There is two zones at output shaft with different dia of orifices
First (second from front end of shaft) is lubricating sun gear bushings and trey are closed type without passages
Second(third) provide oil to captive bearing inside first planet and further to planet satellites
If I drill sun gear in the middle of teeth I will add passage from second area that supplies oil to bearing and it will be like making notches to sun gear and steal some oil from captive bearing inside planet
I already did line-to-lube orifice inside pump and its should increase oil flow thru all orifice drillings at output shaft
Do you think drilling is better than notches ? What about captive bearing ? Will it be enough oil to it ?
Do you add second bushing to reaction shaft to thinner end of it ? I little bit afraid that second bushing can block lube drilling at shaft

About overrun mod - I decided to drill wall by 0.120 or more cuz when you cut gasket and somehow make restriction due to low profile of it (in result less than 0.063) -it means that overrun not only slowly locks but it also can't use advantage of checkball to quickly flush off oil
Its not big deal to block drilling in wall if I dont need it or just swap VB

 

i was just thinking in the middle of sun gear might sling more oils to center of the pack. I have done the slot hole method on the OR MOD but prefer the gasket cut as it easily if ever needed reversable by the customer, Its only happened once but makes for easy fix, Adding the extra bushing, I have in very high end builds but you do have to be very careful of positioning to avoid that blockage. .
On additional thing I would love to make is a brass lube seal for input drum to output shaft, I have seen a couple so someone at some point did make. I made one but was honestly to hard to do and be practical at least for me on a large scale. The Idea behind it I think was to add more support between the drum and output shaft to keep it all centered.
Back to OR MOD with years of doing it as I do. I have done a number of refresh on units with it, To date I have never seen any since of any burning or overlapped apply with 4th gear.
The OR piston does have a relif ball in it.

 

I think it can be done IF we make clean hole right where input shaft ends - splines in the input drum should be machined to flat
Because make this custom brass splined like input shaft will be difficult

 

Yes on the one and only 1 I made I actually heated the brass round stock , Then while hot, pressed it into a piece I cut from an old input drum to make splines, Let cool and then cleaned up with a whizz wheel and wire brush ,Then I did not have a drill bit to center size so drilled it a size smaller on lathe and then used a brake hone to finish up till it fit the shaft just snug . Took better part of a day to make which I why at least for me was not a practical idea. Though I did like the principle of it. I used it in a local build so could keep track of it and so far two years (but only about 10k MILES ) so good. Though I really didn't expect to see an issue.
I have always felt lack of enough support for the input drum was an issue with the 4L60E and this could help to keep all centered.
I did speak with a company in china which already make a NEW BILLET INPUT DRUM with a 10 percent larger 3-4 apply piston about making these . They said they would look into it but did not get back with me. I do however plan to get one of their drums to look at . They claim its a tougher aluminum than stock, 0 balanced. along with the larger apply area for the 3-4. Come with billet 3-4 piston for 400 dollars. Once I get one I will post thoughts on it.

 

Much more work than just make flat spot inside drum and press slightly custom brass bushing

I drilled second orifice in the output shaft so now more oil come between bushings and thru sun gear to front part of planet so better lube for planet and for FWD and 3-4 clutches
Decided not to make notches at the back of sun gear because it will restrict oil flow thru captured bearing
And I don't have drill bit right now that can cut hardened steel (my 0.086 too big and can't rotates between teeth -and it's very sensitive to any hitting load so I decided not to try and will order 0.04-0.05 that should fit)
I also install custom seal behind parking gear in the case to revert oil flow from the last lube hole that doing nothing
Now I hope this oil goes forward and will lube bushing and bearing better

 

It looks like after overrun sleeve Sonnax did input piston sleeve
https://www.sonnax.com/parts/5628-in...ard-sleeve-kit
I think it should be one sleeve for both input and overrun zones at input shaft and with single outer dia to achieve more 'meat' at overrun area
Its not a problem to make such sleeve for myself
But It requires custom pistons
I already had broken input piston (my tranny with Sonnax HP-01 kit was made 18 bar at 1-2 and 15 at 3-4 and it was stock tune PCM )
Any ideas how to fabricate input piston ? Overrun is simple form and can be done without problem
Maybe cut inner dia of molded piston and weld (with cooling outer rubber of course) custom ring to make new seal bigger dia ?
Or it overkill and install only sonnax overrun sleeve and piston ? Or make ....
So many abilities with lathe ...

 

If you are speaking the forward piston, It would take some time, but you could cut it from steel bar the used lathe to cut and groove for regular seals . just have o find a center seal from something large enough or just do a fat oring like sonnax uses with he overun piston. The a milling macine for he rest . the just heat and bend out the holding tabs .

 

id like to check this out. Any links to it?

 

Unfortunately no . I only did it once and decided it was way to much trouble . However at one time someone did indeed make them as I found a few over the years in units . As I remember 700r4s .We did at one time have one at PB But I didn't have it so do not know what became of it. DANA at PROBUILT would probably be the most likely other person to have seen one or photographed one. Mine well while it was functional was IMO too ugly to photo so I did not. I usually do not show or publish something until I feel I have perfected it and never pursued it further. Though still think was neat Idea but was not my idea as someone somewhere did make them years ago.

 

so you don’t have any info on this billet drum so I try one out?

 

Sorry for confusion I thought you mean the brass lube seal lol. Let me dig back in my emails and ill find and post back .

 

I have messaged him. I did not follow up at the time https://www.facebook.com/pages/FI-Industries-LLC/332422936623345 If her responds ill post more .

 

I like the L79 drum was made
I think its stronger than Sonnax way with bolted cover
But of course Sonnax can make (and I think is) from stronger alloy than oem and no groove for snap ring that rob some place for higher stack of steel (when Im doing jatco tranny I always dream to take drum without groove so I can make where it needed )

Made overrun hole with thread to block it if I need

 

Can you explain a little more what that hole does and what other mods you have to do with it.Probably was explained,Must have missed it lol

 

Yep
It was about overrun mod above
I just not cut gasket as FRANK suggested and made more wide oil passage to make it engage and release more quickly

 

He is connecting the overun clutch to the fwd clutch oil. Also the two holes at bathtub in VB plate are blocked. This results in the overun clutch being on in all actual gears except 4th even when in D4 position, This provides support for the input sprag and IMO is one of the biggest changes that have allowed the 60e to reach power levels not seen prior to.
My method is also shown above he has just expanded on it .
Since I started doing this mod over 10 years ago, I have yet to see a single broken . locked or rolled sprag.

 

Ahhh ok got it,So block the 2 holes in the plate and instead of cutting gasket he drilled a hole,OK I remember seeing the post with the cut gasket,That will be a winter project,Thanks.

 

I know MaroonMonster has put his hands on one of those drums already awhile back. He wasnt too enthused about it at the time from what I remember.......said it was a little to Ching Chong Wing Wongy for his liking

 

Ah I did not know he had gotten one. Maybe I will pass checking one out. I was thinking of ordering one to look at. But while the idea of the 10mm larger 3-4 apply is exciting if the whole piece is cheesy $398 dollars just to look is pricey. Perhaps I will wait till maybe some day if the Impala stock drum fails and order one to try .
The only other way I would feel comfortable with using is if customer supplied and they were ok with the trial and risk . I had a customer once send me a cheaper 4 pinion version of the 1st gear reduction planet once like that. Luckily however it actually worked out fine PATC was making it. They however closed down mysteriously a while back permanently with no explanation sadly . They were a handy alternative at times for billet shafts and such when Not available from Sonnax.
But yes I think I will hold of on that for now with the drum. I am a one man show and dont have huge budget to just buy and look at stuff/ Well expensive stuff. I have bought and looked at some items most some servos and such that were off brands to find some were actually make than the sonnax etc. The 4th servo I got for instance had thicker actual servo disc. The part that hurt those was inferior seals and while the could use the Sonnax seals with the exception of the outter seals for the two serves (They used a thin oring instead Of D-rings.) To replace those with either D-RINGS or teflon required lathe time and the cost of the sonnax seal kit. I did fix the one and use in in a local unit machined it for Teflon OUTTERS I cut and found suitable INNER ORINGS for it . Even though its actual quality physically was IMO better than SONNAX and the price 45 dollars excellent . By the time you would buy the sonnax seals for it and or machine it to use them or teflon. It would IMO just not be worth the $ savings as you have as much or more in it with the time and seals.
But always willing to look at new stuff when feasible . The drum based on what you said Maroon said is not worth the 398 dollars. To bad though 10mm LARGER apply servo would be a big deal along with it being a new drum. This is the issue I have with the 4L75 drum. They ones I have seen and used some I had to press out the shaft and reseal when they came with one, But more concerning was they were used drums machined for the screw on top.
So I will stick with the sonnax as I do know they use new GM drums. I Tend to not trust reman drums unless I did it. As many places just cold press the shaft out . I have gotten a couple that DULL THUDDED the bell test (means cracked even if not visible) I use a process that does not stress the drum at all.
Sorry for long post response .Oh and not knocking the 4L75 drum just at that much money prefer new which is why unless customer supplied I use the sonnax when an upgraded drum is needed.I do wish Sonnax would step up to use the larger 350 style frictions though cause I do like their bolt on cap better.

 

I have the 4L79 drum in my car with the 300m billet input shaft and steel collar. I havnt had a Sonnax drum in my hands so hard for me to compare. But as I always say my opinion might not matter as much as some of you because I dont do near the units most do on here.

What would be great is if we can use the reverse clutches for 3rd.....with a factory valve body......maybe someday