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My 2010 1500 Silverado Recently lost reverse and neutral in transmission (luckily I was just pulling into my driveway) and decided to remove and rebuild. I have had this truck for a year and prior to the rebuild it seemed like the truck would take a "moment" to engage into reverse and/or drive from park after shifting and likewise between reverse and drive.
I am following the transmission bench instructional videos and am now onto part 2 reassembly. I have gone down many rabbit holes regarding parts and mods to make the transmission more durable. I have a shopping cart started with rock auto and am just trying to finish up with ordering parts I need to start rebuild. For context do not use this truck as a daily driver, I mostly use it for occasionally hauling personal home improvement supplies and yard work (dirt, trees and lumber). I also intend to occasionally put a smaller camper on it for the summer.
My rock auto cart contains the following:
-Sonnax transmission band,-
-sonnax LB2 boost valve-
-sonnax input drum reinforcement kit-
-sonnax sun gear shell-
-sonnax Corvette servo-
-sonnax heavy duty 2-3 shift valve-
-transgo 46plt09 valve body separator plate-
-Raybestos friction RCP96087 (I have read borgwerner frictions are best but they are not on rock auto site)-
-Raybestos steels RCP000752
I haven't gone through all the hardware in the transmission that may need replacing. I am still looking for full bushing replacement kit and trying to figure out what rebuild kit I want for all the gaskets, filters seals snap rings ect.
Any thoughts? Cheers
As 2BFAST said Whatever It Takes Transmissions is a trans parts whole seller that is friendly to the DIYer. I have found that is cheaper to call their local to you store and create an account than it is to just order off of their website.
For a stockish rebuild with stock HP I would drop these parts from your list. Feel they are not needed for your application. The 2010 trans GM has addressed the sun shell problem so no need to upgrade here. -sonnax input drum reinforcement kit-
-sonnax heavy duty 2-3 shift valve-
-sonnax sun gear shell-
Raybestos or Alto frictions will work just find. The important thing is to address all of the 3rd clutch circuit oil leaks.
As 2BFAST said Whatever It Takes Transmissions is a trans parts whole seller that is friendly to the DIYer. I have found that is cheaper to call their local to you store and create an account than it is to just order off of their website.
For a stockish rebuild with stock HP I would drop these parts from your list. Feel they are not needed for your application. The 2010 trans GM has addressed the sun shell problem so no need to upgrade here. -sonnax input drum reinforcement kit-
-sonnax heavy duty 2-3 shift valve-
-sonnax sun gear shell-
Raybestos or Alto frictions will work just find. The important thing is to address all of the 3rd clutch circuit oil leaks.
Thanks for advice on dropping unnecessary parts as well transmission parts source.
This article seemed to have alot of good tips to address this issue, most of which I did not understand but hopefully I will get around to checking out all the possible culprits.
The gentleman from Transmission Bench also sells master overhaul kits that have most of what you need, except for any hard parts of course.
I used his kit and instructional video for the 4L80e several years ago. But Whatever It Takes (WIT) is another great option. I have a WIT locally and have bought misc. stuff from them before.
Last edited by strutaeng; Jan 16, 2025 at 11:36 AM.
As 2BFAST said Whatever It Takes Transmissions is a trans parts whole seller that is friendly to the DIYer. I have found that is cheaper to call their local to you store and create an account than it is to just order off of their website.
For a stockish rebuild with stock HP I would drop these parts from your list. Feel they are not needed for your application. The 2010 trans GM has addressed the sun shell problem so no need to upgrade here. -sonnax input drum reinforcement kit-
-sonnax heavy duty 2-3 shift valve-
-sonnax sun gear shell-
Raybestos or Alto frictions will work just find. The important thing is to address all of the 3rd clutch circuit oil leaks.
Agree on all the above and yes any of the frictions sets should be fine ALTO RAYBESTOS even ALLOMATIC.
I would add machining or replacing the rev input drum unless its perfect flat which is rare. Use the BEAST or GFX shell sonnax overkill. Though the stock late model shell is pretty heafy itself .
Consider adding my FTOVERUN mod it is a simple mod and greatly increases durability of the input sprag with both performance and towing and eliminates the old "dont tow in overdrive" saying. You can find it in the 4L60E tips trick thread I started. https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...l#post20534111
REPLACE REV AND FWD bore plugs a must also end caps or better oringed ones for the 4-3 valve and converter regulator valve.
Check for leaks at the shaft to input drum. SOME REMOVE all of them and use sealer and reinstall which is fine. However Its my fear unless removal done properly IMO the risk to damage the drum is too great to do if the drum is not leaking to start with.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Thanks for advice guys. I will order a rebuild kit from transmission bench as there doesn't seem to be and WIT shops around where I live.
I will look into the FToverrun mod and replace fwd and rev bore plugs as well as end caps for 3-4 valve and converter reg valve (will have to look that up later). I took apart input drum and have found problem: welded friction and steel in forward clutch pack. Even my amateur eyes can tell that the frictions are destroyed and most don't even feel like they have any friction material left.
Was his because it was getting too hot for some reason?
Cheers
I watched this YouTube video and the guy said around 3:40 in that if the clutch disc is welded to steel it's like the same as having the piston apply the clutch. When you put it reverse it's like having both the reverse and the forward clutches applied. My truck wouldnt go into neutral either. (When in neutral and on jack stands the wheels actually were turning in forward direction). The symptoms seem correspond like what the fellow is describing in the video. Any thoughts?
Here are some pics of my reverse and low reverse frictions and steels:
I haven't taken apply piston out yet because I have to modify my spring compressor tool and I gotta go to sleep.
Its normal for the wheels to drive somewhat with the wheels off the ground. Did they drive when they were on the ground?
I didn't try to drive it in neutral but I did try to push it backwards in neutral and it would not budge. I tried shifting between reverse and neutral while truck was on and it seemed to inch a wee bit forward after shifting into neutral.
It helps stop potential pressure loss to the solenoids.
Another worthwhile mod is blocking the 4th accumulator. It gives a much more positive 3-4 shift.
What kind of torque converter are you planning to use? Are you going to add a transmission cooler (you should)?
Last of all, you should read through some of the 4L60 build threads on here to learn other tips and tricks. Take your time, and ask plenty of questions.
Thanks for info dixiebandit69. I will install the AFL valve and I like the idea of blocking the 4th accumulator with a 5/16s set screw. As for the torque convertor I was just going to use the one that is already in the truck. I'm away from home right now so I'm not sure what type of torque convertor it is but I assume it is the stock convertor that came with the truck Should this be something I should look at/ consider changing out? The truck also has a stock transmission radiator/cooler as well which I hope is adequate.
Thanks for info dixiebandit69. I will install the AFL valve and I like the idea of blocking the 4th accumulator with a 5/16s set screw. As for the torque convertor I was just going to use the one that is already in the truck. I'm away from home right now so I'm not sure what type of torque convertor it is but I assume it is the stock convertor that came with the truck Should this be something I should look at/ consider changing out? The truck also has a stock transmission radiator/cooler as well which I hope is adequate.
I would get a replacement stock converter if that is what you are happy with. I would not re-use the one you have right now as it is pretty much impossible to flush it out completely.
Been trying to figure out why my forward clutch ended up being the most burnt up clutch pack. One of the reasons I've heard is excessive wear or failure of sealing ring(s) causing leakage around the feed ports. Any thoughts?
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First time 4L60e transmission build 
