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Hello, im having some transmission issues and trying to see if anyone has any ideas. So i had a transmission rebuilt by a local guy ( who is no longer in the state) using a pro built automatics pro street kit. I recently got around to firing the car up and seeing if it moves under its own power, goes in reverse and backs right out of the garage, put it in first to go down the road again no problem. At first it would only shift to 2nd under high rpms (around 4k) then letting off the throttle according to the data logging it is hitting 3 and 4 although it seems like weird times when it shifts. The last drive it shifted to 2nd by its self but around 5k rpms. Watching my monitor and datalog i can see the holley terminator system telling it to shift but it doesnt want to listen so its kinda shifting when it wants to. i recently dropped the pan to look around and see if anything seemed out of place or odd and it didnt , oil was perfectly clean. Verified dipstick was in the correct place to get the correct level. I guess the next step would be to get a pressure gauge on it and make sure that is good but figured id ask if anyone had any ideas before i put the pan back on, thanks
1st make sure you have adequate power to pin "E" of the transmission connector. I use a pigtail I rigged up. Here's why, 1 strand of wire to that solenoid will show 12V. It will not be able to pass enough amperage to operate the solenoids. The lamp loads the wire and if it lights the bulb you are good to go.
Then I would attempt to manually shift the transmission via the wires coming from the transmission to the terminator box. Hopefully Holley gave you a wiring schematic. It should be fairly easy to take control away from the Holley terminator box and ground the shift solenoid wires yourself.
Doing that will at least tell you if it is able to shift earlier.
The "box" or PCM (in an OE setup) supplies power to the solenoids with the KOER (Key On Engine Running). The PCM supplies a ground to the solenoids. The OE uses the TPS, MAF/MAP & VSS to calculate shift speeds. If I'm not mistaken Holley only uses the TPS for it to calculate.
So anyway the grounds go like this.
1st = solenoid "A" & "B" are grounded
2nd = solenoid "A" is ungrounded, "B" stays grounded
3rd = solenoid "A" & "B" are ungrounded
4th = solenoid "A" is grounded, "B" stays ungrounded
Also go into the transmission ICF and make sure the it has the right transmission selected and also look at the shift tables,And if you can post a pic of the trans tables on here.
Also go into the transmission ICF and make sure the it has the right transmission selected and also look at the shift tables,And if you can post a pic of the trans tables on here.
correct trans is selected and I'll get some pics of the tables tonight, but ya I can see the holley asking for shifts, trans just doesn't wanna listen lol
If the tranmission ICF and shift tables are good,Then it's possible the trans has to come back out.
thats kinda been in the back of my mind but just for the heck of it I ordered new solenoids and a pressure switch, ill hook a gauge to in and see what my pressure is
Also go into the transmission ICF and make sure the it has the right transmission selected and also look at the shift tables,And if you can post a pic of the trans tables on here.
Just a thought, wouldn't checking for the command signal be the nest step? Rather than diving into the transmission? Are you sure the solenoids are getting the commands?
You know like some bad wire connections, connector itself, or drivers on the board?
Just a thought, wouldn't checking for the command signal be the nest step? Rather than diving into the transmission? Are you sure the solenoids are getting the commands?
You know like some bad wire connections, connector itself, or drivers on the board?
Thats a good idea to, guess ill have to figure out how to do it with the terminator, I dont think you can command shifts like with a scan tool
You sure you have the correct amount of trans fluid.Pictures didn't come out.
yes verified the dipstick reading was in the correct location when I pulled the pan, and im not sure what to do about the pics, they show up on my screen
That is the # 2 check-ball for the 3rd accumulator. Here is my GM technician guides description of it's function. #2 3RD ACCUMULATOR
Located in the valve body, the 3rd accumulator ball check valve
directs exhausting 3rd accumulator fluid through orifice #12
and to the 3-2 control valve. This helps control the 2-4 band
apply during a 3-2 downshift. During a 3-4 upshift, 3-4 clutch
fluid unseats the ball for a quick feed into the 3rd accumulator
fluid circuit.
Note: Some models do not include orifice #12 in the spacer
plate. For these models, all exhausting 3rd accumulator fluid is
routed to the 3-2 control valve.
And after getting back under there it looks like inwas wrong again, it's supposed to be missing the hole is blocked
Unusual , Not seen anyone do that with the 4L60E, I have with the 700r4. But I would not do with either as while the ball blocks the 3rd accum/ band release oil forcing it through the smaller hole . It it when downshifting to second is part of the 3-4 clutch release (large hole) .
But I do not see where it would cause any of the other issues you have mentioned, I would think is anything it would just make the 3-2 perhaps sorta sluggish.
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
Unusual , Not seen anyone do that with the 4L60E, I have with the 700r4. But I would not do with either as while the ball blocks the 3rd accum/ band release oil forcing it through the smaller hole . It it when downshifting to second is part of the 3-4 clutch release (large hole) .
But I do not see where it would cause any of the other issues you have mentioned, I would think is anything it would just make the 3-2 perhaps sorta sluggish.
yea I dunno what's going on, gonna go through the valvebody with the manual to see if anything is outta place, other than that im about to just buy another transmission lol
yea I dunno what's going on, gonna go through the valvebody with the manual to see if anything is outta place, other than that im about to just buy another transmission lol
Hey I know a Guy lol
__________________ Frank formerly of Performabuilt, Now just me, What can I build for you today? Call or message me. Click sig pic for my facebook
On the valve body check all the plungers for proper movement and make sure they dont stick. You can also vacuum test, or have the valve body vacuum tested for excess leaks.
Could also be sticking solenoid depending on quality. Had a friend put amazon solenoids in his trans and surprise, it didn't work. . . if you didn't get yours, who knows where they got them from.
When it does shift, is it sluggish, normal, or firm? If all the signals are being sent and recieved it could be a crappy valve body issues.
I would toss a valve body at it to see if you get any improvement before I would go full trans, but that's just me.
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rebuilt 4l60e issues 
