please point me to a picture where the pcs/epc set screw is clearly visible. torx, right? (i had it bookmarked but cant find it now.)

im going to flush the fluid and would like to give the screw a 1/6 turn for good measure. im not doing this at home and want to avoid turning something else when in a hurry.

pan and valvebody bolts are 9/8 lbft, right?

 

There is literally only one screw (yes torx) on the end of the EPC
Google 4l60 epc screw...https://bnbgears.com/cdn/shop/produc...g?v=1662863058
why do you want to adjust it?
This is typically a last resort adjustment

yes, 9 ft-lbs aka 106 in-lbs for the pan and vb bolts.

 

i still didnt find a good pictue of the valvebody, but upon further investigation the screw will be on the black solenoid with male spades and a white connector on it, right?

(im wanting to make sure the torque signal pressure is not below 115 psi max, and a bit higher cannot hurt. my understanding is a 1/4 turn will raise pressure by roughly 5%.)

 

A. how are you measuring this torque signal pressure?
B. what is your intention with modifying this part. What are you hoping to achieve

 

I too and curious how you are measuring torque signal presure ? On occassion I have used the PCS ajustment screw to slightly raise or lower the max and min line presure when they were a little high or low. But that is about it.
In the old days when tuning was not much of the thing this method was used to raise overall line by turning clockwise a 1/4 turn but now days with tuning not really something you need or want to do.
The Only way I know top measure torque signal oil would be to drill a hole through the case into the passage which I dont suggest unless you actualy maing a case just to do various test with.
As was ask what is your actual goal?

 

i didnt want to start a discussion about this. turning the screw by 1/6 will not hurt, there are enough recommendations (even on here) to do it. im not measuring anything for the time being, as i cant get a sensor in the trans without taking off the exhaust.

how is the acces to the screw? doesnt look too good on pictures.

(as i said i will not be doing this myself as i dont have a lift. they will make an exeption and let me into the shop for a couple of minutes to turn the screw and it would be a shame if i dont have the right tool in my pocket. thats how it is around here.)

 

YES!!!

Finally someone else who Admits to having a Frankenstein's Monster of a Test Transmission/ Transmissions!

I started out years ago, first with a 4L80E Case/ Assembly, mounted on a stand with Test Ports drilled in to all different Circuits to examine Pressures and Flow (Lexan covers and blocks used to both see and be able to Drill/Tap into a Circuit).
Positioned to make easy Valve-Body and Pump Valve-Train Changes... and observe changes from Sealing-plugs, Repair Valve-Train, and Experimental Valve-Train/ Circuits.

Note: In most situations, use of a sheet of block of Lexan is unnecessary...
But if you do want to do so, avoid Plexiglass/ acrylic as it cracks/ breaks much more easily from drilling and tapping.


OMG! So Much Fun and potential for Circuit Information and Testing.

I have got 4L60E, THM400, THM200-4R, and THM700-R4 Units all set up as Testing Units!


Doing these Frankenstein's Monster of Test Transmissions has been an unreplaceable/ extremely valuable Set of Tools to use when designing Circuit Modifications.

 

@Dian if you're not going to say why you're wanting do to this...we can't really give much more help
You know where the screw is located...you apparently already know you want to adjust it.
Not sure what more you want for help

 

bent torx key works well or remove the 2nd acum and just use a bit. . MAKE SURE to hold outter ring stationary . pair of snap ring pliers works well

 

Two of the most experienced performance builders here are telling you not to bother, but you seem determine to do so anyway, without even knowing what your line pressure is.
From your other posts, it appears you are building a turbo car. This will require a well-build 4L60E; just turning that screw isn't going to do much of anything good.
So why not tell us what year your trans is and how many miles are on it. Has it ever been rebuilt?
If this is e.g. a 1999 with 180,000 miles, your turbo will trash it quickly, perhaps even the first time you go WOT. Performance rebuild kits are available and could be shipped to Switzerland for a decent mechanic to use during a rebuild.

 

frank, thank you so much. i had no clue you have to hold the plate with the two holes in it. (i wonder how many guys do this wrong.) i will have an angled torx wrench ready and will also take a bit and a spanner as a back up. it looks like a two man job.

just in case, does the 1-2 housing come off with no problems? no funny springs jumping around and no torn gaskets?

(for all the other guys: while i have been messing with engines for decades i have never seen a 4l60e valve body in real life. the trans has been holding up behing a ls1 and 16-17 psi of boost for 7 years now. i decided to flush it with contemporary fluid and turning that screw is the only thing i can do while its being done. when it gives up the ghost ill replace it with a trans buit for the task. nobody will touch these transmissions over here, not even install a shift kit.)

 

It comes off easily but gasket tearing is a possibility, Of course if you have 4l60e valve body gasket around easy to cut replacement or you can cut one out of gasket paper with razer blade, I have done this when experimenting with different spring in accumulator for various shift firmness.

 

Uh, you could always do the "Ultimate Pan Drop Mods," as we call them on here. Search for it.

The best part about that is that even if the transmission grenades or gets rebuilt later, all of the parts can be transferred to the new one.

 

thanks, frank, you have been a big help.

 

You should be able to also use a Separator-Plate saver and Gasket if experimenting with different 2nd-Accumulator Configurations:

 

sorry, i dont understand what you are saying about these gaskets.

here are two links, that show the epc/pcs and might help someone in the same situation:

https://cpt4l60e.com/4l60e-valve-body-identification/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFNElaoSbT8

no idea whats happening with the youtube link. il try later.