Fresh rebuild 4l60e
Please tell me its something besides the sprag backwards, no movement in drive it has reverse it has man 1 and 2. Is there anything else it could be? Has good line pressure.
Just cant believe i did this.
Just cant believe i did this.
if it drives in 1 & 2...it is not the fwd accum. I'm not sure why you have such a hard on for that accumulator lol
input sprag is the issue here.
If you were to drive it, you would be able to start in 1st, shift to 2nd, then shift to 3rd at an appropriate speed...and when you shifted to 4th it would either lock up, or break something.
input sprag is the issue here.
If you were to drive it, you would be able to start in 1st, shift to 2nd, then shift to 3rd at an appropriate speed...and when you shifted to 4th it would either lock up, or break something.
if it drives in 1 & 2...it is not the fwd accum. I'm not sure why you have such a hard on for that accumulator lol
input sprag is the issue here.
If you were to drive it, you would be able to start in 1st, shift to 2nd, then shift to 3rd at an appropriate speed...and when you shifted to 4th it would either lock up, or break something.
input sprag is the issue here.
If you were to drive it, you would be able to start in 1st, shift to 2nd, then shift to 3rd at an appropriate speed...and when you shifted to 4th it would either lock up, or break something.
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Are you sure you beat the 2 checkballs inside where the pin should go?
Im asking that for a reason. I had a deal with it and i had the very same symptoms.
Because if you did put the 2 checkballs in the bore, Maroon is right. And if Maroon is right, then it's a really really bad news for you....And Maroon is 99.9% Right. Im just leaving that 0.01% for mistake that i did before, that Maroon would never even think of because it's so stupid to miss this step.
Im asking that for a reason. I had a deal with it and i had the very same symptoms.
Because if you did put the 2 checkballs in the bore, Maroon is right. And if Maroon is right, then it's a really really bad news for you....And Maroon is 99.9% Right. Im just leaving that 0.01% for mistake that i did before, that Maroon would never even think of because it's so stupid to miss this step.
Last edited by Edward Stark; Nov 12, 2021 at 03:41 PM.
Are you sure you beat the 2 checkballs inside where the pin should go?
Im asking that for a reason. I had a deal with it and i had the very same symptoms.
Because if you did put the 2 checkballs in the bore, Maroon is right. And if Maroon is right, then it's a really really bad news for you....And Maroon is 99.9% Right. Im just leaving that 0.01% for mistake that i did before, that Maroon would never even think of because it's so stupid to miss this step.
Im asking that for a reason. I had a deal with it and i had the very same symptoms.
Because if you did put the 2 checkballs in the bore, Maroon is right. And if Maroon is right, then it's a really really bad news for you....And Maroon is 99.9% Right. Im just leaving that 0.01% for mistake that i did before, that Maroon would never even think of because it's so stupid to miss this step.
somebody isn't telling the whole truth here.
The initial post says "Has good line pressure."
if you did not install the accumulator correctly and had a huge hydraulic leak...then you would NOT have good line pressure
besides...it is the FWD accumulator...you'd have that huge leak in ANY forward gear...including manual 1 and 2
the story here does not add up
The initial post says "Has good line pressure."
if you did not install the accumulator correctly and had a huge hydraulic leak...then you would NOT have good line pressure
besides...it is the FWD accumulator...you'd have that huge leak in ANY forward gear...including manual 1 and 2
the story here does not add up
somebody isn't telling the whole truth here.
The initial post says "Has good line pressure."
if you did not install the accumulator correctly and had a huge hydraulic leak...then you would NOT have good line pressure
besides...it is the FWD accumulator...you'd have that huge leak in ANY forward gear...including manual 1 and 2
the story here does not add up
The initial post says "Has good line pressure."
if you did not install the accumulator correctly and had a huge hydraulic leak...then you would NOT have good line pressure
besides...it is the FWD accumulator...you'd have that huge leak in ANY forward gear...including manual 1 and 2
the story here does not add up
The overrun clutches only take the place of the forward sprag in manual 1 and 2. You still need the forward clutch pack to move forward.
Im no expert, but my guess is the leak partially apply the right pressure for 1 and 2 this way :
When you put a sonnax pinless, it completely blocks the fwd acum bore from outside. And this is the only leak path that exists
So maybe the line pressure is enough to run 1st and 2nd and 3rd(only on high rev).
I didnt check the line pressures tho, but i can clearly state that the tranny runs like normal up to 2nd gear.
Last edited by Edward Stark; Nov 15, 2021 at 12:27 PM.
Btw, the creator of this post could just assume the line pressure is good by judging how it runs on Reverse, D1 and D2. It runs like normal
Please forgive me, I checked the line pressure in park, I honestly dont know why i said that as im lucky that edward must have missed that part. everything was going wrong at that time and panick had set in. I took the gauge off because it was leaking. sorry for the confusion, maroon ive read alot of your post and ive learned alot from you and alot of these other guys on this forum.
listen, if you're saying that the pump can apply the overruns despite a .250" hole in the fwd circuit
fine by me
Is it possible for the overruns to move the car without the fwd engaged? yep
is it possible to engage the overruns with that much leak in the fwd circuit...I doubt it...but I've never been in a situation to test that theory just for fun...so if you're saying so...I guess I don't care enough to argue.
I have a bad feeling this thread will result in a poor bastard in the future with a forward sprag issue who will waste his time chasing this fwd accum leak for no good reason.
fine by me
Is it possible for the overruns to move the car without the fwd engaged? yep
is it possible to engage the overruns with that much leak in the fwd circuit...I doubt it...but I've never been in a situation to test that theory just for fun...so if you're saying so...I guess I don't care enough to argue.
I have a bad feeling this thread will result in a poor bastard in the future with a forward sprag issue who will waste his time chasing this fwd accum leak for no good reason.
listen, if you're saying that the pump can apply the overruns despite a .250" hole in the fwd circuit
fine by me
Is it possible for the overruns to move the car without the fwd engaged? yep
is it possible to engage the overruns with that much leak in the fwd circuit...I doubt it...but I've never been in a situation to test that theory just for fun...so if you're saying so...I guess I don't care enough to argue.
I have a bad feeling this thread will result in a poor bastard in the future with a forward sprag issue who will waste his time chasing this fwd accum leak for no good reason.
fine by me
Is it possible for the overruns to move the car without the fwd engaged? yep
is it possible to engage the overruns with that much leak in the fwd circuit...I doubt it...but I've never been in a situation to test that theory just for fun...so if you're saying so...I guess I don't care enough to argue.
I have a bad feeling this thread will result in a poor bastard in the future with a forward sprag issue who will waste his time chasing this fwd accum leak for no good reason.






