Its just SUPER GLUE GEL QUICK DRY

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Ultra-Control-Super-Glue/dp/B07VMC2YMT/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3PWJTTTTPEIYD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ 9.jUN2Zf-AwRvwXsW1kXcnOTpDYNDomcJ9q9hx_clA0jSaXCT5Mo-JobbEwKimSFyPfvr5ZY5Hdojm05TzpK4y7GMSuZvKNb_lAj2R_ rKu8L0ShU4wPbudFWGJI3dzBgFZfiZ2UIJ7E_KrHy-8kyiz-Isx8IMsTHahFGmtaVuXRhMRLX7dlw9ExU2mfKgr9kWvg9uwbv5 C5uisFN06jZqvfl0tUxiPH1xKKt6LsQwbAzA.O2FHopDZkUkNN p0BPKe0INW8unO7yn-pxiK6_Wkj-HM&dib_tag=se&keywords=SUPER%2BGLUE%2BGEL%2BQUICK& qid=1759338330&sprefix=super%2Bglue%2Bgel%2Bquick% 2Caps%2C170&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

 

Thanks Frank. Next time around I will give it a shot. To what temperature are you heating up the drum prior to pressing the shaft in?

 

not TOO hot as it accelerates glue dry time massively. Ussually hot but not so hot i cant hold with hand and shaft cool though not refrigerator cold unless you have really low humidity as it wiill sweat, But as much diffferential as possible in that range.The greater the diferential the easier the install . In fact when i was just playing arround the drum hot as I could hold and shaft frozen literally slid in by hand. But again that condensation issue ,

 

When the time comes I think I will experiment with scrap drum first just in case to prevent scraping good drum.

 

Some one ask so wanted to show, Someone ask with the 60 or 80e what if you have to little converter to flex plate clearance?
This a rare and while could just be a perfect storm parts also could point to a bad engine thrust bearing , So before doing anything check while pryng crank to front with crowbar or something but be careful about damaging whatever you pry against.
But is that is not the ussue a solution does exist this is just one example but they can be had from .250 down to .030 from various sources

 

It can be just bad because of wrong storage conditions
Sometimes it happens (once it was sealant for windshield glass -and glass simply pop out )
I used regular thread sealant from Liqui Moly - no issues

 

I use loctite 638 on the input shaft, it’s stronger for this application and can be released if need be with heat, lower heat than the 620. Something to consider. It’s also gap filling. I tested it out in a transam with a built motor and the shaft was no longer a press fit. The 638 held it and never leaked. About two years later, he broke the forward sprag and the drum was tested and had no leaks.

 

NOTE when using my shift kit with overun mod, It is not suggested to block the 3-2 valve inboard or otherwise make it non functional as this may cause an overly agressive 3-2 coast downshift. Not that it will hurt anything just less than pleasant in some vehicles.

 

It depends
As a person that has blocked 3-2 valve and did overrun mod I must admit that 4600 lbs veh with 3.73 and 29 tires goes 3-2 same as 4-3 and sometimes 4-3 kicks harder
I feel 4-3 and 3-2 only while slow braking to traffic stop
If I braking intensively - don't feel at all

 

Hello again )
Im thinking a couple of days about oil pressure
Optimal as many people mentioned here 230 fwd and 300 reverse
If we go higher -something can brake like it was with -96 alu pistons
But now we dont have alu in forward gears
So if we rise up pressure -it rises to reverse too and reverse contains alu pistons
What if we rise pressure only for FWD ? I think steel molded pistons can withstand 300 psi

 

Well at some point you have to consider the input drum itself. I have seen with very high line, Snap ring grooves popped out for FWD rememeber with the OR mod or in D3 you have not one but two piston combined with huge apply area pushing on the forward clip. The the 3-4 with is rather narrow retaining area. Now something I have considered is a one way valve in the reverse boost circuit to alow oil from reverse but block return when not in reverse and somehow feeding a metered oil to the rev boost section from the 3-4 clutch circuit to raise line in 3rd and 4th as throttle is increased but in a more lineral fashion to avoid the additonal impact of high line on fwd apply or downshift with the OR mod while rising during the 2-3 shift but metered so the 2-3 shift has allready begun before presure is beefed up allow higher line but with less impact. This is something I was working on and thinking out when i had access to a DYNO but didnt get to complete or test to figure out metering or exactly how to put in a one way valve. These things were seen as not needed as what we have was good enough . But in theory you could gradually substaintially raise the line this way with throttle with minimal addition impact to the drum.
One of the issues from back that time period was I had the ideas and the machine, But not the required alotted time to create and perfect such things which calibration might take many tries to get just right. Now of course I do not have acess to such and honestly its to much effort to do with my car trial and error.
But this would be a way to substaintially raise line in 3RD and 4TH at all throttle presure but mostly at WOT where these would benifit most .

 

SHIFT KIT INSTRUCTIONS

Remove the fwd accume cover and replace accum with metal one, Remove rev abuse spring and valve.

Use a pocket screw driver and push roll pin from botom enough to eb able to grab it from vb top. place thumb over hole and remove roll pin. Remove old bore plug and push inner rping and valve back into bore. If you have one use a pipe brush brass to quicky debur bore on drill or drimel . blow out hole.

grease and install new plug oring to outside with flat head screw driver narrow enough to slide all the way to spring in bore. Us gentle twistng motion with gengle force till in place then roll then reinstall fwd accum spring, abusevalve aand sprng , install cover.


Remove sol 2-3 or B and remove two valve by tappng valve body gently on table, Install new 2-3 valve (note spring should be on valve but if came off insatll as shown and it has a slighly smaller end tha goes toward valve. install outer valve and install solenoid and clip.


Remove roll pin for accum with flat head through the bore end and then use hooked pick to pull accum out, (note if stuck or really ahrd to remove skip this step its no worth damaging body over )

Check that valve moves in sleeve good and the add longer spring included to the existing spring and the reinsatll accum assembly and roll pin


AFL VALVE With thumb over hole remove clip , end plug , spring and valve . Install supplied valve its .001 oversized so may drag some thats ok and then reistall spring and end cap then clip , its all kinda stiff .

When removing PRESURE SOL note how bracket is positoned and direction

If you like use screw driver to check AFL motion its stiff


Spring over spot its goes. First look into th slot and use screw driver to push the isolator valbe away from bore wall

Sqeeze and push one of the short springs into the slot,

The use pocket driver to push into place . you will hear it click when in place.

remove converter reg end cap and replace as shown with rinnged one .



Remove and replace 4-3 valve end cap as shown .

FWD ABUSE PLUG Again remove the outter cap spring and valve. Then from under side with pocket screw driver put pin up enough to grab from other side. Then with thump over bore remove roll pin . remove bore plug, iF YOU HAVE PIPE Brush as before debure hole and the grease plug and instal same as before wit gentle twist till in place to install pin. Then blow out bore just in case and reinsatle valve spring and stock cap




Now VB plate is ready to go except a choice, I have one hole marked . For light to moderate firm 1-2 shift leave as is . If frimer wanted enlarge to .093. NOTE THIS WILL ALSO AFFECT THE 3-2 DOWNSHIFT COAST FEEL .

With petrolium jelly place ***** in positiions shown. All stock positions except for the two at blocked hole postions bathtube and overun omit those. Also no ball needed at 4th accum in case.

Install assembly as removed. Dont forget to tighten the three plate bolts and make sure three long 8mm in correct location.

 

SHIFT KIT INSTRUCTIONS 2

iNSTALL SUPPLIED BOOST VALVE should have spring in valve note assembly is main PR-TWO STOCK SPRINGS AND THE BOOST VALVE ASSEMBLY. MAKE SURE CLIP FULLY INSERTED. BOOST VAVE WILL TAKE SOME EFFORT TO PUSH INTO PLACE.

You are done with VB part.

Next remve servo assemby If FBODY , VET,GTO, IMPALA SS .you already have corvette servo. So just remove and install new pin . then best to carefull remove remove all outer servo assembly rings and the two on new pin carfully. Now if using stock 4th servo flip 4th servo and put assmebly back together and with spring in bore insert assembly and try to install clip while pressing in firmly . if you can install then with pry bar push in on servo cover if it moves but no more than the thickness of the clip then simply turn output shaft with trans in any gear but part by hand its not easy but should not require pliers either in both directions, it will be harder in one than the other, You will likley hear a sqeeky sound that normal the you are good, Remove the assembly install the rings on sero and on pim grease up install and place clip in you are good and yes leave 4th servo flipped.
If clip will not go in or will out shaft wil not turn . Remove grind about 1/8 inch from inside end of pin and try again till you acomplish above and them do final instalation making sure clip is fully inserted and gap in the 10 oclock positon.
Ideally if building do the servo before pump with trans upright, The goal is the band as close as possible with no drag on drum .

Thats all The reson for removing the rings from the pin during set up is a sharpe edge happens to back side of bore from wear and will tear rings sometimes on removal but not insertion of pin . If by change you make that mistake HARBOR FREIGHT has the orings inthe green or brown set both suitable.

I plan much more novice detailed instructions in the future. But for now all all is assumed a basic understanding of the unit.


[img alt="How stack up gaps should look when servo stacked space between center stands and cap no matter what cap should be no more than 1/16th inch . If sitting on top try adding a 1/16th easher between 4th servo and pin if opens to less than a1/16th gap good If opens to more than 1/16 then remove washer and assemble as is. Note the sonnax 4th servo requires a washer between servo abd pin. You can get several thickness in grade 8 or 10 at hardware store , Size is 3/8th. With sonnax must be grade 8
"]https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/940x2000/stack_up_8c8fedf8622d97d2c9c5a10d8808358c379f71f3. jpg[/img]
How stack up gaps should look when servo stacked space between center stands and cap no matter what cap should be no more than 1/16th inch . If sitting on top try adding a 1/16th easher between 4th servo and pin if opens to less than a1/16th gap good If opens to more than 1/16 then remove washer and assemble as is. Note the sonnax 4th servo requires a washer between servo abd pin. You can get several thickness in grade 8 or 10 at hardware store , Size is 3/8th. With sonnax must be grade 8

 

[img alt="With stock or the sonnax or any 4th servo when stacked you should have between none and about 1/16th inch of gap between the cover and center peice but the actual servo being in contact or within 1/16th of the pin .
With the stck stock 4th servo ussually just flipping the servo will do this, However if needed you can add a washer of whatever thickness needed to get this and type will do they are 3/8 in size and various thickness can be had at the hardware store. Same is true of all other servos "]https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/ls1tech.com-vbulletin/940x2000/stack_up_2188a901e00e0ba7fbf73ecc6f2123561acf75b7. jpg[/img]
With stock or the sonnax or any 4th servo when stacked you should have between none and about 1/16th inch of gap between the cover and center peice but the actual servo being in contact or within 1/16th of the pin . With the stck stock 4th servo ussually just flipping the servo will do this, However if needed you can add a washer of whatever thickness needed to get this and type will do they are 3/8 in size and various thickness can be had at the hardware store. Same is true of all other servos.

NOTE- SUPERIOR SECOND SERVO WILL NOT WORK WITH SONNAX OR SIMILAR FLAT BOTTOM 4TH SERVOS WITHOUT MACHINING

Again I will work on making these instructions better in coming days

 

And what pressure it was ?
_______________________
No
You have FWD piston that pushes OR piston and OR piston work AGAINST force of FWD piston cuz when you apply pressure to OR it work not from drum but from FWD piston!
It means that with OR applied FWD piston has 2 areas with pressure - SAME as 2nd servo at 3rd gear
Its literally lowering resulting force to FWD clutch pack at amount of force that now pushing OR clutch
Resulting force for snap ring of FWD not changes at all*
--------------------------------------------
*With Sonnax input drum reinforcement kit
__________________________________________________ ___
We talking about E series of 4l60 right ? I don't see any problem to remap pressure tables by lowering all numbers to % that actual pressure was raised ( 30% or so if 230-300) but leave high numbers only for 3-4 at wot
Thats the magic of E control -you can adjust it by clicking in firmware map redactor

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
How to measure AFL pressure ?
I see that AFL pressure not only rises pressure for solenoids control but rises force that applied to boost valve increasing its affect to line pressure
How far I can go with increasing AFL ?

 

I stand corrected one the over/fwd didnt think about the opposition presure equalizing it all out .


I have seen the drums snap at 250 plus. More likely with a high clutch clearance.

This is what My little spring does in the BOOST it give same affect as raising AFL without actually raising AFL and from helping people at least with tune it seem some start having issues with the 2-3 shift above 95 percent at WOT . Now on my own car an interesting issue when I tried to raise the line above 99 it actually went down . I set at 110 and had super soft shifts . Now that may just be and obd1 issue idk .But the biggest issue with using TUNE AFL to raise line is risk of flooding solenoids 2-3 in particular as AFL acts on both ends and stock no spring on the valve. So If AFL to high the solenoid may not exahust enough and you get the valve just hanging there. One of the reasons for my added spring. Other fixes could be make AFL feed holes smaller? Or make bleed larger in solenoid. But adding the little spring to the valve helps alot and adding spring to boost valve rasies line without rasing actual AFL.

Now remapping the 3 and 4 presure with AFL would be ok except not sure if that can be done after the shift happens. No familar enough with tuning here to say. Raising prior to might cause some of the issues above. But regardless the mod I mention is completed would have the advantage of being helpful even when tuning was not avaiable and also could likley be adapted to work with the 700R4 to where tuning is not an option.

 

I think I know what went wrong
And GM did very nasty thing
Look at the 100 column -they actually dropped pressure to almost 0 if you command it above 96%
And nastiest thing -not all programs even show this 100 column

 

Yes and this is why people trying to solve a WOT 2-3 think trans cant handle cause theY raise line and still wonT make shift. Which is why when I get THAT CALL I always ask what if you let off just a little? If they say it shifts I have them to drop the presure 3 to 5 percent and ussually its fixed.
Also some turn the PCS up with the screw which is generally ok an 8th turn or so, But beyond that even with staying below 96 they can then flood the 2-3 solenoid and still not get the WOT shift till they let off just a bit.
Now the presure drop when to high you mention is the most dangerous as it can literally burn up the 3-4 in short order after only a few tries at WOT . Then tuner not knowing and or driver blames trans for not survivng
4L60CRAPPY E LOL.
That was something I studdied on with the 0411 PCM this table you cant see, People raise and raise line trying to get the 2-3 and burn up the trans not realizing whats actually happening.
On my own car with OBD1 When I raised the line to 110 percent, it slipped 3rd at WOT I only let it happen once, I then put gauge on and discovered with it set like this when i went WOT the presure would drop from 220 ish near WOT to 80 psi at WOT.I played with mine and in its case it did work fine to 99 but dropped immediatly when set at 100.

 

So
Why not to use boost valve reverse zone too ? Just block reverse oil to it and make passages inside to use both areas to torque sig apply
After that just drop all pressure maps and adjust only WOT with pressure gauge to needed pressure
After achieving numbers what % set needed pressure just remap all tables
No need custom boost valves
No rise to reverse above 300 when you trying to achieve high FWD pressure
I definitely wanna test it I just wanna know how hi I can get before input drum goes in hi risk pressures to loose snap rings
Actually increasing pressure will benefit all pistons
No need to servo bigger than corvette
No need to dual piston servo for 4th
No need to use custom input drum with bigger 3-4 piston
I know one example with I mentioned re4r01 jatco tranny where original max pressure 165 psi and for racing it was increased to 375 and only problem it has -bent brake band anchors at the ends of band
Tranny itself holding it like champ
But it has not that funny shape input piston that always cracked - it has plain alu pistons with no zones that can start cracking

-------------------------------------------------
My next idea - why we actually need forward sprag ?
I mean - with OR mod fwd sprag works only at 4th when OR clutch goes off
What if just get rid of FWD oil at all and block sprag and use both clutch packs as OR ?
I cant say that 4-3 bump unpleasant with OR mod -you just know that it will push a little but nothing so bad to be scared
If use custom big sleeve to input drum like sonnax did but make it to both areas in one piece it will be better to input dram to shaft rigidity
After that custom steel piston and make OR and FWD as one clutch - I think it can be bigger because you dont need a divider between clutches and without actual OR piston nobody pushes FWD piston backwards
It mean steady pressure to both clutches with better holding capacity
Right now with oem pistons we have OR clutch pushed to max and FWD clutch pressed more easy than it can be if we not use OR mod (but it will load fwd sprag to max) because of pressure applied to both sides of FWD piston
We can sacrifice some riding quality to max holding capacity I think

 

Ford AOD AODE 4R70W is example of the no sprag and yes it can be done with the 60e but at high line and stuch would take some good magic to avoid being super clunky comning in and out, Doing it is easy , But while most performance enthusist would be ok even now I do get some compain abot just the 3-2 down with the OR mod .
But yes it would be quite easy to eliminate the sprag and replace with an aluminim splined bock (steel probably to heavy) I figured this out several years ago but was never afforded the opuritunity to test it .