Hello..it's me again lol

I'm having a super tight forward clearance
Pressure plate :.227"
​​​​​steels:.088"
apply plate: 169"
snap ring: .125"
Clutches: .069"
using wavy steel, 5 frictions 5 steels

Clearance dry between plate and snap ring .030" and that's super super tight feeler barely wants to go in. Read clearance should be around .030-.063 but im assuming thats wet clearance. My clearance would drop to .025 or so no?

also,
I checked my input shaft end play like tranzman suggested and its at .070", seems excessive no?
I installed the input drum, no 3/4 clutches, no reverse input drum, installed the selective washer behind stator/pump, installed selective washer (68) and bearing on the input drum, installed the old pump gasket. If I did it correctly, then that means I need a (74) selective washer to bring endplay down to about .030".

Does any of this seem normal? I would expect to just throw in steels and frictions and should be good on a working 60e with fried 3-4 clutches.

I air checked all the apply pistons and they all hold pressure and apply fine (just in case i messed up during install causing my tight forward clearance)


Also using 2 overrun steels and 2 overrun frictions

Any help would be appreciated, before I go buy a 74 selective washer and a thinner pressure plate


I inserted the bearing like this. Just in case if that's the issue.


Edit: used a dial indicator, seems like i have less clearance than i measured w the feeler.

Here's video
https://youtube.com/shorts/5gMZu1RQUOQ?feature=share

 

Narrowed down the forward issue to the 7cs spring kit from trans go.

Installed a stock setup without the yellow springs and clearance came back. Need to figure out what i am doing wrong.

 

There's no way for that spring kit to make the clearance too tight. When properly installed.

 

When checking clearance are you adding the bearing at the end of the input drum?

 

I think the hooks were interfering, i cut them off on both sides and clearance is now 40 thou, it also seemed to help to apply the forward piston a couple of times, clearance ended increasing the more times I applied the piston
Slowly building experience

And when checking the endplay i assume you sre referring to the bearing i put a picture of? The one that rides on top of the selective washer? If so yes I installed

 

No, the one under the sprag. Bearing # 232.

 

yep that one's installed as well

 

0.0300" Forward Clutch Clearance is perfectly fine.
This Clutch is always applied (unless in Reverse).

The Front End-Play and the Forward Clutch Clearance are two separate things/ measurements.

 

Thank you and yes I understand
trying to figure out why I have so much clearance
should've checked it before I disassembled. OH well, I'll know to do that next time. I'll take the lower half apart and check if I'm missing something, don't have extra Thrust bearings or washers laying around so kind of confused

 

Took apart the lower section of the trans to see if missed a Thrust bearing or Thrust Washer. It's all there. I just don't know why I have so much end play on the inputshaft. I'll keep fiddling with it.

Low reverse piston

Planet



This washer locks in the roller clutch hub deal


Reactor shaft i think is called


Hoping for someone to see anything odd

 

I'm thinking maybe the pump didn't seat all the way. Gona try again. Lol.

 

are you checking end play with the trans laying on the bench or standing up?

 

Standing up, it's on an engine stand. Vertically checking, it is NOT on its side

 

did you install new bushings? i assemble the parts with new bushings and give them a few whacks with the dead blow to make sure the bushings arent hanging up.

 

I haven't installed new bushings on the stator (?) But I did put a new one on where the converter rides on, I assume pump bushing is called.
thanks for giving me ideas, still haven't figured it out as I've been dyno tuning alot of cars recently haven't had time

 

Is there a reason this is being assembled dirty? In some of those pictures I can see enough black grime and grit to leave fingerprints in...but it has new red grease/trans gel on it to hold a bearing.

If the parts aren't getting clean, how do we know anything else is being done right?

Aside from that, this is a floating geartrain. No true center support like a th400 or 4l80e or 5r55 or any number of other units. This is like a powerglide or th350 or c6 etc that has the input supported in the pump, the output supported in the case, and the 2 of them connected in the middle by a bushing.

This means the whole geartrain floats together. So you need to make sure all thrust bearings/washers are in good condition, their shoulders/lips are in the correct orientation, and if you end up needing a thicker spacer...there's a reason it's made. Some units just need more spacer.
Cheers

 

Hey maroon, thanks for the info. I assume the bearing that connects output and input is the bearing that goes on the 3/4 input drum by the sprag?

The unit is clean or as clean as I can get it, I just recently took it apart again (sorta frustrated) with dirty hands after doing an engine swap, and for some reason the assembly gel gets dark really quick with the slightest hint of crap in my hands. I did wipe everything clean again, cleaned my hands as well as I could and reapplied fresh trans gel.

I just can't tell what bearing it would be, is there a reference page on the thickness of each bearing?
I posted the picture of all the bearings and the orientation, I assume they're correct as no one has said otherwise.

I took a video of the amount of play in the output. Is this normal? Seems excessive to me but, first trans I assemble.

 

Looks excessive to me. This may help
https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resource...embly-problems

 

Thanks tranzman. Will check it out.

Seems like I found an issue. Whoever rebuilt this thing is using an 07+ input shaft. Got a 99-04 stator/pump. Weird.
doubt it'll fix my endplay but just thought id mention it.




Gna swap the shaft out. Guess that's what I get working on an 05 trans lol.

 

That's a good catch, that would have caused other issues. You're right, I don't think it will change the clearance issue. 05 units shouldn't have had the ISS input in it from the factory. It may get the change made to the pump cover. I've never seen a virgin 05 with an ISS shaft.
This article should help in that department.
If you do press it apart don't forget to support it around the actual hub. no support is a sure way to cause it to break or shatter later. I use green loc-tite to reassemble them. When pressing out I support the aluminum drum with a #73 selective and a 4L60E converter hub I bought off of eBay. To press it in I support the drum with a stack of three bushing drivers.