Hello everyone, welcome to my build thread. The purpose of this thread is to document my journey in adapting a 2-piece (2000 unit year) case 4l60E from an LS motor to a SBC 350, which has been stroked to a 383. Hopefully this will help someone doing this same setup avoid any major mistakes. First off, the engine is a '70 block out of a truck, unknown origin. It's a 2-bolt rear main, which mean the flexplate that comes with the adapter kit I'm using (GM #19154766) WILL NOT work. You need a flat plate, such as TCI 399273, to make this work. The reason for this adapter is that the 300mm input shaft setup for the LS motors makes the bellhousing longer, AND the crank flange from the two-piece rear main setup is too long. If you bolt it up without the plate, you will destroy both engine and transmission! There are other adapter kits out there but honestly the GM Performance part has been by far the nicest looking one. Having to purchase the correct flexplate (Or having the correct one already, in my case) is an acceptable downside to me. I'm expecting a peak of 700 engine HP, but it will probably fall short of that, and that's fine for me. This is a Daily Driver with occasional Drag days. I'm going for durability, not maximum performance.

On to the transmission: This unit is from a 4.3L Trailblazer that originally was 4WD with the 298mm input shaft. For the experts reading this, chime in if I get anything wrong, as I want people to get this right the first time (myself included). Here's what I did to make this a 2WD: I work at a transmission shop, so I grabbed a 2WD shaft with the teeth for the VSS. It has 6 lines on the tail end of it, which I have been informed means it is not factory hardened. This should be capable of surviving the occasional track day, as long as I don't make the shifts aggressive. I swapped a pump assembly, front casting # ending in 073, Long Stator with body casting ending in 611. This is a 13V pump rotor, and the casting numbers DO NOT indicate that it has a long or short shaft stator. I haven't found an ID for the shafts, but I have two 611 body castings on our parts shelf with a long AND short shaft. The height difference is noticeable. If I have done my research correctly, this should mate up to the 300mm type input shaft, NON-reluctor. Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe the only pump difference between 298 and 300mm shaft is the stator shaft itself, NOT the body, so castings 611 or 705 should work? Lastly, I acquired a Corvette-type 2nd Servo. I debated a super servo from Sonnax but it seems to be too much according to other builders in this forum.

Now, on to aftermarket/performance setup: I'm doing several things to this unit, some of which I'm aware are a bit overkill but are worth the money to me personally. There are cheaper ways to accomplish this, but here's my list of parts, starting with the big stuff:
Sonnax Smart-Tech input drum kit, #77733-11KB: This was a big thing for me. THE number one thing that fails in every unit that comes into our shop has to do with this drum. 3-4 clutches, leaking shaft-to-drum, broken sprag, etc. The additional room in the 3-4 clutch pack really sells this for me. It's also where I'm hoping to see some debate. More on that below.
Sonnax Heavy Duty Valve Body, #GM054-HD: Now THIS is where I want to discuss a lot. I know this can be done cheaper, and some things are not really necessary, but I'm still sold on it for me personally. We'll get to that later.
Sonnax Planetary ratio change kit, #77284-K: My boss has this in his truck at a similar power level, and having seen/felt the before and after, I'm sold. If he hasn't managed to break it yet, then I think I should be fine.
Sonnax Heavy Duty Reaction Shaft, #74602-01K: Perhaps not necessary, but I do see these get severely damaged on heavier/more thrashed-on vehicles.
Sonnax Smart Shell, #77749-02K: Again, probably not necessary, but I can get it fairly cheap through my shop so why not. The stock sun shell is known to strip, and we've been using these shells for a long time. Ain't broke, don't fix.
Sonnax 4th Gear Super Servo, #77767K: I've been told this is a very good upgrade.
x2 Pinless Accumulators, for the 1-2 and 3-4, #77998-03K: Not necessary at all, but it's super cheap for me.
Widened Reaction Sun Gear bushing, #77010-01: Definitely a good upgrade, as I see wear on the reaction shaft here often.
Superior K0136: Is this necessary? No, but for how cheap I can get it I'm willing to try it.
Sonnax wire harness retainer bracket, #77980-01K: Absolutely not necessary, but it's $2 for me. Why not.
I'm adding a 1 piece case-saver as well, but I'm curious if anybody recommends against these. The wear is almost non-existent, but I feel it's a good idea for the durability? I'll leave it out if it's not advised.

The following list is stock-type parts that are also going into this build. These are things we do on every build, regardless of what it goes in. Smart Shells are usually on this list, but we make exceptions if people really are trying to be cheap. We're moving towards it being an "every build" thing but that's out of my control.
Durabond Pump bushing: I think this is just a brand name for a Teflon type bushing, but it serves us very well.
Hardened pump rings: I don't know who makes these, but we put them in every rebuild unless they're already in there and we know it.
New MLPS: For me, I don't trust any used electronics unless I know where it came from. Plus, in my experience, if these had the "glue" in the connectors from the factory, heating it up to get the harness free destroys them. Worth the money.
New internal harness: Again, I have no idea the history of this unit. Not going to chance it. If you know yours only burned the frictions, go ahead and reuse, they rarely have issues.
Borg-Warner Front and Rear Sprags: I know the front is a great upgrade, with the dual-cage setup, the rear I just personally want to do, again not knowing the unit.
Borg-Warner Hi-Energy Band: I have seen MUCH debate on wide vs BW. But From what I've gathered, this is the best for longevity in a daily car.
Frictions: I'm thinking a full Borg-Warner HE pack should be okay? I'm not actually sure if this is sold like this, I'm waiting on my parts Rep. This is where I'm unsure. For the Sonnax drum, I'm going with the Borg-Warner HE 3-4 frictions, 9 of them measuring .062. Also with that, 8 Kolene steels at .077. I WILL be reinstalling the Load Release Springs, with Sonnax's springs from the drum kit. Their spec is .050-.060, should I tighten that up?
I am also getting the Blue Hi-Per Molded Pistons, it's not a huge price jump.
The Valve body comes with a separator plate, gaskets, Torlon checkballs, and new Solenoids. It also has new accumulator and servo springs, as well as a Line pressure Boost valve kit and pinless acc. for Fwd. I called Sonnax and they told me the only thing the HP pack they sell has that this VB doesn't, is the TCC PWM Delete kit and the Pinless Accumulators for 1-2 and 3-4.
The input drum contains a PTFE Stator support bushing, so I don't need that separate.

I'm also thinking about the Rev. Drum bushings, should I upgrade these? How about the upper stator shaft bushing?
With the HD VB, should I still block the 3-2 valves? If so, where should I start as far as orifice size? Anything else I can do to it?

To the experts, I really appreciate any input here. Huge thanks to previous discussions by MaroonMonster, PBA, vorteciroc, FranksCustom, and 2BFAST, as I'd be nowhere without your knowledge.

 

Hi not ignoring this and will get around to addressing some of it, honestly though I think you would get more and better responses if you broke it down to smaller post like start with a less involved question and description then add to it in comments post as it goes along
Frank

 

I understand, and thanks for responding. I like to keep everything in a "list" so I can refer to it; it's easier for me to keep focused that way. I do think it's valuable to condense it down to the most important questions I have though, so I'll do that now.
Sonnax input drum: their instructions call for a .050-.060 3-4 clearance. Should I tighten this up? Stack (per instructions) is nine .062 frictions and eight .077 kolene steels.
HD Valve Body: should I still block the two 3-2 valves? Or leave it alone.
Case saver: very little case wear, but should I put it in anyways?
Rev. Drum and upper stator shaft bushings: any need to upgrade these?

 

I understand, and thanks for responding. I like to keep everything in a "list" so I can refer to it; it's easier for me to keep focused that way. I do think it's valuable to condense it down to the most important questions I have though, so I'll do that now.
Sonnax input drum: their instructions call for a .050-.060 3-4 clearance. Should I tighten this up? Stack (per instructions) is nine .062 frictions and eight .077 kolene steels.

I like to see around .020 to .030 dry with release springs installed as I have found after a few applications this will open up to about .040 .060 depending on the frictions used ect.

HD Valve Body: should I still block the two 3-2 valves? Or leave it alone.

Builders preference most do however block it .

Case saver: very little case wear, but should I put it in anyways?

Not necessary unless absolutely needed, Doing so will however result in a notable clack sound from time to time.

Rev. Drum and upper stator shaft bushings: any need to upgrade these?

Rev input drum no upgrade im aware of and if replacing with a new one they come with new bushings.

Stator pump, Use TH350 SMALL BUSHING AT FRONT ITS WIDER and Stock or of you like PTFE at rear. These should however always be replaced . Do yourself a favor use a press to do this and be care not to damage bore removing old ones if nicked clean up first.

 

The input drum actually comes with a PTFE lower bushing, and it's almost a shame because the bushing in the stator I have is, for once, like brand new. Luckily, I have the wider front bushing on the parts shelf so I won't need to order one.
I'll leave the case saver out.
I'd like to block the 3-2 valves, anything else I should do to the valve body?
If I've missed anything else in the build, I'd appreciate anyone chiming in. Thanks!

 

I would install a Sonnax HD 2-3 Shift Valve or mod the valve to have overrun clutches on in all gears but 4th.

 

I don't know what Sonnax does to their GM054-HD, but apparently it applies overrun in D4 (1st, 2nd, and 3rd gears) and D3. I won't have the Valve Body for a while, so I can't attempt to decipher their hydraulics and/or plate changes until then. I do know it has their HD 2-3 Valve in it already, along with all of the usual upgrades (like o-ring plugs) and more. My valve body has some issues I'm aware of, so instead of buying reamers and repairing, I'm letting Sonnax handle all of it.

 

We discussed it in at least 2 Threads... but Brain-dead me can not remember them...

 

I've been looking for threads discussing it, but maybe I'm just buzzing right over the right ones. That's why I asked; I usually don't ask questions until I've hit a roadblock where I can't find a discussion or just am not understanding something.

 

This is one of several ways it can be done but likely the simplest method for a novice. Plug those two feeds by some means and then connect the two passages

 

@Pyroneus Dawnlight Have you thought about how you are hooking the 4L60 to your original shifter?

 

I have Shiftworks setup in both my 69 Camaros w/ horseshoe shifters. But I did swap out the gates for more superior ones though.

 

@@2BFAST What gate did you end up going with?

 

DPJ Fabricating

 

Actually no I haven't gotten that far yet, @2BFAST how do you like the setup you have?

 

I really like it. The Shiftworks kit is a very nice kit and installs great. But, as I mentioned above I did swap out the gates

 

I'm thinking yours is the floor shift kit? I'm going with column, call me crazy. That's what the car came with and I don't want to cut up my brand new floor pan if it can be avoided. Trying to find a cable style setup instead of rods, but I see Shiftworks has a kit if I end up going that route.

 

Mine is a console horseshoe kit yes

 

Let us know either way you want to go we have you covered, also you don't need to cut up your new floor pan for a floor shifter, just need a hole for the cable and 4 holes to mount the shifter,(there are also other ways to mount the shifter as well.)

 

Correct. On original or repop floor pans there are dimples in the sheet metal on the trans tunnel where the nut zerts go to mount the shifter as well as the indentation where the hole mentioned above goes for the cable.

My Z/28 clone was originally a column shift car and I converted it to console. Using what I mentioned above the repop console and shifter fit perfect as well as the Shiftworks kit. Very clean install. Although its amazing that car still has its original floor pans, but I do know repop floors have the dimples for mounting like original