4l60e hd2 kit
I haven't done Frank's over run mod yet. From the pics that I have seen, it looks like you cut the gasket wrong. I would not think that the check ball in this location would be used. If I'm wrong here hopefully Frank will correct me.
There are two check ***** on the case side one at the very back of the case that is encapsulated, and one for the 4th gear accumulator. If you have blocked the 4th gear accumulator this, check ball can be omitted. The check ball at the back of the case can also be omitted.
There are two check ***** on the case side one at the very back of the case that is encapsulated, and one for the 4th gear accumulator. If you have blocked the 4th gear accumulator this, check ball can be omitted. The check ball at the back of the case can also be omitted.
You leave out the bathtub ball. You can either leave in the overun ball or not does not matter , I generally leave it in
__________________
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook

Last edited by FranksCustomTrans; Feb 12, 2025 at 05:12 PM.
In VB LEAVE OUT THE BATHTUB BALL AND IF YOU LIKE THE OVERUN BALL NEXT TO IT , DOES NOT REALLY MATTER WITH IT.
As for case as long as you have blocked the 4th acum then no reason to a ball there.
Other ***** in case low/rev ball at back of case you can remove or leave, removing might make a more aggressive rev apply
Of course the ball in the case near servo inside capsul must be there.
Hope I covered all .
Frank
I am a bit confused but I think you are asking
In VB LEAVE OUT THE BATHTUB BALL AND IF YOU LIKE THE OVERUN BALL NEXT TO IT , DOES NOT REALLY MATTER WITH IT.
As for case as long as you have blocked the 4th acum then no reason to a ball there.
Other ***** in case low/rev ball at back of case you can remove or leave, removing might make a more aggressive rev apply
Of course the ball in the case near servo inside capsul must be there.
Hope I covered all .
Frank
In VB LEAVE OUT THE BATHTUB BALL AND IF YOU LIKE THE OVERUN BALL NEXT TO IT , DOES NOT REALLY MATTER WITH IT.
As for case as long as you have blocked the 4th acum then no reason to a ball there.
Other ***** in case low/rev ball at back of case you can remove or leave, removing might make a more aggressive rev apply
Of course the ball in the case near servo inside capsul must be there.
Hope I covered all .
Frank
thank you!
Well guys i messed up..
i got a chance to finish this up, finally, and i couldnt get the pump to seat all the way back in.
I must have forced it too much (i was tightening down the bolts with a rachet) and it just didn’t seem tight. I kept taking it back off and checking things, but in reality i don’t really know what to look for. The reverse drum seemed like it was low enough, so i did it a final time and there was a low kinda quiet pop that i got.
At that point the input shaft would only turn one direction. It would lock going the other way. So i ended up pulling the valvebody and everything back off, took out the input drum and removed the 3-4 clutches.
They must not have been lined up, because i bent the little splines.I gues when i remived the pump I pulled the whole assembly out and twisted it. So now i need a new 3-4 clutchpack, which i guess is ok, im sure an upgrade wouldnt hurt.
Any recommendations for a good one, with the modifications I have already done? BTT, this is a pretty decent turbo HP rig, about 5000lbs.
Also, any point in upgrading to a wider band for my application? For that I would have to buy a new drum correct? Is that upgraded needed? Does that mean every time you replace a band, even stock size, that the drum is to be replaced?
I have read mixed results on leaving out the 3/4 release springs/holders, as well as drilling the 3/4 steels for oil lube holes. I could do that at work (drill and chamfer) is that something good to do/upgrade? Do that with my old steels or new ones?
thanks guys
i got a chance to finish this up, finally, and i couldnt get the pump to seat all the way back in.
I must have forced it too much (i was tightening down the bolts with a rachet) and it just didn’t seem tight. I kept taking it back off and checking things, but in reality i don’t really know what to look for. The reverse drum seemed like it was low enough, so i did it a final time and there was a low kinda quiet pop that i got.
At that point the input shaft would only turn one direction. It would lock going the other way. So i ended up pulling the valvebody and everything back off, took out the input drum and removed the 3-4 clutches.
They must not have been lined up, because i bent the little splines.I gues when i remived the pump I pulled the whole assembly out and twisted it. So now i need a new 3-4 clutchpack, which i guess is ok, im sure an upgrade wouldnt hurt.
Any recommendations for a good one, with the modifications I have already done? BTT, this is a pretty decent turbo HP rig, about 5000lbs.
Also, any point in upgrading to a wider band for my application? For that I would have to buy a new drum correct? Is that upgraded needed? Does that mean every time you replace a band, even stock size, that the drum is to be replaced?
I have read mixed results on leaving out the 3/4 release springs/holders, as well as drilling the 3/4 steels for oil lube holes. I could do that at work (drill and chamfer) is that something good to do/upgrade? Do that with my old steels or new ones?
thanks guys
Last edited by Cherrybomb; Feb 25, 2025 at 01:01 PM.
Well guys i messed up..
i got a chance to finish this up, finally, and i couldnt get the pump to seat all the way back in.
I must have forced it too much (i was tightening down the bolts with a rachet) and it just didn’t seem tight. I kept taking it back off and checking things, but in reality i don’t really know what to look for. The reverse drum seemed like it was low enough, so i did it a final time and there was a low kinda quiet pop that i got.
At that point the input shaft would only turn one direction. It would lock going the other way. So i ended up pulling the valvebody and everything back off, took out the input drum and removed the 3-4 clutches.
They must not have been lined up, because i bent the little splines. So now i need a new 3-4 clutchpack, which i guess is ok, im sure an upgrade wouldnt hurt.
Any recommendations for a good one, with the modifications I have already done? BTT, this is a pretty decent turbo HP rig, about 5000lbs.
Also, any point in upgrading to a wider band for my application? For that I would have to buy a new drum correct? Is that upgraded needed? Does that mean every time you replace a band, even stock size, that the drum is to be replaced?
I have read mixed results on leaving out the 3/4 release springs/holders, as well as drilling the 3/4 steels for oil lube holes. I could do that at work (drill and chamfer) is that something good to do/upgrade? Do that with my old steels or new ones?
thanks guys
i got a chance to finish this up, finally, and i couldnt get the pump to seat all the way back in.
I must have forced it too much (i was tightening down the bolts with a rachet) and it just didn’t seem tight. I kept taking it back off and checking things, but in reality i don’t really know what to look for. The reverse drum seemed like it was low enough, so i did it a final time and there was a low kinda quiet pop that i got.
At that point the input shaft would only turn one direction. It would lock going the other way. So i ended up pulling the valvebody and everything back off, took out the input drum and removed the 3-4 clutches.
They must not have been lined up, because i bent the little splines. So now i need a new 3-4 clutchpack, which i guess is ok, im sure an upgrade wouldnt hurt.
Any recommendations for a good one, with the modifications I have already done? BTT, this is a pretty decent turbo HP rig, about 5000lbs.
Also, any point in upgrading to a wider band for my application? For that I would have to buy a new drum correct? Is that upgraded needed? Does that mean every time you replace a band, even stock size, that the drum is to be replaced?
I have read mixed results on leaving out the 3/4 release springs/holders, as well as drilling the 3/4 steels for oil lube holes. I could do that at work (drill and chamfer) is that something good to do/upgrade? Do that with my old steels or new ones?
thanks guys
i dont realy have a way to check it other than put a straight edge across it and use feeler gauges or plastigage? We have a lathe at work in maintenance but it is not hooked up for use yet.





