2-1 Downshift Clunk
Car does have a UMI tq arm and relocation crossmember, but the clunk was there with the stock stuff in there too, it's just more noticeable now, to the point it's actually annoying.
As for the 2-3 Shift valves, it's a Performabuilt Level 2 unit, Not sure what all they have done besides what's listed in the description of it. Nothing about a HD 2-3 valve, but it very well could have one.
As for the 2-3 Shift valves, it's a Performabuilt Level 2 unit, Not sure what all they have done besides what's listed in the description of it. Nothing about a HD 2-3 valve, but it very well could have one.
As for the 2-3 Shift valves, it's a Performabuilt Level 2 unit, Not sure what all they have done besides what's listed in the description of it. Nothing about a HD 2-3 valve, but it very well could have one.
Because it is a @performabuilt unit maybe we can get him to chime in on this one...
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Car does have a UMI tq arm and relocation crossmember, but the clunk was there with the stock stuff in there too, it's just more noticeable now, to the point it's actually annoying.
Is this on a Manual Down-Shift (Gear Selector moved into D1 Position)?
What had you just done and can it be duplicated?
Did you full throttle it and coast back down to a stop light?
Is it only after a full warm up and a long highway drive?
Is it only after having Manual shifting it?
I think you see where I'm going.
Might want to put a pressure gauge on it and see what pressure it has when it happens. Could be that pressure is not coming back to under 100psi as you coast down to a stop.
The good news... it has done this for about 30,000 miles including some beatings and it has never gotten worse and I don't even notice it anymore.... lol. I've chalked it up to some drive train slack and considered it harmless.
The good news... it has done this for about 30,000 miles including some beatings and it has never gotten worse and I don't even notice it anymore.... lol. I've chalked it up to some drive train slack and considered it harmless.
The Mod itself in fact gives you a much stronger transmission but in some cars and trucks depending on gearing and tune setting can be a little annoying but then performance trans are generally not built with comfort as a high priority..
I had stated since I am no longer at the company I would not do tech support but there is nothing wrong with the trans its part of the build.
Things you can do to make it more tolerable/
1-max out the duty cycle of the 3-2 solenoid
2- Lower the speed at which the coast 3-2 downshift happens but not lower than the 2-1 unless you lower it too.
3- Make sure the line drops to idle line when coasting should be 60 to 80 psi. This would have to be verified with a gage and ajusted in tune.
4-Make sure converter is unlocking during coast if not this will amplify the feeling several times over.
Otherwise, it is the nature of the build and I use it in all mine also its a major reason these units went from being limited to 800 or so max RWHP to 1000 plus with the right hard parts.
I do not know who came up with it first but have learned that several others have but using different methods than my own but it has become a standard in high power handling units for many. And is necessary if you want the sprag to long term stand up to the abuse of high powered car and trucks in performance applications.
Asking a High performance transmission to feel and act like a stock one and survive is simply not something that can be done.
NOTE YOU CAN FIND MORE INDEPTH DISCUSSION OF THE MOD FROM MYSELF AND OTHERS HERE https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...tch-4l60e.html
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook

Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Oct 30, 2023 at 02:24 PM.












