I wonder if you could make a map to create a switchable full manual mode at max line for racing only ?

 

All these PCM have 3 modes that are easily accessible.

Normal Mode
"cruise" mode
"tow" (if in trucks) or "performance" mode in cars

They each have different shift scheduling tables and different shift firmness/pressure tables

Yes you can make them max out pressure, or shift super late, or whatever you want to do.

 

Interesting I will study them more, Just wondering could you set up a full manaul mode so it would start and shift up or down to whatever position the manual valve was in. Like a full manual valve body .I know you can make it do so with HD3 or with a little wiring harness deal. But what about strictly with the PCM . I will study this. thanks.

 

The Chinese "FI" drum was my design that I suggested they make, but in typical Chinese fashion they made them and sent them to other companies without even giving me the courtesy to test them,

Anaerobic means once you press the shaft in, it will dry between the shaft and drum, just because it's wet where it's exposed doesn't represent the pressed area, You are the easily offended type it seems.

 

Again I am aware how it works and have found something that for me at least I feel works better overall in every state. time will tell . I do know what I now use does not change any from 15f to 350f as far as solidity as I did test for leaks and removability .


No I suppose I am just polite , In any case I did send a guy to you for a 1200 to 2000 hp 4L80E as while I do the 80E I do not ship them and hes out west .
Interesting on the FI drum I actually learned of it in an EMAIL they sent a couple years ago to me.
And yes while I am not like many THINK all CHINA made stuff is junk , Some I have actually looked at was better made, But I have seen if you send an idea to them well you just gave away your idea.
They make great copys of sonnax pinless accum though I generaly dont use that style anyway they are thicker at bottom that sonnax and playing with a couple on my press found they will take about 40 more PSI before the center breaks though both went to about 350 PSI before breaking with my crude test and the dual OD servo its actually thicker at the piston area (I have seen a few sonnax break here on the larger servo). But have not tested beyond that as they come with wrong material seals and while they will acept the sonnax reseal kit , Time you add that you have spent as much as the sonnax unit.
I will say the END CAPS ARE great for the price just change the orings again WRONG MATERIAL but they are cheap enough. Here again In my bulds I ussually just machine the stock ones for the o-rings as Iike using a thicker one.
And before anyone says anything . NO I dont use the CHINA servo and rarely use te sonnax pinless unless have availability issue with the stock style aluminum.
But have bought some things to look at like the F1 drum which i did use and it worked well or at least has in the unit its in the last couple years as I only had the one. But was nice made.
In anycase no not easily offended just polite its how I am lol . Im not here to argue just share personal experience and knowlege which is what this thread is about with the realization which I hate to use this old expression as I do love my CATS. "More than one way to skin a cat" as they used to say and hope this thread has been and continues to be a place to share 4L60E information , ideas, methods old and new.

 

I dont find such mode as standalone option
PCM itself has 2 pins as input sig for choosing desired mode like tow or sport
It means when you not using these pins -nomal mode
Engaging one pin its second mode (whatever it calls)
Engaging second pin (and releases first) -third mode
But for full manual you need 3 pins -one for choosing manual mode and 2 pins to use taps +-
As far as I know there is no OEM software to use in such mode
Maybe with BCM module(it has plenty input and output pins) it can be commanded via class2 datalink - I dont have such knowledge and experience
I also will be happy to use full manual mode as option

 

Remember the LT1 4th gens had that button for trans ....to firm the shifts up ?

 

Yes it switches between tables .

 

Inside my 6sp firmware I have maps named as manual mode with limits for every gear
For gen3 I dont have such maps and even I command gear to change - actual map preferences instantly will change it back
So we need firmware with manual mode first for gen3

 

I read the full thread and have a question. I have both an 01 and 02 tahoe, how do these mods work with the tow/haul mode? Tow haul seams to significantly firm the shifts not just alter shift timing. I don't want to buy franks valve body parts then in tow/haul cause some insane hard shifts or break stuff. I tow, quite a bit. Tahoes are bone stock but have a 6.0 planned for the 01 and am seriously considering buying a transmission from franks as i dont have time to rebuild myself as I'm a homesteader and spring is upon us.

 

It will firm shifts somewhat paticulary with the 2-3 and 3-4. The 1-2 will be modest change, It will protect the input sprag andwhile it wont fix a broken trans it should indrease life of a decent shape one. How harsh will shifts be well hard to say as that is subjective I have learned over the years, But provided the PCM or other sensor failure is not COMMANDED extreme presure , Shifts in both modes should remain reasonably moderate .
But always bear in mind while you dont want slamming shifts. Slding soft shifts also equal heat and wear. Its a trade off and finding a place in the middle.