When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It’s been over a decade since I built a 700r. Guy brought one to me, I almost said no but wth. Well I built it. Has 1st and reverse only. I just pulled it back out. Here’s what I checked:
governor. Not stuck, not worn out, functions fine.
2-4 servo. Has .80-.100 clearance. Not installed incorrectly.
pulled whole trans apart. Saw no issue except for one. It had a stupid transgo shift kit in it and the 1-2 accumulator was stuck at the top of it travel and the piston was almost past the pin. It has a short spring on top and bottom. Piston was cocked sideways and stuck. Probably a huge pressure leak if I had to guess. Could that be the issue?
It was at the top like this, stuck.
I need to add. On the street it would not shift to second. On jackstands it would very easily and slowly go into second and it would downshift to first manually
sounds like classic stripped governor gear. did you replace gear and put roll pin back in?
One if the first things I mentioned was the governor is fine lol. I put a new gear. Of course I put the roll pin in. Cleaned the valve out and made sure it doesn’t stick. I wish that would have been my problem. I pulled the whole transmission back apart and everything is assembled correctly. No orings are missing. Clutches air check fine. The clutches and the band look perfect. Only problem I found was the 1-2 accumulator piston over traveled and got cocked in the bore. I read if this happens it may not shift to second but I couldnt get it to shift to third either.
My throttle valve stuck once and I only had 1st and reverse, it would not shift. It came loose after I popped the cable a time or two. That doesn't explain how it would shift on jack stands though.
Looks like a burnt reverse drum in the pic. Any pics of the band? What servo? 4th servo installed in cover correctly?
that’s not the drum from this unit. That’s a drum from a unit brought to me, I put a new drum in it. The servo was installed correctly, I mentioned in post number 1.
clutches, steels and band and drum all look new and unused. I suspect valvebody or the 1-2 accumulator. I just need to know what would happen if the 1-2 accumulator piston was leaking badly.
it would leak accumulator oil into the 2nd gear clutch circuit and make its way through a long convoluted circuit and would eventually exhaust at the 1-2 shift valve
it would leak accumulator oil into the 2nd gear clutch circuit and make its way through a long convoluted circuit and would eventually exhaust at the 1-2 shift valve
would it still shift? Or just have 1st? I haven’t pulled the valvebody yet to see if I put something in wrong. It happens.
in 1st gear it'll be a big accumulator leak
in 2nd it'll leak oil into the accumulator circuit the other direction
it's the same effect as a cracked piston which is common for the 60e family
don't think it is your no-shift problem but it's not helping anything either.
Check the TV...they are known to stick. If this sat for a while...it may very well be stuck
Check the valve body. Take it apart and check for sticky valves or corrosion etc.
All cast iron vb and steel valves...you see the recipe for stiction there
in 1st gear it'll be a big accumulator leak
in 2nd it'll leak oil into the accumulator circuit the other direction
it's the same effect as a cracked piston which is common for the 60e family
don't think it is your no-shift problem but it's not helping anything either.
Check the TV...they are known to stick. If this sat for a while...it may very well be stuck
Check the valve body. Take it apart and check for sticky valves or corrosion etc.
All cast iron vb and steel valves...you see the recipe for stiction there
You know how a lot of threads will just die without the op posting back whether he found the problem? Well that’s not my style. It does no good for someone searching to find an answer and come up with a dead end. I was pretty certain what I saw with the accumulator was causing my problem. Then for some reason I started doubting it. I was about to put the pan back on and put it in the truck but I’m glad I didn’t. You see, I pulled the whole thing apart except the valve body. And something told me, pull the vb off lazy ***. Just do it. If it don’t work, I’ll be kicking my self in the ***. And yea, just that would have happened. You ready for this? Evidently a check ball fell into the governor filter hole and was blocking that passage. Yea. Wth. Just my kind of luck. The yahoo who built it before me didn’t have a filter there when I pulled it apart. So I’m checking the filter to see if it might have got clogged….and I decide to look down the hole and saw a check ball. I laughed. I don’t ever remember seeing a check ball in there so I called a guy I know who owns probably the most reputable shop in town and asked him. He laughed, said he’s seen it before. Happens. But no it’s not supposed to have a ball there. I know what your thinking. Didnt I notice a ball was missing? Nope, I always toss the steel ***** and replace with plastic ones. I’ll post back tomorrow when it back together to confirm, but that has to be the issue.
The location of that Filter-Element, is where Drive-4 Fluid enters the Governor.
You don't want to block that Hole (or restrict it) under normal circumstances...
It will prevent Governor Fluid pressure from building-up (with Output-Shaft/ Vehicle Speed).
Then there will not be enough Governor Fluid pressure to move the 1-2 Shift Valve-Train into the Up-Shifted position (2nd-Gear).
The same goes for the 2-3 and 3-4 Shift Valve-Train.
TransGo actually recommends installing a 0.063" Orifice into the Governor Fluid Out Hole (next to the Hole that had that Check-Ball in it).
The location of that Filter-Element, is where Drive-4 Fluid enters the Governor.
You don't want to block that Hole (or restrict it) under normal circumstances...
It will prevent Governor Fluid pressure from building-up (with Output-Shaft/ Vehicle Speed).
Then there will not be enough Governor Fluid pressure to move the 1-2 Shift Valve-Train into the Up-Shifted position (2nd-Gear).
The same goes for the 2-3 and 3-4 Shift Valve-Train.
TransGo actually recommends installing a 0.063" Orifice into the Governor Fluid Out Hole (next to the Hole that had that Check-Ball in it).
thanks for confirming. I had a doh moment on this. Not exactly my fault per se, I never saw a check ball fall in that hole. Thinking back, I did witness a check ball fall “somewhere” and I thought it just fell into the fluid tray in the rear of my bench. I never checked because I was going to toss it anyways. Guess I now know where it really went.
Did you replace the 4 pinions with 5 pinions?
I'm just teasing you!! Good work. and p.s. good call on the plastic check *****. that is the right move for sure.
Did you replace the 4 pinions with 5 pinions?
I'm just teasing you!! Good work. and p.s. good call on the plastic check *****. that is the right move for sure.
nah, it’s a stock v6 truck. 4 pinions will probably hold up for a while. I did put a beast shell in it tho. Well every trans I build gets a beast no matter what. Every one I do gets the plastic ***** too. Gpz 3-4 clutches, high energy on all others and a carbon band.
anyways, the reason I was checking back is to say that the trans works perfect now. I’ll deliver the truck to the owner tomorrow.
short story. 99% of the time I don’t pull and reinstall. However, this guy paid someone to pull it and put it back in. Well it didn’t shift. Sounded like a “my” problem. An error on my part. So I went picked the truck up and brought it home. Pulled the trans out. Fixed it and put it back in. I always back up my work. I don’t have errors usually, but it happens from time to time. No matter what, I make sure whoever I’m doing something for is happy.
also. Earlier today I took it on a test drive. Got up to 45-50 for a couple seconds and all of a sudden it started shaking real back and clunking. Flock. It didn’t shift into overdrive either so that concerned me. I limped it home. Got under it and one of the u joints came apart. Guy had just put new joints in it and one of the clips wasn’t seated I guess. The cap popped out. Ugh. So I had to fix the driveshaft and then go drive it again. Success!
I see what you are using for the 2-4 Band and the 3-4 clutch...
But which High-Energy Frictions are you using for the other Clutches?
Even in high HP Builds, the stock Tan Borg-Warner Frictions do just fine...
The Stock Band actually does well too.
I do prefer the BW HE Frictions for the 3-4 Clutch, but the Tan BW Frictions do decently also.
Are the High-Energy Frictions that you use, from Alto or from Allomatic?
I see what you are using for the 2-4 Band and the 3-4 clutch...
But which High-Energy Frictions are you using for the other Clutches?
Even in high HP Builds, the stock Tan Borg-Warner Frictions do just fine...
The Stock Band actually does well too.
I do prefer the BW HE Frictions for the 3-4 Clutch, but the Tan BW Frictions do decently also.
Are the High-Energy Frictions that you use, from Alto or from Allomatic?
the other frictions I use are dark colored, looks like they have some light metallic in them. The parts place I get them from refers to them as high energy frictions. I’ll ask him Monday what name brand they are. I thought they might be bw also. I can post a pic of them, I’ll be picking up another order soon. I’ve got to build a 60e for my buddys 408 Silverado.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Quick 700r4 question….. 
