4l60e. replacing the pump would be the currently more affordable option for me. only downfall is should I use the 4000 stall or put back the factory one? if so, wouldn't I have to send the computer out to get retuned? I'm assuming so. id rather use the 4000 stall but not sure if I should as I was getting a shuttering feeling at a certain speed but would go away. not sure exactly what I want to do yet. what I do know is id like to get my Camaro moving again so I can enjoy driving it for the remaining summer.

 

.....whatever you do make sure you get your converter spacing correct. This is most likely what happened to this one. Pure assumption, but a high assumption