Shown below:

 

How do you do this mod ?

 

I am working on the simplest method and will post when i have decided which is best ,

 

Note when using 4th servos and in particular the sonnax dual 4th that sticks out with rubber seals , It is important to reinstall the heat shield. With the exhaust and cats so close and the servo being a dead end flow wise, Once applied they fluid just sits there till released. temps can go extremely high and this can and will result in a break down of the seals sometimes in short order.
I saw a post recently a guy posted fussing cause he had a slipping 4th on facebook and when he removed the servo the seals have more or less disintegrated. He was not running a heat sheild and was fussing how hard to was to get out he had to remove the exhaust.
The servo is a dead end though I have considered adding an orifice to perhaps make a quicker apply and aid in cooling . So next to exhaust with no shield it will get very very hot in there and cause the seals to break down.
SO I do strongly advise the heat shield be reinstalled. Also failure to do so can result in damage and leaking at the electrical plug
https://scontent-bos5-1.xx.fbcdn.net...Nw&oe=66D42C37

 

This is a customer comment on my 2-3 shift set up with the machined 2-3 shift valve with added spring .

"Took the car to the track the other day, I had the shift points set where I had them on the old transmission, 1-2 6700, 2-3 6400. It would shift at 7k all day on this tune. 2-3 shifted at 65xx rpms. That’s real data showing how well your 2-3 shift setup does. It shifted great at wot in every gear. This is also with a significantly looser converter so even more impressive"

 

What is the spring size? or a comparable spring
Have you tried this with a sonnax valve?

 

back to this for a second and then another question for you.

A buddy of mine owns a trans repair shop (he’s why I started building these) and I picked up one of those plates. Once I added it, I had no clearance on the clutches. So I removed it. Yea, I could have done some lathe work but I was pressed heavily for time and the trans didn’t have it in there for the last three years and the clutches still looked new, so I rolled without it. Works fine. Although I would have felt better using it.

so a couple questions I’m interested in. Do you use the Teflon sealing rings on the pump? Or the scarf cut? I always use the Teflon and just use the tools I have to install and resize. The reason I ask is I have a high dollar trans on my bench right now and they used scarf cut. Weird.

next question. This is an 04-05 truck. The obviously didn’t use his trans as a core but I’m unsure of the year they used. The case is powder coated and the tag is gone, replaced with their logo. And they used “c” and “v” gaskets instead of “ca” and “vb” with a trans go separator plate. Honestly for the most part I feel like they did a good job on the unit except a few little things I don’t like. The main thing is the used a wide red alto band which is the harshest shifting band I’ve ever used. And I’m confused why the used the older gaskets on the valve body. Does it even matter?

 

On the seals they both do the job they are just reverse, Though I did run into an issue with reman drums a few years back . I had installed a rossler brake and it was really slow turning the brake on . Contacted Rossler they had me do this and that but nothing worked, I then got to doing some low pressure air checks through the pump and whla with the one piece rings at low pressure they leaked like a siff 40 to to about 60 lbs . I Then tried a new GM drum and well they did not. At the time the NEW GM and even Taiwan drums were hard to come by. But then I got curious and replace the solid rings with split blue rings from a 700r4 kit and boom the drum air checked perfect even at as low as 20 psi the lowest my regulator would let me go. Placed the trans back on DYNO with the split rings and boom slow engage issue fixed. I only mention this because it shows the split rings can certainly adjust for variance in bore size which of course should not exist but i found indeed does with some of the reman drums i have tested and measured. of note with none of the drums or rings was reverse ever an issue just the brake apply.
But I do use the solid because they are what comes in the 4l60e kit but have no issue with the scarf cut rings in this location.

Now I would not use them on the input shaft .

Yes I have heard of people not using that plate with the drum and having no issues , But I have also seen photos of the I call it a crown castle splayed out too, So I do install it I save them when i get 700r4 units to build as i always replace with 4l60e plates. I do know in the early days he actually sent one of those with the drum.
Another option is get one of the early taller castles and then cut a groove in the apply plate . I did that once but they are hard to come by .


I have seen the older gaskets used a number of times and not seen issue except tearing at converter regulator valve but this it seems to have caused no issue as these were long term running units. I use the bonded plates myself on everything except 93- 94 units . But when I have had to use gaskets , I use the late on everything as they seem to work with all fine over many years.

Red alto band , I had used those for years they are aggressive and prefer a scuffed less aggressive surface. However I STOPPED using them a couple years ago after i found three on three occasions where when flex the band which always do for some unknown reason. They delaminated right out of the box dry. I have been using the raybestos pro series wide band ever since when i do builds with the wide band. For stock builds I just use whatever comes in kit some green looking material but they seem to work just fine. Not seen an issue yet though they have no identifying marks of who made them.

 

Yes with the sonnax valve but only if some issue with the stock valve or if its older steel which are harder to cut. But since I do my overun mod on all units the sonnax valve while it will work in place of the stock one is pointless unless as I said you just need to replace the valve for some reason. The spring is from the harbor freight spring kit , I think if you scroll up a bit a post already exist showing which one it is and its dimensions.

 

Follow up with this, So far still happy with it, I did add a heater to it set at 125 f makes all work 10x better

 

thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I think I’ll start using the scarf rings, I don’t have the most expensive tools and it seems like I have trouble from time to time getting the teflon ones sized correctly.

I wanted to show you this too. I’ve run across this a few times. The hole where the lug is was punched incorrectly causing the band to sit up too high and I could feel it drag on the drum when assembled.





So what I’ll do is chamfer the lug hole in the case. Aggravating tho.

 

Is 1500w over kill? could you get away with a lower power unit?

 

When I worked at my former company we ran into a bunch like that and solved same way with a stepped drill cone from harbor freight and side drill made it easy.

 

Honestly I chose it because was on sale for 50 at the time and had thermostat. But I do like it can heat the water very quicky to temp.
The Hotter the water the better it cleans but 125 is about all i can stand with my hands. .

Oh and if you go to 150 it will melt the circulation pump lol. Bet ya cant guess how i know lol.

 

New change to my 3-4 set in all but the stage max, Instead of the thin plates with coolings holes , I have switched to using the HD apply and backing plates I Machine .060 off each on apply sides then machine a drop lip for the clip ring and using 8 thin frictions with .090 steels.
Some might think making the apply and backing thinner would cause more flex. I counter this with a crude but functional hardening process and it is my opinion the thicker steels .090 more than make up for overall rigidity and structural of the pack So 8 thin frictions with all but one steel being .090 and 1 .072 in the center of the pack.
This should greatly improve cooling, heat dissipation and structural integrity IMO.

 

Well I freshened up my sons trans a month ago. We put a 3800 yank in it. It was fine until he decided to tow a side by side with it. Lots of low speed driving where it wasn’t in lockup. 250 miles there and 250 miles back is how far he towed it. He called me when it was 252 degrees. It never ran over 180 before towing. Yes he had a cooler. The low speeds he wasn’t in lockup much. It stopped moving when he got home. Lost first and reverse for sure. It’ll move for a minute or so until it heats up. So now I get to do it again. You think towing about 2000lbs is a no go with a 3800 Convertor?

 

If he has tow haul mode and wants to use that stall , I would 1 go in and change settings to allow lockup at much lower speeds and throttle in tow mode. And of course honestly a triple disc is a must IMO for towing with a high stall .The low speed heavier throttle lockup may feel annoying but will keep temps down.
Last consider adding a fan like this one in the lower side out line from the trans. It moves a crap load of air .
As for the 3-4 set probably fused now , I would go 6-7 with thickest steels possible make sure no pull backs in tune during the 2-3 shift, May feel a bit clunky normal driving but a 3-4 clutch saver. also in tow haul if again the truck has it raise overall line about 10 percent along with shift points part throttle with the 3800 20 percent depending on how it feels, Holding the gears longer will keep RPM up near stall speed at low speeds reducing heat. Even with a 2800 I went up 15 percent on shift points and it made a world of difference in how the car felt arround town, Not so much of a slipping feel and remember any energy that does not go to the wheels is heat.
If he does not have a triple disc converter at least make duty cycle 99 and 100.

 

it’s got a 4l79 drum do no option of clutch pack changes. Truck it turbocharged too. I just talked to yank, before telling them he burned it up, I asked how much he could tow with that converter. He said it’s a 9.5” converter and there’s zero towing capability. It’ll build up too much heat and burn the trans up. I laughed and said, yep, you’re right. Because we found out first hand. He’s not going to tow with it anymore. I’m gonna go through it, fix it and do a few mods to it (2-4 band spray hole and a three friction overvrun, and a billet 4th gear servo)

o plus he was towing in overdrive. lol.

 

*facepalm*

 

I agree. I told him not to tow that **** with his truck. O well. Bout to cost him.