4l60e in my 99 Z28 .. with a Lq4 , heads , cam , etc all bolt ons .. transmission are not lasting .. I’ve had the car 10 yrs and put l5 transmission in it .. all from the same shop ,. Very reputable, and very familiar with these cars. The same shop built the car. After this last build having issues few thousand miles in. I’m considering a 4l80e. I don’t beat on it or take it to the track.. How many miles are you guys getting out of a well built 4l60 e with a 3400 stall? I think my best been 30k miles

 

I think you need to find a new shop, then. Over the years, I've seen ****-TONS of "very reputable" shops turn out shitty work. I don't understand how they do it and make the money that they do.

Based on your engine combo, you should be able to get at least - AT LEAST - 100K out of a decently built 4l60. And that's with mostly stock parts, and addressing any internal hydraulic leaks.

Can you give us any details about the parts and methods this "reputable shop" uses?

EDIT: Have they just been rebuilding the same transmission over and over again, or are they using different cores each time?

Also, how much are they charging for these rebuilds? What kind of warranty are they offering? Exactly how are they failing?

Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Sounds like they are familiar with those cars cause they are rebuilding their transmissions every 30k miles lol

Sorry I had to.....

 

https://www.youtube.com/c/PrecisionTransmission

As it turns out, most transmission shops are full of jokers.

 

Its interesting how the original factory 4L60E generally lasts over 100,000 and then rebuilds from "reputable" shops often last less than 20,000 miles. The reason is obvious - they are taking shortcuts to reach a low price point.
IIRC one pro builder here made various checks on failed 4L60E that came to his shop after another shop had "recently" rebuilt them. For starters he found that over half of them had serious leaks between in the input shaft and the input drum. And numerous other problems that had not "recently" occurred but should have been detected and fixed during the rebuild. I suspect many shops hire novice mechanics, show them the basics and then pay by the job. Do you think these mechanics are going to spend 4 hours rebuilding and testing just the valve body when they might only get $150 for the entire rebuild?

 

Once some mileage has been racked up...
There are just so many possible points in this Unit where Circuit leaks can occur.

I feel that many shops are rebuilding these and missing LEAKS!

My Business does not take in Transmission rebuilds, unless it is work that is part of a Power-Train build/ project for a Customer Vehicle...
But I have taken in many Transmissions as a favor for a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend of a friend..............
And I always find LEAKS!

Even now, many shops do not perform any Vacuum Testing...
And/ or are not accustomed to the sheer amount of leaks that these damn things have!

**** is ridiculous!

 

There is always going to be 'Lost Time" on these rebuilds...
Not charging for all the time spent to Actually QC a Unit, has to be done to ensure the livelihood of the Business.

We all try to minimize the amount of time lost by being as efficient as possible, and following the procedures that you have deemed to be optimal.
But when it comes down to it, QC can not be sacrificed for $$$...
Or it will get you on the back end, and cost you triple what you would have lost to do the right thing the first time.

 

I to feel your pain here. I do work as favor for a friend that most could not pay me to do.

 

This last few builds he gave me a break because of the quick failures. One transmission was bought , 2 were “ rebuilt “ one he said he bought off line , that one only lasted 30k miles,This last time with a new stall I think it around $1500 ..

This last tyranny rebuild been back 4 times .. cracked case , Intermittently stops shifting , getting a P7057 .. gets suck in 3rd gear .. or sometimes won’t shift out of second gear .. I’d be HAPPY to get 100k miles .. he’ll 70k miles … all other failures were no shift to 3rd .. then all gears slipped

Any online seller recommendation? Or any know a good shop Tucson, PHX area ?

 

LMAO .. makes sense !

 

Sayin !

 

I used that guys videos in post #4 to rebuild my own 4l60e and I drove the crap out of it for about 2 years before selling it. MANY drag strip and WOT street pulls.

 

Amazing .. and I assume you’re not a full time mechanic? I’ll send that link to the shop that can get mine to last lol .

 

It often seems that the guys who rebuild their own transmissions, even as their first time, end up with better results than buying a cheap rebuild. That's the result of giving a damn and taking your time.
Congrats to all the guys (and gals?) who took the plunge to rebuild their first transmission and ended up learning a lot and having a great result to show for their effort.

 

I randomly get a PO757 . Goes several hundred miles before an episode. Fluid , filter and shift solenoids changed , same result . Stick in 3rd or no shift from 2nd to 3rd. Mechanic said it’s something electrical and not the transmission. What do you experienced ones suggest?

 

There is no need to guess about this - connect a good scanner and observe what the PCM/TCU is commanding. If the trans does not follow the commands, it is most likely a shift solenoid or a sticky/leaking valve in the valve body.
With a P0757 I would inspect the harness in the trans and likely replace both shift solenoid with top quality OEM unit. (AC Delco?)

 

Thank you! It doesn’t do it frequently enough to verify on the scanner is what mechanic says.. PO757

 

Then I suggest installing at least one new shift solenoid. While there, carefully examine the internal harness to look for exposed wires which could cause an intermittent (infrequent) shorting. If exposed wires touch the metal case/valvebody it could activate the solenoid and/or cause that code. The code likely can also be caused if the PCM/TCM detects RPM and Speed combinations which indicate the solenoid is stuck on. This could be the solenoid itself, or a stuck valve in the valve body.

 

I have had Units require that P0757 be removed via ReProgramming depending on The TC Stall Speed and Gearing.
Most of the time it is erroneous from incorrect Tuning/ wrong Gear Ratio in the Tune.
I recommend having this done if you have a higher High-Stall Speed TC.

 

Thank you !