After reading more about the 4L80E early vs late lube circuit differences found in @vorteciroc excellent thread located HERE and reading more about 4L80E early vs late part differences and noting that the early model 4L80E OD planet setup is better than the late model setup, I realized that to further improve the life the transmission that some changes still need to be made to the modifications performed already.

I realize that some of these modifications that have been performed may be viewed by some as being "overkill" for my application, but I figured it's better to error on the side of caution.
The application is a 4th gen fbody turbo 408 LSX that will hopefully see 1200 rwhp and all the supporting mods when it's all said and done. Heavy street car, 3800-4000 race weight. 90% street weekend summer car, hoping to run 8's at the track every now and then.

All the standard items that are replaced on a typical build such as electronics, bushings, bearings, seals, gaskets and various other obvious replacement items will not be mentioned.

Below is what I've done so far and what all needs to be done (highlighted in red)

This is just a list of what was done to the build so that others far more experienced than I can perhaps comment and let me know of any oversights, or if there are any noticeable incompatibilities between parts or an additional modification that I should consider performing that hasn't been listed.

Hard parts – All hard parts are stock from 2005 4L80E core unless specified
-Jakes D3 transbrake (has 2nd gear leave option as well)
-Pump body – Machined stock OE late pump for use with adapter ring for Reid bellhousing fitment onto modified stock case
-Stator – Stock OE, some aftermarket internals, see below
-Input shaft – Replaced with 300m billet
-Overdrive drum –Replace stock late model OE with early 91-00 OD drum
-Overdrive Planet/Planetary Carrier – Replace stock late model OE planet with stronger early 91-00 planet (.309 rollers)
-Clutch housing – Stock OE
-Forward Drum – Stock OE
-Forward Hub – Replaced with Billet Hub with bearing
-Direct Hub – Stock OE (billet aftermarket available)
-Direct Clutch Drum – Replaced with super aluminum drum w/36 sprag from Jakes
-Direct Clutch Pressure Plate – Stock OE (billet aftermarket available)
-Center Support – Use stock OE late model CS that I have but modify it with machined pocket and bearing to rollerize and better stable the direct drum
-Sun Gear shaft – Stock OE (aftermarket press fit are available)
-Sun gear – Modify the stock OE late model sun gear with a 2nd 0.25” long groove. It currently only has one groove cut where the small lube hole once was
-Front planet/Reaction Carrier – Stock OE but modified with machined pocket/bearing to rollerize it
-Rear Planet/Output Carrier – Stock OE
-Main Shaft – Replace stock main shaft with stronger 300m billet early 91-96 hollow shaft, clearance shaft for proper fitment (.060" remove off front)
-Rear Ring Gear – Stock OE
-Output Shaft – Replace stock late model shaft with early 91-96 output shaft that has the lube hole
-Bellhousing – Aftermarket Reid Bellhousing
-Rollerized Output in 2005 case

Modifications performed per instructions that came with Jakes D3 transbrake
(read Jakes instructions if installing Jakes valve body.... don't follow these.. it's only listed here as such to see what mods were performed)
-Drilled a bleed release hole in the direct drum 0.050 - 0.060" (1/16)
-Removed the center seal off the direct drum as part of the dual feed direct mod
-Removed the 2nd ring from the top off of the center support as part of the dual feed direct mod
-Omitted the two seals on the 1-2 accumulator piston (inner piston)
-Drilled "Lube to Line Bypass" in the pump cover 0.093”
-Replaced the OE Boost spring with the one that comes in Jakes D3 brake kit
-Reused stock OE small bumper spring
-Added additional pins to external wiring harness
-Plugged necessary case passage with 5/16 set screw
-Ground sides off EPC solenoid 0.050”, placed in valve body but did not connect to harness
-Installed 4 check ***** per locations as seen in instructions
-Flat sanded servo cover
-0.060” deep/wide slot milled on the portion of the pin that goes into the case bore
-Dialed in correct band clearance in the rear servo. I'm at 0.110" of travel after welding onto the pin.

Additional Lube mods/case mods/hard part mods/notes
-Reverse feed passage in case NOT plugged (due to using Jakes D3)
-Reverse feed passage the center support NOT plugged (due to using Jakes D3)
-Enlarged the feed passage on stator support side of pump with a 0.125” drill bit at 45 deg angle
-Enlarged the seal drain back hole in the pump cover with a 0.250” drill bit (1/4)
-Enlarged the lube hole in the Overrun Clutch housing with a 0.125" drill bit at 45 deg angle
-Enlarged the feed passage on the center support with a 0.125 drill bit (1/8)
-Drill 2-3 more lube holes on the Sonnax billet forward hub (45-Degree Face area)
-Remove the Lube-Pipe from the AFL circuit of the Valve-Body
-Plug the two holes that the Lube-Pipe connect to (one in the Valve-Body, and one in the Case using cup plugs)
-Front band was omitted due to use of aluminum direct drum and replaced with case saver snap ring support (no engine braking in 2nd gear)

Sprags
-Roller clutch overdrive sprag (use early 91-00, late sprag currently being used won't fit)
-Roller clutch low with 8 extended tabs for late 4L80E planet

Pump mods
-Replace OE Boost valve and OE boost sleeve with the 4L80E-LB1 kit
-Use the stock OE PR valve, as "Lube to Line Bypass" in the pump cover was drilled
-Install Extreme automatics pump saver plate - EA80PS
-Perform pump lube mod (put a pocket between the Outer Pump-Gear and the Pump Casting)
-Sonnax O-ring pump end plugs

Direct Clutch Setup
6x Direct clutch frictions Borg High Energy 0.080”
6x Direct clutch steels 0.090”
No wave plate
TH400 early Aluminum piston
TH400 Direct clutch spring retainer, springs, and snap ring
FTI hi-rate springs in Direct clutch piston, only 8 used - F4067
TH400 early aluminum piston shaved for clearance
Stock late 4L80E direct clutch pressure plate (HD options are available)
Clutch pack clearance is 0.040"

Forward Clutch Setup
5x Direct clutch frictions Borg High Energy - 0.080”
5x Forward clutch steels - 0.077”
Late 4L80E wave plate
Piston - Late 4L80E bonded 97+
Forward pressure plate – Used stock core (HD options are available)
Forward spring retainer/springs – used stock core
Clutch pack clearance is 0.050"

Intermediate Clutch Setup
5x Ford c6 grooved frictions that came with Jakes 36 drum
5x steels that came with Jakes 36 drum
Late model 4L80E center support
Late model 4L80E intermediate wave rests on top of the center support
TH400 Intermediate Clutch Return Springs (12)
TH400 Intermediate retainer
Pressure plate that came with Jakes 36 drum, comes modified to fit extra friction
Snap Ring – replaced OEM with - 0.106 snap ring from a 727
Clutch pack clearance is 0.050"

Overrun Clutch Setup
Piston – Late bonded 97+
3x Borg Overrun clutch frictions .080”
3x Overrun turbulator steels - 0.099”
Use an early 91-00 Overrun Clutch Return Retainer/springs/snap ring setup for proper use with the early OD drum setup
Clutch pack clearance is 0.055"

Overdrive Clutch Setup
4x Overdrive Borg Frictions .080”
4x Overdrive turbulator steels 0.099”
Clutch pack clearance is 0.055"

Current Endplay measurements
Front endplay .011"
Rear endplay .005"
Center support to rear reaction carrier float .010" (rollerized reaction carrier)
Forward hub to direct drum 0.000" (due to billet rollerized forward hub)

 

Sonnax overrun clutch valve kit waste of time I'm assuming on this application as I only plan to beat on it in D3?
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/4496-sm...utch-valve-kit

So to summarize the mods performed/will be performed

Aluminum Direct Drum
36 Intermediate Super Sprag
300M Input Shaft
300M Main Shaft
Stock Forward Pressure Plate
Billet Intermediate Pressure Plate
Stock Direct pressure plate
Early Overdrive Planet conversion
Early lube circuit conversion
Billet 4340 Forward Clutch Hub
High Performance Frictions
Pump Pressure and lube Mods
Harden Pump Wear plate
Billet Aluminum Direct Piston
Stock Forward piston
6 Clutch Direct
5 Clutch Forward
5 Clutch Intermediate
Dual Fed 3rd Gear
Jakes D3 Brake
New Low and Overrun Sprags
Fully Rollerized
New Electronics

No billet forward or direct pressure plates, no billet OD planet, no billet forward piston, 300m shafts rather than Aermet, no oversized center support, no billet reverse servo, no press fit sun gear shaft, regular (non torlon) check *****, and stock pump gear set.

 

Hi Dino, sorry I havent emailed you, yes that list looks to build a pretty killer unit. Just make sure your thrust clearances are adjusted for the torrington bearings and your clutch end play specs are good.

 

Sounds good! Thanks for looking it over!

 

LB1 spring sucks
use the valve but not the spring

6 clutches at .040 is too tight imo
for your hp and line pressure, 6 frictions is overkill anyway
I'd run all 16 stiff springs, 5 frictions, and more like .060 clearance with those 5 frictions. run thick steel plates.
I see no mention of a centrifugal bleed hole in the direct drum. You had better add that.

Not sure what type of racing you'll be doing but your intermediate clutch setup is VERY agressive.
it will hold lots of power no problem, but if you find the 1-2 shift unsettling the chassis, you may need to revise your setup and orifice sizing also

for the fwd clutch...if you are going to use a wave...use the th400 style thick wave.
The late 80e waves are really thin and can get stuck under the "cleanout groove" and cause issue.
Or they crack.
Be cautious.

the swap to all the early OD sprag stuff is fine...but it really wasn't necessary at all IMO

 

not to hijack, but when is the early OD sprag stuff necessary? I have 2 early cores that should have it. is this something I should save if planning on building more units? the 2 cores are slated for "warmed up" but other wise stock work trucks, one being a 1 ton dump truck.

 

if you are using the "d3" shifter position to race or beat on it...I'd fully expect you to rip the splines out of the OD carrier before you have issue with the roller

the early unit IS stronger. No question. But as far as when it is NECESSARY to swap...I haven't seen too many examples yet as long as the driver is properly using D3 position

 

Thanks again for going through this line by line.

-Yes the LB1 spring is gone and replaced with Jakes spring. Only using the LB1 boost valve LB1 sleeve, and a stock PR valve.

-Can switch to the 5 friction setup and target .060"

-I forgot to post the FTI spring specs, they are 0.480x0.072x1.250, 8.9 total coils, ends closed and ground with calc spring rate of 82.4344 lbs/inch.

-Under the Jakes D3 brake instructions I have "Drilled a bleed release hole in the direct drum 0.050 - 0.060" (1/16)" Probably should have listed that under the other section.

-I have a feeling that 1-2 shift is going to hit too hard also. The intermediate ford c6 clutch setup is what came with aluminum 36 super drum and I think those are the only clutches that fit that sprag race. So drop the # of clutches down to 4 instead of 5?

-I'll have to check the size of the 2nd clutch orifice on the plate that came with Jakes D3. I'm assuming the hole is the same size as stock. You had recommended that usually 5/64" (.078) is fine for lighter cars or lower power units for 2nd gear. In the event that the 1-2 shift hits way to hard, what size would you recommend modifying that 2nd clutch hole to? That's the only hole in the valve body plate would need changed, correct?

-I thought it was the early 4L80E "Bellville" Forward wave plates that would break and that the 4L80E late wave plates hold up well? I didn't think about it getting stuck with a rubber piston in there. Since they can't be ran against a friction like the TH400 wave plate, that will free up some space. 12 lug .060 TH400 wave in there it is!

Thoughts on the early 64-66' TH400 sprag type reaction carriers?

 

the bellville springs, the waves with only 2 tabs, and the late (super thin) waves are all suspect in my book and I don't use any of them in high performance units
Early th400 style THICK waves are the go-to.
A Stock or lower power unit may get a late 80e style that is a bit thinner than th400 but thicker than the paper thin option some cores got.

2nd will be fine with 5 clutches, orifice to desired feel.
Did you order 1st gear leave D3 from jake or 1+2 leave?

 

Thick wave it is! Thanks again!

It has the 1+2 gear leave option. I'll be shifting at 7000-7100 at the track, hence the aluminum drum.

 

if you have the 1-2 leave option, keep the orifice for 2nd feed small
.078 would be a safe start. Can go larger if you feel it's lazy...but with 5 frictions I doubt it will be lazy

 

I believe the grooved c6 frictions 36106S1 is what I have in the intermediate now. I was thinking of replacing these with either the smooth Raybestos 36106E for a less harsh 1-2 shift. Thoughts?

Also with the center support being taken out to have a pocket machined and a bearing put in for improving stability on the direct drum, as I understand you can tighten the reaction carrier float by a few thousandths of an inch when rollerizing, but the thrust at the front of the carrier still needs a little breathing room around .004" to .006" As the direct drum is going to be lifted off the sun gear shaft with a bearing, that's going to tighten my front unit endplay so I'll need to adjust to get back down to .005-.008" more than the rear unit endplay. Fun stuff!

What about tack welding the pinion gear pins in place so they can not rotate or move out of position depth wise?

 

don't bother welding the pins
you can rollerize the reaction carrier if you wish, you can also use a thicker thrust washer there.
The whole idea is to not allow the reaction carrier to "rock" or get pulled at an angle when the band wraps it on the transbrake.
the bushing will keep it on center, but the clearance in the bushing lets it rock.
take up the carrier float and it no longer can rock.

don't bother with the frictions.
Run what they sent ya. Keep the orifice on the smaller side. It will be JUST fine

 

Excellent! Thanks again. Reaction carrier has been rollerized, just need to do the center support.

 

I have the super drum with 5 clutches on the intermediate and I cracked the custom pressure plate. Not sure how but thats how I found it after a pump failure. Now the issue is how to get/find one. Or to just run 4 of the c6 frictions with an early style (lip) pressure plate. The custom pressure plate measures in at 0.293

 

Here ya go: http://www.coanracing.com/coa-22818b...l-lug-290.html
That one should measure at 0.290

They make another one COA-102818 which measures at 0.240 thickness which I believe is correct for the 5 clutch 5 friction setup.
http://www.coanracing.com/catalog/pr...4l80e-5-cl-c6/

 

Wow thank you, I've been going nuts trying to find it. Should have looked in the th400 section. Wish they would add the measurements on the description.

Any chance you know what this ones measures as well?

http://www.coanracing.com/coa-22818c...l-5200-id.html

Seems like it could be that one or the one you say is .290

 

What is the inner diameter of the broken one you have?

The COA-22818C I believe is for the early super drum design that is a larger ID ? (should also be 0.290" in thickness), the one you have is I think 5.090 ID which is the COA-22818B. I'd get the inner diameter measurement and verify with COAN on the part number. I was told by COAN awhile back that 102818 should measure in at 0.240 which conflicts with your measurement. I was told that 102818 is the one designed to make it so you can run a 5 clutch intermediate setup with 5 of the 0.063 steels and 5 of the 0.077 clutches.

 

wow I havent seen a plate fail like that. make sure your case isnt jacked. maybe also put a .106 snap ring in there (might have to deck it a bit, depends on the case)

also might consider a "case saver" I think Jake has one that allows you to keep the 2-1 engine braking band.

 

I re-measured and your right its at 0.290 thickness.
and the ID measuremeasured 5.090 ID. Thanks for your help. I'll measure the steels and clutches next.