when you say hot water, you dont mean boiling hot water but pretty hot like maybe a keurig coffee maker or something? hotter than out of the faucet but not rolling boil hot right?

 

I use a coffee pot
that's boiling hot
boiling a pot of water would also be fine

 

this looks pretty easy. i think i shouldnt have a problem installing new teflon ring on the input shaft using this technique


that video, they use hot water to soften, then what looks to be a piece of a 2 liter bottle cut to size so they can slide the ring down into place without damaging it, and then they use a zip tie to shrink/compress it to size. but i think i like your idea of the hose clamp and some kind of plastic to protect the ring from getting damaged while shrinking it. i will probably go ahead and order 2 or 3 sets of these rings so i can practice some before putting the final ones on.

but i guess what i would be shooting for is only slightly stretching them, and then compress them just enough to allow the pump to slide back over... right?

 

stretch them on just enough to get them in their grooves
A hook pick between the ring and shaft to "walk" them down works fine

tighten your clamp down tight against the input

 

thank you guys. when i get the parts in i will update the thread or possibly start a new one with an appropriate title.

 

what are you guys's thoughts on this kit -

 

here is a parts list and their manufacturers:

GOOD MORNING
1 TED-002435 Overhaul Kit PRECISION ,(97-03), 4L60-E
1 CFI-005704 Filter, Deep Pan (Exc 4WD Colorado/Canyon/Isuzu/H3) All Plastic, 1997-Up , 4L60E/65E
1 CBF-077700 Band FLEX , 2/4 (2.280" Wide) Raybestos Pro-Series, 1982-U 700-R4/4L60E/4
1 CBV-033321 Pump bushing (Babbit) 1982-Up , TH 700-R4/4L60E
1 BOX2 BOX 18*16*5
1 PK-42278 PISTON KIT GFX 3 PCS 4L60E
1 ADP-000606 CLUTH PACK HIGH FRICTION, 4L60E ALLOMATIC

 

For a stock rebuild the kit should be okay. I would replace more than just the pump bushing. What brand are the frictions?

 

james, I would run the teflon pump bushing not the babbit one. if you are looking for a complete rebuild kit I would talk to Dana @ Probuilt Automatics. he has a complete package as well as a custom shift kit to make your transmission live longer. he uses quality parts and takes the guess work out for DIY guy.

bbond, says allomatic for clutches which I think is BW??? Nope just checked it's Raybeatos

 

i sent dana a message/email. hopefully he can work me up a good deal for just a bare stock rebuild without steels.

but while i wait on that, i have another thing i am wondering/concerned about.

the valve body from the transmission is toast i am pretty sure. as stated earlier in the thread, the forward accumulator piston bore is etched pretty deep. i can easily catch my fingernail on it. i am not to sure how it got that severely etched but it did and probably accounted for some of the problems i had. but, i have a spare valve body that looks ok to reuse, but it has some white corrosion on it of some sort. its mostly on the bottom side of the valve body but the mounting surface looks good. but i will need to figure out howto , or if i even can, clean that up without damaging the valve body. is brake parts cleaner ok to use here or would a person rather use just tranny fluid to clean it or maybe soap and water and some type of bore brushes or acetone or kerosene?

 

It's aluminum, any type of solvent and brushes will work. As long as you don't score up the bores or worm tracks you will be fine.

 

ok i am having a problem contacting the people at global transmission parts and it is delaying my attempt to buy parts. but i am also having another issue with the parts list of this seal kit - #1 https://globaltransmissionparts.com/...l-rebuild-kit/

all of the pistons in my input drum are molded seals and are in great shape. but the reverse input drum piston is not molded and i cannot find a molded one to buy either. looking at the parts list in the kit in the link, it doesnt specifically say that the inner and outter reverse input drum piston seals are included. it does say "without piston lip seals" so i take it that those are not included? the seals at the right side of that ipicture look like they could be the reverse input drum piiston inner and outter lip seal but i am unsure.

but i think this kit right here looks better - #2 https://globaltransmissionparts.com/...n-rebuild-kit/ but i am still unsure if it comes with the reverse input drum piston lip inner and outter seals. could someone please give me a little insight? in the link it says "2004-2013" but i am pretty sure it would work if it has the lip seals i need for my 1998 4l60e.

@tayto i would love to get a teflon coated bushing but it looks liek that one part is 30 bucks by itself. i also have not been able to get dana to email me back yet, i will probably try to give him a call today. i am sure he is a very busy man.

so the parts list to get is a master seal kit (with reverse input drum inner and outter piston seals), a 2-4 band, a master bushing kit, 15 quarts of dex/merc tranny fluid, a filter and a corvette servo (if i have enough money) looks like it is only 14 bucks - https://globaltransmissionparts.com/...r4-4l60-4l60e/ so i will probably be able to get that. does it sound like i am forgetting anything? i can buy a whole rebuild kit for 150 bucks, but it doesnt come with the bushings, and after buying the bushings it will put me well over budget and i wont have the funds for the tranny fluid.

but if someone could help me distiguish if the first link has the reverse input drum piston inner and outter lip seals, i sure would appreciate it because there is not enough info on the site to come to a conslusion (for me atleast), but the seal kit in the second link looks more complete and tbh looks better and is only like 10-15 bucks more i think. anyhelp would be appreciated and i will finally be able to buy the parts. sorry for all the trouble.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12243137

 

thank you tayto, that will go in my list of parts i am going to order. i sent dana a parts list and i am waiting for his reply. i know he is a very busy man, just hope he replies to me with a price soon.

i think i found a solution to my 3-4 accumulator bore problem. there is a sonnax repair sleeve https://www.sonnax.com/parts/2519-3-...tor-sleeve-kit

if i am thinking correctly here, i just press that sleeve in (with a block of wood or a socket that is the right size) until it is bottomed out, then assume reassembly as usual. so with this kit, i think i can salvage my original valve body, because the spare valve body that i have has water damage, it looks like it has white crust all over the bottom and i am scared to use it without knowing if i can clean it back down to fresh aluminum, but i dont know if there will be any pitting in the bores and such and just buying a repair sleeve for my original valve body seems like the way to go.

has anyone ever used this, or think it is a good idea and would work? im going to be bare stock, no performane parts on engine or tranny

 

most guys here block the 3/4 accumulator even on a stock build so bore condition does not matter. i found it best to reach dana in the evenings, I usually start calling him around 4pm (he is in California) and try a few more times if he doesn't answer. He is a night owl and usually works at night because of the heat during the day.

 

apologies, i meant the forward accumulator bore on the valve body (circled in red). mine is etched pretty deep and valve body is trash because of it.


but i had just woke up when i seen this sleeve kit and i got confused. looks like it is not for the forward accumulator bore in the valve body and is instead a sleeve kit for the 3-4 accumulator bore on the bottom of the case. ive searched for a sleeve kit for the forward accumulator on the valve body, but havent come up with any hits. the feed hole for the accumulator is right on the edge and i am not to sure that you could even sleeve it. maybe i will give my machine shop a call and see if they can make me a special piston and sleeve for it. might be cheaper than buying a valve body lol. the spare one i have i am afraid to use because of the corrosion.

 

well i think i figured out what caused the original problem. looks like the bore on the reverse input drum where the stator shaft seals is damaged. also the forward piston in my molded piston set has bad spot. but i found some used ones on ebay and have confirmed with the person that the stator bore in the input drum is flat and smooth.

also i found this website https://www.transpartsonline.com/TRA...artsType=4L60E and can buy individual parts. everywhere else i was looking only had banner kits or master or pro kits etc. i should be able to save a little money this way.

also, the other day i went to pick up my band to inspect it again and i hear a snap. upon examining the band, it looks to have some cracks in it now. since the bands function is to grab the reverse drum... would it be acceptable to reuse this or should i get a new one? also my forward molded piston in the input drum has a bad spot on the seal so i will get another one of those too.

does this list seem ok? the bushings through out the tranny all looked good and smooth. i will replace the rear case bushing and the front pump bushing and the stator? shaft bushings and the reverse input drum i am getting seems to have good bushings already installed.


edit: they do not have reverse input drum outter seal but i am going to call them soon and see if they can order one. and the one i have from the spare reverse input drum looks great as well. would like to replace it but will reuse it if needed.

here is the reverse input drum - Ebay - 4L60-E Reverse Input Drum

am looking at valve bodies. am having a hard time finding the right one. by looking at this link https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4113-re...red-valve-body the one i have is a 96-00 non annular and most that i can find are annular tcc exhaust port. my question is the rest of the annular valve body looks identical. could i use any of those as long as i used the correct seperator plate? i am also having a hard time finding the correct seperator plate but i believe the 46-plt-96 is the one i need. is that right? i cannot seem to find a bonded one like this though but if i have to i will use regular gaskets since the trans is out of the truck. if someone could point me in the right direction it sure would be appreciated.

 

Have you checked out Whatever It Takes Transmission Parts for the parts that you need?

 

thanks for sharing. i went and checked out the site. i will need to go through and find all the parts i need again at that website though. so it may take a few.

from the looks of it, it almost looks as if the stator shaft dislodged or possibly the reverse input drum repositioned at some point. the stator shaft teflon rings that go into the reverse input drum looks to have slid and one of the teflon rings looks to have been positioned right over the large square feed hole. looks liek there was gauding inside the bore in the reverse input drum, and the stator shaft on the pump seems to have a gauding as well right around the seals. i will take some pics tomorrow and upload them.

but i wonder if this is most likely the cause of my no reverse situation to begin with? i had to rev it up a little to get it into reverse, then it would 90% of the time slam into gear very violently. could these seals leaking drop line pressure in other circuits? i wouldnt think so since the transmission would be in another gear right?

also, that forward accumulator bore, that could have got hung up and caused light forward clutch applies couldnt it? which could result in my forward clutches getting toasted?

 

well i got to playing around with it some more today. i took my original pump and put the reverse input drum with the original seals still installed, and tried to air test the reverse input drum piston. well it was leaking air so bad that it didnt even engage the reverse piston. so, me being me and trying to learn and play around some, i took the seals from my spare pump and resized them with a zip tie onto my original pump, didnt take 2 mins, and i could tell the reverse drum felt like it sealed MUCH better on the stator shaft seals, i could feel them gripping real good when i lowered the reverse drum down. took my air nozzle and air tested it and it engaged the clutch perfectly.

the original stator shaft/reverse drum seals were... thinner, almost liek they had been spinning in the bore or something, or maybe the reverse drum bushings finally gave up and the resulting play ate up the teflon rings on the stator shaft. even after trying to resize the original seals it still leaked so bad it wouldnt budge the reverse piston. so it looks like these teflon seals went out which in turn messed up my reverse drum beyond repair. but this has absolutely got to be why i didnt have reverse and why it was slamming into gear. just glad i figured it out for sure lol.

once i put the reverse drum onto the input drum and then lowered all of that into the pump, i am getting all of the pistons engaging, but i think i have some cross leaks from the old original teflon seals between the overrun, forward and 3-4 pistons on the input shaft. i think possibly that this is why i lost all forward gears.

one other thing is, when the forward clutches engage, they do not move a whole lot. i will have to recheck clearances when reassembling with the new molded pistons i am getting. does anyone know of acceptable tolerances for reverse, forward, 3-4 and low-rev clutch packs? i am not positive on the manufacturer of the clutches but they are indeed after market i am pretty sure. but i am shooting for just straight stock clearances. i was trying to measure them but there is so much conflicting info out there and most that i find are people running modified clutch packs with much more tighter tolerances. im just need to know an acceptable clearance for those clutch packs for stock application. thank you guys for your help this far. the parts should be ordered and arrive in a week or so hopefully, and we can get this thing rebuilt! well kind of rebuilt. would love to dump a **** ton more money into it but i am in a bad situation and dont have a lot of help and every dollar counts right now.

here is an updated parts list, if anyone sees anything i missed please tell me: