Hey guys, I was wondering if i could possibly get some input/advice on my 2002 4L60E rebuild im going to be doing. i lost 3rd/4th a couple days ago and have been looking into rebuilding it myself. i have no worries about doing it but what i am worried about is what parts to use on my transmission since im not trying to race it or tow with it. i only plan on cruising it and taking it out long trips. i know there are upgrades for the 4l60e that make a huge difference but on some of them i wonder if they are completely necessary. heres a list i have so far

using https://www.wittrans.com

74006EB Rebuild kit

A74030EK Bonded Pistons

A74030 Bushing Kit

N74020AHP Band

im not trying to be cheap/ do the bare minimum but im definitely not taking my car to the drag strip nor do i ever plan on racing it so just trying to get whatever you guys think i would need or possible upgrades that are worth me doing.

thank you.

 

The most important part of the rebuild is sealing up all of the hydraulic leaks in the valve body and the 3/4 clutch circuit.

I would add this to your parts list.
Use 6 Warner High Energy 3/4 clutches.
TransGo Jr. Shift Kit. I know a lot of you will say it's not needed, but I like to use it.
TransGo NOYOYO kit with hardened steel pump rings.
Sonnax 77787-02K Extra Long Servo Pin
Sonnax 77964-08K O-Ring end plugs.
If your trans has a plastic 1-2 accumulator piston you will need to replace that with an aluminum one.

You can block the 3-2 Down Shift valve and 3-2 control valve inboard
Block the 4th accumulator.

 

I, personally, have had the best service out of this 3-4 setup:

7 - .080" Borg Warner high-energy frictions
6 - .076" 700R4 steels (standard)
New OEM .193" backing plate
New OEM .224" apply plate
Stock .093" snap ring

As was stated above, pay very careful attention to the hydraulics for the 3-4 clutch, which are more complex than it might appear.

 

It's better to use thicker steels with thinner clutches.
This is one of the best knowledge our enthusiasts here shared.

 

Thank you guys for everything. I’m getting the parts ordered and I’ll keep posting my progress. Thank you again

 

Excellent advice.
If you just want to save money/time and skip the specific frictions and steels, I always recommend a 4L65e rebuilt kit as the only difference will be that it has 7 frictions and 6 steels.
The thick OEM .224 apply plate is important for stabilizing the entire assembly.
Add the Sonnax .490 boost valve - old style or new style depending upon your year.

 

I have been unable to find a video or specific instructions which explains exactly how to do this. Is this related to locking the TCC from moving? Should this be done as well? I have a 2000 4L60E.

 

Block the 3-2 Down Shift (#389) and 3-2 control (#391) valve inboard. 3-2 solenoid (which if you're blocking the valve....doesn't matter now. for the 3-2 downshift, take the spring out, and place it INSIDE of the AFL spring. You're just leaving it in the bore to seal the bore and you're just plugging it in so the computer won't get pissed off) ​

 

What is the benefit of making this modification? Also, what is the effect to the 3-2 shift (feel, speed, other)? thanks

Edit: found an answer
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20256957

 

I would always absolutely replace the input sprag and use a corvette servo even in a stockish build . Also I would use one of the various fixes for the PWM converter regulator valve . Any will do the job For a stock type build I would use one the simplest drop in fixes.

 

Here is my go to list of parts. I buy the frictions separately because I found that I save $5-$6 and still get the 7 frictions. GPZ's are not required for a stock build, Raybestos HE or Borg/Warner HE frictions will work very well. Steels plates I replace as needed, usually the 3-4's & Fwd.'s. I just had a refresh on an 8 year old unit because the converter started to whine. The clutch's and band looked like I just tore it back apart because i forgot a washer or snap ring. I was impressed by how clean it was...

· Overhaul kit
· Allomatic or Raybestos Filter
· Raybestos Kevlar or Borg/Warner HE 2-4 band
· Complete friction kit w/7 Raybestos GPZ 105 or Borg/Warner HE 4L65E 3-4 frictions/ 6 .095 3-4 steels
o 4 B/W Reverse input
o 5 B/W Forward’s
o 2 B/W Overruns
o 5 B/W Low/Reverse
· Essential bushing kit, with wide or Teflon bushings where applicable
· Oversized pressure regulator valve
· New EPC solenoid
· New Shift solenoids
· B/W 29 element dual cage input sprag
· B/W 4L65E Low roller element
· Hardened reaction sun shell
· Corvette servo
· Long servo pin
· .500 boost valve
· Sealed Power Hardened pump rings
· TransGo shift kit
· 1-2, 3-4 & forward aluminum accumulator pistons

 

My thoughts on a minimum expense stock build.-

Master kits brand not important but with frictions and steels.

Replace the molded pistons if they are hard.

Band always and make sure your reverse input drum is straight if not replace it also , I like the raybestos band

Bushing as needed and if you have the right tools if you don't probably be worse off than if you didn't. Always pump and case bushing along with tail housing and if any wear at input shaft where bushing rides replace bushing with TH350 front stator bushing (WIDER to accomodate for the wear) These are generally the ones included in a master kit like you can get from rock auto. (BTW the PIONEER kits from rockauto are actually nice all carbon frictions in kit)

Personally, I would replace all the solenoids and PCS and check function and replace orings on the pressure switch (before and after testing)

Input sprag a must. Make sure races are smooth.

Air test input drum for leaks around shaft this is best done before taking drum apart and then again after clean and build.

Inspect and replace rings and wafers in pump also check for wear in center of gear from converter hub if not smooth replace that too and of course all seals and screen. Check the inside of stator very carefully for grooves where the rings ride (any is too much)

Use one of the various simple drop in Converter regulator valve fixes.

Of course inspect and replace any hard parts and always the sunshell IMO. Check rear planet gears really good for wobble they tend to be most likely to wear.

Use corvette servo this will firm up 2nd and 3rd.

Replace boost valve.

Make sure encapsulated check ball in case at 3rd accum seals.

Replace all accumulator pistons and seals though you can eliminate the 4th accumulator by blocking the passage but if you do leave the piston out so torque signal oil can lube rear planet. Normallyy it only lubes with 4th gear oil but will then lube all the time which is fine. (You will never get to firm a 4th gear)

Replace the valve body plate you can get them new on amazon as low as 11 dollars just shop a bit GM/AC DELCO.,

I don't think I missed anything. Bearing in mind this is for a bone stock overhaul rebuild while not having all the special tools and gadgets at min budget and still do a decent build. Of course, everyone will have their own opinion of must do and this and that. But this is my idea of a budget stockish build that should live a good long time in a stock ish car or truck driven in a relatively normal grocery getter manor .
Many other little freebie mods you can do that others have listed. Im always hesitant to mention them fearing they will be misunderstood or messed up .

Anyway my 2 cents for what it'sworth Stilll will not be real cheap but reasonable.

Oh yes don't forget to put the filter on. You would be suprised how often that actually happens even when people just changing fluid and "filter"