It seems fine and does not block acess to anything in my set up . But I have heard it does block acess to some emissions stuff in much newer OS cars . I am using a 2002 tahoe OS and the newest latest software and MV . Not noted anything grayed out. But I am new to HP. I have noted not near as much available to ajust as with TUNER CAT I used with my 95 obd1 set up .

 

They grayed parameters that locked for changing if you not have access code as pro tuner that took all responsibilities for eco violation
I used 4.8.7 for editing DTC table and CAT&EGR parameters
My personal opinion - HPT made great tool for logging and moderate tool for editing (I dunno they intentionally hidden parameters or just were lazy to made them all tuneable)
But TunerPRO/Universal Patcher are better for GEN3

 

What OS number are you using?

 

All I know is from a 2002 cheverolet tahoe 4x4 with flex fuel and 4l60e-5.3litre .

 

Then it's probably a 12216125 OS. If you ever need to turn that off, I'm attaching an XDF file that you can use in HPT if you purchase the "User Defined Parameters" option. This allow you to import parameters that HPT does not have defined. Just delete the ".txt at the end of the file since the site does not allow .xdf files to be uploaded.

 

Ok a new finding for sealants for the shaft and input drum.
As I mentioned a while back I noted the following .
1-RED OR BLUE LOCKTITE = Useless as never hardens in this app.
2- GREEN SLEEVE RETAINER sealer LOCTITE = Will harden somewhat over time and or if heat applied but by time I mean days to weeks with my own test drum shft siiting on shelf.
3-SUPER GLUE REGULAR = hardens very quickly but not at all pliable and IMO would break up with normal tortional stress of shaft.
4-SUPER GLUE GELL = Hardens slower good but same as regular becomes extremly britle.

Best result tested thus far = REGULAR OLD JB WELD - Does not require air, oxegen , mosture or heat to harden- Hardened has great bond but remains somewhat or pliable enough not to easily break up under stress- impervious to all solvents and oils that I have tested anyway- stable to 500f plus degrees- Hardens within couple hours enough to seal well and air test apply frictions. fully in about 72 hours all conditions (wet dry sealed open hot cold)
So for now this is my go to, JB QUICK is not suitable as temp stability to low at about 200f .

If anyone has something else they would like me to test post up ill get some and do some test as I did these in my spare time, But for now a thin coat of regular old JB then pressed in and holes blown out to remove any potential un-intended intrustion into ports is the clear winner.

 

ill tell you one more time 😘, loctite 638 industrial strength is the best thing to use. It gives you enough time for assembly, but dries in minutes. Try to get the shaft back out without heat…..it ain’t happening. And the excess is easily blown out with brake cleaner and air.

 

i JUST ordered and will test , I tested the 620 it was a fail miserably was still liquid inside drum two weeks later .

 

awesome. Can’t wait to see how it fairs. I think I posted this earlier on in the thread, but if not, I used it on a drum that the shaft could be pulled out by hand. Was in a Trans am with a built motor and a kid with a lead foot. It held up over a year of him showing no mercy until he broke the sprag. I checked to see if it leaked and it didn’t.

 

Loctite 648 is a better fit for this application IMO
It's basically the exact same as 638
4min set time
Anerobic
etc

BUT the 638 is designed for a .005-.010 gap fill
the 648 is designed for press fits up to .005 gap

The use case for this is already a press fit and we're trying to seal and prevent movement

I've used the 648 for...probably 10 years now

It's amazing stuff

You definitely will break a drum trying to press it out if not supported very well and pre heated

I'm sure the 638 works great and won't cause issue...I'm just saying the 648 would be a slightly better fit

 

Ill try that too, Just testing different things, I just noted people list this and that they use at various places and so of it well is useless . So looking for the best ,

 

Use the 648 on your pump bushings as well
4l60e as you well know have an issue with pump bushings walking out, blocking the vent hole and then blowing out the pump seal

Ever since I started using 648...zero (knock on wood) pump bushings have walked on our builds

the 648 is a thin viscosity so it also doubles as a pretty good sealant. That's why I like it on the 4l60e drums.

 

You do realize it's an anaerobic product right? Do you understand what that means?

 

I’ve been using red loctite on those and the rear bushing from day one. I haven’t seen one walk out yet. My reason for NOT using the 638 on it is because I may need to change the bushing(s) one day. lol.

 

Another thing, the reason I like to use the 638 is because (two reasons)
- if you press the shaft in a 1/4”-1/2” and look through the splines, you can still see daylight. It looks like the splines do not fit perfectly tight the whole way around each spline. At least that what I can tell. So the 638 will fill all the gaps and make for a stronger bond. POSSIBLY aiding in keeping the drum from splitting right there, without a reinforcement collar.
-the other reason is I feel better with it filling the gap at the drum chamfer that gets really close to the 3-4 feeder hole. In my mind, every little bit helps and filling in that gap, makes me feel better. Does it do anything? I have no idea, maybe. But it can’t hurt!

 

I have a unit im currently doing. I pressed out the shaft the other night and I will be replacing the drum on this one for sure. It feels worse than it looks. It pressure tested fine cold but I dont trust those results

Good thing is I have a nice drum to replace it with already. Loctite 648 it is!

 

Yes I am aware and my point is if it has not hardened by the time the first presurized oil hits it then its gone as far as being a sealer . I am just testing various products to see what I find serves this purpose best.
When used as a sealer/retainer in a condition that may or may not have oxygen present . It whatever it may be needs to harden in both conditions.
Of course in a perfect world we would all just use brand new drums and shafts. But personally I have found no reliable source for these . Sonnax uses new drums for the smart drum but prohibitive cost wise for most builds with probably the best overall availabilty but still at times iffy. A chinese company makes a nice one with a larger 3-4 PISTON and while reasonable at 490 dollars last time I checked availability very limited and iffy, But have seen some good test results by others with it.
I am just doing trying different things to see what works best in near all conditions as all conditions are a reality.
I also hear you have a drum also but not heard much about price or availability yet or it may be propreitary to your units ?

 

While I have no means to moderate this thread , I will ask that all be polite . This is a thread to exchange ideas, experinces and general knowledge. Remember My way or Your way or others ways and experiences may not nessesarily be the only right way. Please be polite, contribute, dont be condecending or rude.
Appreciated.

 

Little info some may know, But In the past I have had people ask if the 60e could be made to start in second manually rather than first , I know later trucks could do this and the GTO but other cars could not. I actually tried to tune it in with the cars original OBD1 tune an was not sucessful, Then with the new TORQUEHEAD and O411 pcm and a camaro tune that came on it , Also it did not have it. Though I didnt try to change to do it as the camaro tune was just a stop gap and they dont send them with flex fuel tunes.
I then flashed the PCM with an O2 TAHOE FLEX fuel tune and found it had gained second gear manual start.
I mention this as over the years people with high numercle ratios 4.11 4.56 have ask. So the answer is yes it can be done in the tune with OBD2 0411 pcm and I am sure others. I dont see where its done yet, But simply swapping to the truck tune made it so in my own car which I have found handy driving in the snow .(WOULD BE HANDY FOR BURN OUTS IN LOW GEARED CARS IMO )
Like I said I am sure some of you allready knew this but I am new to HP TUNERS and OBD2 so thought i would share. When and if I find where the change is I will post it. For now I can only say flashing the truck tune did it.
I will say HPT is interesting some things are easier. But some things I could get to in TUNERCAT with the original 95 GM1 OS is not available in HP of course catstuner and other were mostlly user written and open source is probably why.

 

Its very easy to make it happen
Just remap shift tables
0411(P01) and later P59 has input signals for use different maps
You can choose between using class2 data from body control module (Body Control Module =BCM make analog signal from buttons transfer to digital commands )
And analog inputs directly to PCM to select shift maps and parameters - Tuner Pro has description what pins must be used to it
Very cool feature to make 2-3 different maps for cruise and race and maybe tow