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In this thread I’ll document my inspection and build. It’s a 96 4l80 that’s going to get a Jakes stage 4 kit and his D3 converter. It’ll get bolted to a Ford barra motor making around 1000rwhp, spinning to maybe 7500rpm. I picked this think up from a scrap yard and it’s pretty clearly already been rebuilt. It has a transgo kit, but they didn’t utilize all the springs and it has all the check *****, plus they drilled the lube to line bypass in the wrong spot. Thanks to @MaroonMonsterLS1 for giving me the info on that. I tried to plug it with a nail, but due to the angle it’s too close to the valve and I’m concerned with interference, so I’ll just get a rebuilt one. Anyone have recommendations for a source?
I pulled the overdrive and overrun clutch and everything seems to look ok. The frictions looked brand new and planetary clearance was between .016 and .020 on all of them.
Next was the 4th clutch and things looked good there as well with the frictions being in great shape. However, the upgraded bolt from the Transgo kit holding it to the base was not even hand tight! That can’t be good.
I pulled the forward clutch and thing didn’t look as good here. Substantial wear on the steels and frictions, and quite the odd gouge on the forward hub and end plate. The Jakes kit will come with a billet forward hub so I don’t care about that, but this looks like FOD to me, but it’s just such a clean mark. However, I don’t know **** so I’ll let you be the judge. What say you fellas?
the circular, and the spiral, grooving on your FWD hub is factory and you'll find those marks on nearly every late 80e hub.
but if you're replacing with an upgraded unit, that's a wise choice for your build level
Alright, so I got back on it today. I ordered a rebuilt pump assembly from ShiftRite Transmissions. Pulled out the direct drum and intermediate clutches and drilled the centrifugal relief in the drum. The frictions looked good in both, but for some reason one of them seemed to be a different style. Is there a reason for this?
Getting the center carrier out was a major PITA. It would move maybe a 1/8” and get stuck. Finally with some finagling and a lot of cursing it finally came out. I’m curious if it was just that tight in the roller clutch or maybe these jagged edges were catching on the lugs? Maybe I should clean these up with a file? Everything else looks ok. There’s no smearing of the metal by the o rings or on the roller clutch side.
I decided to have another crack at it before I drink too much to read a feeler gauge. Turns out I should’ve waited until I was drunk. Most of the planets in the reaction and output carrier measure .028 which is out of spec. Is this too far for re-use? I assume it is. Also, I found some not great bearing wear on the bearing in the reaction carrier and had another look at the center support. One side is definitely polished and the other untouched. Not sure what my next course of action is here. Is this center support junk? I feel like it is. I’m going to have to do some more research it seems.
Most of the planets in the reaction and output carrier measure .028 which is out of spec. Is this too far for re-use?
This becomes more of a problem with heavier Vehicles (greater Thrust Forces).
Can you Post some images, where we can see the Thrust Washers for the Pinion-Gears?
It is more important that the the individual Pinion-Gears do not Rock Back and Forth on the Pinion-Pins.
This becomes more of a problem with heavier Vehicles (greater Thrust Forces).
Can you Post some images, where we can see the Thrust Washers for the Pinion-Gears?
It is more important that the the individual Pinion-Gears do not Rock Back and Forth on the Pinion-Pins.
I think this may be the best I can do without disassembling the planets. There is zero wobble, just the slightly excessive runout.
if there are replacements available I have not found them. It its an incredibly hard steel sleeve so my SOP when they have wear is to pull the low roller sprag inner race off and polish it on a lathe. mark the orientation of the sprag race, they are ground after they are pinned and bolted and only go back on one way.
and yes you should probably rebuild those planets as well.
I strongly strongly recommend against removing the low roller inner race from the center support.
As already mentioned, they are finish ground after pinned and bolted to the center support.
Even if orientation is marked, you will not nail the concentricity again when reinstalling.
If the op is worried about the area where the reaction carrier has worn, you can try to clean it up a bit...or just replace the c/s
I strongly strongly recommend against removing the low roller inner race from the center support.
As already mentioned, they are finish ground after pinned and bolted to the center support.
Even if orientation is marked, you will not nail the concentricity again when reinstalling.
If the op is worried about the area where the reaction carrier has worn, you can try to clean it up a bit...or just replace the c/s
Thank you. I will likely replace the center support. I see CK has one with on oversize piston. Is it worth also dual feeding that one?
I ordered the Sonnax kit to rebuild the planetaries, and will bring it to Level 10 to perform the rebuild since I don’t have the tools.
you don't dual feed the intermediates...you dual feed the directs.
Worth doing no matter which center support you use
There are some instances where an oversized piston can be beneficial...but those instances are VERY few and far between and I almost never recommend them.
CK can also be a bit of a pain to deal with. Just find a stock replacement center support in good condition and you'll be good to go
Make certain to obtain a Center Support for the Early-4L80E (Both Cooler Ports at the Bell-Housing).
The Late-4L80E (1997+) Center Support will not work for you Early Transmission.
Make certain to obtain a Center Support for the Early-4L80E (Both Cooler Ports at the Bell-Housing).
The Late-4L80E (1997+) Center Support will not work for you Early Transmission.
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4L80e build thread, why am I doing this 
