Correct

 

ok. i have got all the parts yesterday. am putting new rear case bushing. i reinstalled old bushing for practice but it is turned about 1/8th - 3/16th from the original position rotationally. do i need to be very critical with its rotational position? just as long as it is installed about 1/16 of an inch below flush so the bearing doesnt hit it?

 

nvm i think i got it. its sitting just below flush of the inside. this is the new bushing




does that look pretty good?

 

i got another question. the low roller clutch inner race (675)... does it fit down flush with the top of the the roller clutch assembly (678)? because mine is sticking up a good 1/4". i would have thought that it would go all the way down over both sides of those lugs on the inner race//reaction carrier union








its hard to get a good view of this on any video ive found so i reckon i will stop right here for the evening and await someone guidance

edit: ok i think i have come to the conclusion that trans bench was using a different race in the lo and reverse clutch support assembly which looks to sit lower in the clutch assembly. is this corret? should mine be sticking up about 1/8" - 1/4"?

 

Are you mixing an older narrow version with the later wide version? Did to tap it all of the way down onto the planet carrier? Is the inner race the same width as the outer race? From the pictures in looks like you need to tap it down onto the planet carrier some more.

 

not mixing anything. these are the original part that were in this case. my inner race looks just like part 675 in the picture i posted earlier. see how it has two sets of lugs? i were only able to get one set of lugs to go onto the reaction carrier. but then i looked an noticed that the reaction carrier only has one set of lugs where the inner race (part 675) meets the reaction carrier (part 681). one side of the race fit very good onto the reaction carrier, but i could not tap it down any further, and as easily as the first side went on... i dont see why i cannot get it to push in there any further. maybe i need to try and spin it clockwise while i push down....

 

Pull the outer race and planet carrier out of the case and assemble it all on the bench. The inner race will stick up some, but a 1/4 inch seems much.

 

am doing it now. i took the clutch stack out and noticed my retainer clip was installed wrong. well, upon trying to use my home made spring compressing tool, i bent the metal cage on the spring. luckly i have another one in the spare tranny... now if i can just get it out and get it installed without messing it up lol. but i will assemble the reaction carrier and clutch support plate with race installed and take some pics. i think it is actually normal because on the reaction carrier only has one set of lugs/splines, so it will not sit down flush like i was thinking and was most likely correctly installed. luckly i seen that retainer clips position though. would have hated for that to come off as soon as i put it into gear lol.

but yeah, i made me a little spring compressor tool out of an aluminum camper shell clamp and a threaded rod. works good but it is a little hard to get it lined up. anyways, i will post more pics shortly

 

Assemble the reaction carrier with thrust washer, clutch support plate, roller clutch and inner race together outside of the case. Then you will be able to see how much the inner race sets above the roller clutch. It will not be flush, but I don't think it should be 1/4". I could be wrong it has been a few months since I have been in one of these. Yes, the lugs of reaction carrier only go into the inner race about halfway.

 

damn i had a long post and somehow it all got deleted. anyway, i got everythign disassembled and checked, it looks like that is just how it is from the factory, there is no more room for the race to sit down further onto that reaction carrier.

i got lo and rev all done and put the sun shell and all, and then i went into assembling the input drum clutches with the new pistons i bought. well after 3-4 hours, it turns out i forgot to put the forward clutch housing in there as well so my clearances for the forward clutches was coming up way short. then after another hour of me questioning my very own existence, i installed the clutch housing and assembled the overrun, forward and 3-4 clutch packs. the forward and 3-4 clutches were larger than the expected clearances, but after the day ive had, i just assembled it and got the reverse input drum installed on the input drum and proceeded to lower it into the case. after 3 or 4 mins, i had it bottomed out, top of reverse drum was below the pump/case mating surface. i went ahead and practiced putting the band on as well, though i think i have another problem though i dont think it is really a big problem but i will explain tomorrow with better detail when i take it all back out to double check my input drum clutch clearances and adjust somehow if i need to. its beer thirty for me. and as always thanks for yalls guidance and help

edit: i did measure the clearances for the forward and 3-4 clutches and both were on the larger side. like larger than spec possibly. the forward clutches are hard to get an accurate reading on but they are about .050 - .055 i think and the 3-4 are almost .070. both could stand to tighten up a little. but i will get better measurements tomorrow. i will most likely be completely disassembling it again just for practice assembling it. every time i go back and redo it, it gets easier and easier to remeber how and what goes where.

 

ok so i took the input drum back out and took the forward sprag assembly out and then put the pressure plate back on the forward clutches. tolerances are:

forward clutch: .043-.045 (atsg doc says .030 - .063 is normal)
3-4 clutch: .070 (atsg doc says .035 - .083 is normal)
reverse clutch: .060 (atsg doc says .040 - .076 is normal)

all of these measuremenet were taken with soaked clutches and i had air tested the pistons and seated the clutch assembly. do you think my clearances are normal for used clutches and steels? maybe the used clutches are "broke in". i wonder if i could tighten up forward and 3-4 clutches. 1 extra steel plate will put me above tolerances though

also, the other problem i were talking about is.. if i put the sun gear (i think it is the sun gear that unions the forward sprag and the input carrier) in the input carrier, i can turn it both ways and the sun shell will spin. but if i grab the outside of the input carrier and turn it counter clock wise, it locks. if i turn it clockwise, it will turn, sometimes faster than i am turning the input carrier.

my question is, how fast this sun shell turns is not predictable. sometimes it will spin faster than i am turning the input carrier, sometimes not. does this mean that my lo and reverse clutches could be bad? i realize that after the tranny is put back into the truck, the lo and rev piston will apply, but i am unsure about this unpredictable behavior.

also, i am eye balling this but want to get someones opinion before i pull the trigger and buy it. mainly because it has this "BAN" wording. if it is remanufactured, i wonder if BW themselves did it or if it is some cheap knock off counterfit? please let me know and thanks ahead of time.

 

I would like to see the 3-4 and reverse clutch clearances a little tighter. With used clutches and steels that is about as good as you can get without using different size pressure plates. These clearances should be okay for a stock used parts rebuild.

As for the band I have no idea what the "BAN" stands for.

 

i received this response from the sellerso looks like it will work and the alternate part numbers match other known part numbers that will work with my model. i am not sure if there is a specific band for LS style trannies and a different one for LT style, but in my head it seems like all of that would be the same regardless of it being LS or LT.

EDIT: order the band and also a new neutral safety switch. everything should be here by the 4th. will update thread when everything arrives

 

The band will fit both, there is no difference.

 

ok. so everything come in and i am sizing the teflon seals on the input shaft. i do not have a hose clamp that is the right size. i was able to install the seals for the reverse input drum/stator shaft seal and got the reverse drum sat down on the pump and was able to pressure check it. i am leaving the reverse drum on the pump over night and tomorrow i will go and get me a couple hose clamps that are the right size for the input shaft but hopefully tomorrow will be the day it all goes back together and hopefully sometime this week i can get it back in the truck. ill post some pics as well.

one other thing is, i need to disassemble the input drum one more time i guess. when i apply air for the forward or overrun piston and then let the pressure off, i get this sound like it is dragging or something so i def need to disassemble that and check it before i install it permanently.

also, the pump i am using is from the spare transmission. the inside where the rotor and vanes run looked a little better and the stator shaft/reverse drum bearing landings looked much better than the original one. it did have some rust on it but i took some scoth brite and tranny fluid and went to town on it. you can still see some discoloration but it is smooth. do you think it is ok to use this like this? ill post some pictures if needed.

also, on a side note that has nothing to do with this tranny but it is about my health. i think i just figured out what is wrong with me. my ex girlfriend told me very serious one day that she poisoned me with boric acid (the stuff that kills fleas) but she is a habitual liar though and you could never get the real truth out of her. but i got to looking for some hose clamps in my cabinets and found big clear pickled egg jar that had some some older electrical stuff (outlets and switches and covers and screws etc) i had stored in it a long time ago... but on the very top of the jar was elemental mercury that my mothers ex boyfriend used when he was mining gold. (my mother passed away a while back and he left and left all his stuff). i had put the mercury up a long time ago and it was no where near this jar and should not have been in this jar much less sitting at the top. so it seems she was poisoning me with elemental mercury. i am having severe weakness, slow reflexes, my memory is toast, and i have a lot of wide spread nerve pain and other neurological symptoms. sometimes it will feel like a bolt of lightning shoots up my backbone... most of the time it is when i am just about to fall asleep and i get these severe shocks. its crazy and i cannot believe i think i have finally figured out what the problem is with me. the doctors have all been looking at me like i am crazy. boy wait till my doc hears this. she really going to think i done fell off my rocker. but man, i have problems speaking most of the time. i forget what i am talking about as i am talking. my messages at this board probably all look like i am demented but i am not, luckly i can reread these messages before i post them (if it does any good haha). sorry for the extra irrelevant info but i have to get this off my chest because i am pretty sure this is what i am suffering from. and if yall knew my ex gf then you would all think the exact same thing. she was crazy af but when we went to see family or friends she would always seem just fine. even my sister told me once "i dont know what your talking about, she seems like a cool person" and to which i responded yeah well you dont have to live with her. dudes, i am astonded that i didnt wake up with a knife being shoved through my chest. this girl would have full fledge conversations with me while i was asleep and the only reason i know is because i woke up during her doing it multiple times. then once i figured otu she was doing it i started recording it. this girl would be tripping so hard that she would think that i was getting up out of bed and going to meet some chicks WHILE SHE WAS AWAKE AND RIGHT NEXT TO ME seeing my every move. she was bonkers and i am glad i got out alive. worst part about it is i havent told yall nothing to bad yet lol. but yeah, i think i finally figured out what the problem is with my health. sorry for the irrelevant info

 

Depends on if it is pitted and then where the pits are at.

 

looks like i was able to get the teflon rings on the input shaft sized with electrical tape. i just went around them with the sticky side facing out and wrapped each one 5 or 6 times really good and tight and let it sit for about 10 - 15 mins, then i used the old stator shaft from the other pump and stuck that on the input shaft for a little while... then took that off and quickly took the reverse drum and set it down on the input drum, then carefully took the pump and slid it down in place. i could feel each seal engaging im pretty sure. i have 2 input shaft seals and 1 stator shaft seal extra that i bought. anyway, now i have the whole thing flipped over on top of another junk reverse drum (had to drill a hole in my bench for the input shaft). but ill let it sit over night. i did notice that the old seals i didnt have to worry about them expanding. when i go to assemble this thing... do i need to worry about the new teflon seals expanding any?

i will post pictures tomorrow of the stator shaft teflon seal and bushing seats/landings. i am pretty sure it is ok, the one that was in the truck i am positive that one is bad. but ill take pics of both tomorrow and upload them

 

The new teflon rings won't expand unless you pull on them.

 

ok. here is a pic of the first one and it is the one i think is "good". it is much better than the original.




And this is the original one that was in the tranny. the bushing seat looks wore down next to the pump body right there. and looks overall gauded i think. does not look like i can reuse this.



if i need to take better pictures just let me know. the "good" one looks pitted but it is smooth enough that i cannot catch a nail on it. i will probably get at it with some more scotch brite. but let me know what yall think. i also think i may have compressed the teflon seals on the stator shaft a little to much. they seal and it seems to check out when air testing, but i do not have to give extra effort to pull the reverse drum off the pump, so maybe i might have compressed them a little to much with the hose clamp. i think i will try to redo them but with electrical tape since the other teflons on the input shaft seem to have sealed great

 

It's hard to tell by the pics, but the 1st one looks okay. The 2nd one looks to be worn where the ring ride.

The teflon ring will swell some when they heat up, they will be fine.