Broken Superior 4L60E 3rd Auumulator Switch - K0136?
#1
Broken Superior 4L60E 3rd Auumulator Switch - K0136?
Hello All,
Been awhile. Hope all is well.
Still building 4l60E's thanks to this forum and I hope everyone here is still having fun with our hobby.
Has anyone seen this before with the 4L60E Superior K0136? It's got about 20k miles on it. Please see before and after pics below.
Newly installed pic:
newly installed
After ~20k miles:
~20k miles
Been awhile. Hope all is well.
Still building 4l60E's thanks to this forum and I hope everyone here is still having fun with our hobby.
Has anyone seen this before with the 4L60E Superior K0136? It's got about 20k miles on it. Please see before and after pics below.
Newly installed pic:
newly installed
After ~20k miles:
~20k miles
#2
#3
I used to be a big fan of these
You'll probably find some of my old posts saying so
I've had a few give me headaches lately and one in my personal ride come back looking like yours...the spring starting to come out of the sleeve
I've stopped using them.
Good AC Delco capsule is just fine.
most of the times a firm tap with a brass punch on the stock ball/capsule will be enough to ensure it seats well and you can just run it as-is if you check it for leaks and it passes
You'll probably find some of my old posts saying so
I've had a few give me headaches lately and one in my personal ride come back looking like yours...the spring starting to come out of the sleeve
I've stopped using them.
Good AC Delco capsule is just fine.
most of the times a firm tap with a brass punch on the stock ball/capsule will be enough to ensure it seats well and you can just run it as-is if you check it for leaks and it passes
The following users liked this post:
FranksCustomTrans (06-18-2024)
#6
Thank you all for the input. Before posting here, I sent my question to Superior and their response was this:
"Not supposed to be out at all. Try to use a small pair of needle nose plyers and see if you can push down a little and twist clockwise. If won’t stay you’ll need a new one."
I thought this was ridiculous, as if twisting it back in place would somehow not make it untwist again. Also, no offer to send a new one.
Any thoughts on how to get this thing out? I'm thinking I'll try to tap it and bang it out with a slide.
Interested to hear what you all have tried that is successful.
Thanks again.
B
"Not supposed to be out at all. Try to use a small pair of needle nose plyers and see if you can push down a little and twist clockwise. If won’t stay you’ll need a new one."
I thought this was ridiculous, as if twisting it back in place would somehow not make it untwist again. Also, no offer to send a new one.
Any thoughts on how to get this thing out? I'm thinking I'll try to tap it and bang it out with a slide.
Interested to hear what you all have tried that is successful.
Thanks again.
B
#7
I have only used 2 of the Sonnax style and 1 had to be driven in very harshly. I didn't care for that at all and never purchased another.
I built my own "Air test plate" years ago after a OEM 3rd accumulator bit me hard. I tap the ball with a punch on every one after cleaning the case. Once it's out of the steam cabinet and cooled, I tap it with my 4oz. ball peen hammer. Then I test it with ATF for leaks to the inside of the case. I also use a angle pick to lift the ball and see that it leaks then seals again. After the transmission is together, the band has been adjusted & before the VB/separator plate is installed. I use my air test plate & 40 psi of air to check all the clutch packs, band apply & the 3rd release. The 3rd release requires 2 sources of air. 1 to use on the 2nd apply, then another to the 3rd release to make sure the band actually releases. It's quite the procedure trying to use my left hand to apply the 2 separate blow guns & my right hand to turn the output shaft clockwise to feel it stop & go. I keep meaning to build a slip yoke to hold a 40oz hammer, so it can hold it and then drop under it own weight but I only build 1-2 every 6 months now that I'm retired.
I built my own "Air test plate" years ago after a OEM 3rd accumulator bit me hard. I tap the ball with a punch on every one after cleaning the case. Once it's out of the steam cabinet and cooled, I tap it with my 4oz. ball peen hammer. Then I test it with ATF for leaks to the inside of the case. I also use a angle pick to lift the ball and see that it leaks then seals again. After the transmission is together, the band has been adjusted & before the VB/separator plate is installed. I use my air test plate & 40 psi of air to check all the clutch packs, band apply & the 3rd release. The 3rd release requires 2 sources of air. 1 to use on the 2nd apply, then another to the 3rd release to make sure the band actually releases. It's quite the procedure trying to use my left hand to apply the 2 separate blow guns & my right hand to turn the output shaft clockwise to feel it stop & go. I keep meaning to build a slip yoke to hold a 40oz hammer, so it can hold it and then drop under it own weight but I only build 1-2 every 6 months now that I'm retired.
The following users liked this post:
bbond105 (06-20-2024)
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#8
I have only used 2 of the Sonnax style and 1 had to be driven in very harshly. I didn't care for that at all and never purchased another.
I built my own "Air test plate" years ago after a OEM 3rd accumulator bit me hard. I tap the ball with a punch on every one after cleaning the case. Once it's out of the steam cabinet and cooled, I tap it with my 4oz. ball peen hammer. Then I test it with ATF for leaks to the inside of the case. I also use a angle pick to lift the ball and see that it leaks then seals again. After the transmission is together, the band has been adjusted & before the VB/separator plate is installed. I use my air test plate & 40 psi of air to check all the clutch packs, band apply & the 3rd release. The 3rd release requires 2 sources of air. 1 to use on the 2nd apply, then another to the 3rd release to make sure the band actually releases. It's quite the procedure trying to use my left hand to apply the 2 separate blow guns & my right hand to turn the output shaft clockwise to feel it stop & go. I keep meaning to build a slip yoke to hold a 40oz hammer, so it can hold it and then drop under it own weight but I only build 1-2 every 6 months now that I'm retired.
I built my own "Air test plate" years ago after a OEM 3rd accumulator bit me hard. I tap the ball with a punch on every one after cleaning the case. Once it's out of the steam cabinet and cooled, I tap it with my 4oz. ball peen hammer. Then I test it with ATF for leaks to the inside of the case. I also use a angle pick to lift the ball and see that it leaks then seals again. After the transmission is together, the band has been adjusted & before the VB/separator plate is installed. I use my air test plate & 40 psi of air to check all the clutch packs, band apply & the 3rd release. The 3rd release requires 2 sources of air. 1 to use on the 2nd apply, then another to the 3rd release to make sure the band actually releases. It's quite the procedure trying to use my left hand to apply the 2 separate blow guns & my right hand to turn the output shaft clockwise to feel it stop & go. I keep meaning to build a slip yoke to hold a 40oz hammer, so it can hold it and then drop under it own weight but I only build 1-2 every 6 months now that I'm retired.
Thanks for sharing your quality control procedures. I know it helps your customers greatly. I've never used the Sonnax style 3rd accumulator solution. I've been told by multiple people on this forum to avoid it. This thread is referring to the Superior K0136 3rd accumulator solution which was suggested on this forum and delivered good results, but is now being discovered to have some reliability issues and people are going back to the tried and true check ball capsule that you referenced in your post. Thanks for the troubleshooting tips!
Last edited by Brando1118Burb; 06-24-2024 at 09:47 AM.
#9
Thank you all for the input. Before posting here, I sent my question to Superior and their response was this:
"Not supposed to be out at all. Try to use a small pair of needle nose plyers and see if you can push down a little and twist clockwise. If won’t stay you’ll need a new one."
I thought this was ridiculous, as if twisting it back in place would somehow not make it untwist again. Also, no offer to send a new one.
Any thoughts on how to get this thing out? I'm thinking I'll try to tap it and bang it out with a slide.
Interested to hear what you all have tried that is successful.
Thanks again.
B
"Not supposed to be out at all. Try to use a small pair of needle nose plyers and see if you can push down a little and twist clockwise. If won’t stay you’ll need a new one."
I thought this was ridiculous, as if twisting it back in place would somehow not make it untwist again. Also, no offer to send a new one.
Any thoughts on how to get this thing out? I'm thinking I'll try to tap it and bang it out with a slide.
Interested to hear what you all have tried that is successful.
Thanks again.
B