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It's hard to tell by the pics, but the 1st one looks okay. The 2nd one looks to be worn where the ring ride.
The teflon ring will swell some when they heat up, they will be fine.
i got the band in and put the pump on temporarily just so i could take a break for a min. i left the reverse drum off of the stator shaft for maybe 5 mins and the teflon swole back up so i had to size them again. hose clamp works great for the stator shaft seals and electrical tape seems to be the magic touch for the input shaft seals. but like i said, i got the pump set on it temporarily and now i have to get the 2-4 servo seals changed and put that in. i also need to look through my manual to see what kind of clearances i need for the pin and such. i dont have any kind of dial meter to check travel, the best i have is a set of feeler gauges. but i do have the other spare pin and it is longer than the original, so if i need to i could use that. but yeah, seems like all i have left is the servo and the valve body and pan and bell housing. then comes the task of putting it back in lol.
i got the band in and put the pump on temporarily just so i could take a break for a min. i left the reverse drum off of the stator shaft for maybe 5 mins and the teflon swole back up so i had to size them again. hose clamp works great for the stator shaft seals and electrical tape seems to be the magic touch for the input shaft seals. but like i said, i got the pump set on it temporarily and now i have to get the 2-4 servo seals changed and put that in. i also need to look through my manual to see what kind of clearances i need for the pin and such. i dont have any kind of dial meter to check travel, the best i have is a set of feeler gauges. but i do have the other spare pin and it is longer than the original, so if i need to i could use that. but yeah, seems like all i have left is the servo and the valve body and pan and bell housing. then comes the task of putting it back in lol.
hey guys, is there any way you could tell me if this bonded separator plate will work for my 1998 4l60e vin type R? i looked on summit racing and it looks like it is for vin type W but i am unsure it if would work for a 5.7L (vin type R). there are people who said it would work in the questions section but i am still not convinced until someone more knowledgeable confirms
EDIT: guess it would help if i posted the link as well lol
looks like the separator plate with part number of 24244047 will indeed fit a 1998-2002 4l60e with vin type R (i think is base models or non-ls models). i looked it up on acdelcos website as well. i am a few bucks short of buying it so i will need a few days to get that. i do not like the idea of using these separator plate inserts that you have to drill out the checkball seat and put in these things with the clips.... it just doesnt seem like a real fix to me and could possibly fall out eventually and i would rather have a new updated bonded plate anyway.
but back on the band clearance/servo pin travel. i have a spare 2-4 servo cover and i think i will knock a hole in the center of it. then i should be able to measure the exact pin travel correct? also @bbond when you say set band clearance to .060 or .070, do you mean to use my feeler gauges and gauge between the reverse drum and band material or are you saying the band clearance IS the servo pin travel? surely the pin travels more than 7 thousandths of an inch? sorry for any confusion
with the servo assembly installed with seals and cover installed without a seal, i bet i get about 1/4" or more of travel by pressing the cover in with my hand. surely this pin is not that short? i have another pin that is a little longer that come from the other parts tranny. i will try that one as well. i am also trying to source a dial gauge so i can get a precise measurement of the pin travel.
if i cut a hole into the spare servo cover i have, i would measure the pin travel by placing the dial gauge directly onto the pin. and i do not want any more than .060 to .070 (or around 1/16th") of travel before i cannot press the pin any further and the band should be fully seated, correct?
ok. here is the travel. .060 + .050 = .110" +/- travel. the way i got this measurement is with the complete servo with seals installed and the cover installed without a seal.
i took a straight ruler and placed it flush on the cover, then stuck feeler gauges in between the ruler and the lip of the case where the servo bore is. i measured .060 here. then i put a bolt back in the hole for the heat shield and stuck my pry bar on the bolt and pressed the servo cover as far as i could (with a bit of force) and then measured .050 in between the ruler and servo cover. so i added the two together and that should give me my overall travel would it not?
i am trying my best to find a dial gauge i can use but so far i havent been able to get my hands on one.... but using my feeler gauges seems to work ok but i am not sure if this is the correct measurements to take. just to reiterate what i did... i measured the gap between the straight edge and the top of the lip on the case where the servo bore is and i got .060. then depressed the servo with force and let the straight edge rest against the lip of the servo bore and measured the gap between the cover and the straight edge which was .050. these added together is .110 give or take a few thousandths. i am doing this alone and there is really no good way to get a picture because both of my hands are occupied. but does this sound like a reliable way measure it? by my calculations, i need a shim that is .050 - .060 thick.
edit: after a little more fiddling (took all the seals out of the servo), the total overall measurement i got with this method... is a travel of about .120". so thats just shy of 1/8". so if i need to get it down to a travel of .060 then i need a shim that is .060 thick
Last edited by james28909; Mar 10, 2022 at 03:23 PM.
ok i had someone come by and help me measure the travel. we didnt have a dial indicator but i was able to get a measurement of just barely bigger than 1/16" of an inch. i measured this 4 or 5 times just to make sure. so i think the servo is good. i took the pump off and watched the pin engage the band and the band held the reverse drum snuggly when engaged. so i am confident that it is good. i did end up swapping the pin for the one from my spare 4l60e. it had 3 rings and the original one had 2 grooves but i think the 2 groove one was worn on the tip because i could see a visible difference in them when stood side by side. but either way i guess i will be finishing this thing in the next day or two and hopefully be getting it back in the truck.
ok. just figured out that the kit i purchased didnt come with the orings for the pump bolts. further more, the pump bolts on my pump had washers on them as well as orings. when i called my parts supplier they told me that the washers were only used on older 700r4 and some early 4l60s and told me that i didnt need those washers.
so i guess the question is, do you guys use washers and orings underneath the pump to case bolts? or is an oring without a washer just fine?
but all i like is torquing these bolts to 18-20 ft lbs once i get the orings, and then put the bell housing on.
If the bolts are made for the o-rings I only use o-rings. If your pump gasket seals, there is no pressure on those o-rings. They just keep fluid from seeping past the bolts.
If the bolts are made for the o-rings I only use o-rings. If your pump gasket seals, there is no pressure on those o-rings. They just keep fluid from seeping past the bolts.
leakage between the pump halves will seep up past the bolts.
So pump gasket or no...you can still have leakage
the o rings need to be used on the proper bolts and they are to be used alone. No washers. No rtv. Etc
well, after going through the gasket kit, i think i found the orings for the bolts, they were stuck inside other orings and i didnt realize it lol. but there are 2 different ones that look like they would work. the thicker oring looks like it was made to set into the groove underneath the bolt head. the other oring seems to look like what had come off there originally. im pretty sure i should just use the regular orings and not the thicker ones, but like always, any help is very much appreciated. dont want to put the wrong oring and have a leak.
hmm but now that i think about it, there are 5 of the thicker orings so i wonder if those should have went on the manifold pressure switch... any one know for certain? bolt and orings for comparison picture of the thicker oring thicker oring put on bolt regular oring put on bolt
I can't tell you what that thicker O-ring is for, but it doesn't go on that bolt. You're going to squash it out and probably tear it when you tighten the bolt down.
ok i have discovered something else as well. everything minus the bell housing is installed. i have not torque speced the pump to case bolts yet but i cant turn the input shaft by hand, and when i use pliers, the output shaft doesnt spin and i now no longer hear the lo and rev clutch support race screeching. but shouldnt i have some kind of motion on the output shaft when i turn the input shaft?
edit: hahaha, i had it in park lol. it was wild because i turned it a little and heard something click inside. must have been park engaging into the park pawl engaging. i shifted it to nutral and it turns as it should and i can hear the lo and rev clutch support inner race screeching nicely. so let me torque the pump bolts down and check end play and then all i got to do is put the bell housing back on! well, and then cuss it back into the truck ofcourse.
edit2: torque down pump bolts and have .018 - .020 end play. measured it 3 times. i am hoping that i will get it back in this week. will update thread with results
Last edited by james28909; Mar 21, 2022 at 01:51 PM.
seems i have another problem that i didnt even realize. the dip stick stop thats bolted onto the valve body (i think) is missing. the other trans i have is missing its dipstick stop too, but it is a shallow pan so it wouldnt have worked. i have a deep pan and am trying to figure out where to make a mark on the dipstick for the proper level when its hot. i have read a few threads and some say to measure from the bottom of the case or something. what i did, and you tell me if this would be ok, i took my '97 4l60e (i already put the pan on the 98 4l60e, whoops) and stuck the tube and dipstick in it (dipstick is in the tube). then took a razor blade and pressed it flat against the bottom of the case and made a little mark on the tube. then i measured from the end of the dipstick to the mark on the tube and it said 2 3/8". so then i took the dipstick out and measured 2 3/8" from the end of the dipstick and made a mark with the corner edge of a file. this mark should be pretty much exactly where the bottom of the case is. my next question is, since i have a deep pan, do i need to add or subtract anything for any reason?
when i put it in the truck, ill jack the back tires up off the ground, then ill pour 5 quarts in and crank it for 4 or 5 secs. then pour 5 more quarts in and crank it up and let it start warming up. about 10 secs after i crank it, ill pour another quart in it and then get in it and go through the gears. once its warm and gears are engaging, ill lower the jack and check the fluid. but i need to know where to mark the dipstick. i marked it but i just want to be sure its right
like i said, the 98 4l60e already has the pan on it. the 97 4l60e does not have the pan on it. i took the dipstick and stuck it in the tube, then put the dipstick and tube in the 97 4l60e. then i took a razor blade and pressed it flat on the bottom of the case and then made a mark on the tube with it. then i took the dipstick and tube out and measured from the end of the dipstick to the mark i made with the razor blade, which was flush with the bottom of the case, and i got 2 3/8". so then i took the dipstick out and measured from the end of the dipstick 2 3/8" and etched a mark with a file. this mark should be very close to the bottom of the case. does that sound like it would be ok?
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