4L60E vs 4L85E
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 53
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4L60E vs 4L85E Guys:
I need help.I own a 99 trans am with a 4l60e.I am planning to install 4.10 gears a Ls-6 intake, 90mm Maf sensor,1030cfm throttle body,long tubes headders with a loud mouth exhaust and a stage 2 heads and cam combo.
my question is WHAT WOULD YOU GUYS DO? BUY A 4L60E FROM FLP OR ROSSLER OR INSTALL A 4L85E? IF 4L85E IS YOUR CHOICE CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO BUY ONE? WHAT WOULD I NEED TO MAKE THE SWAP?
THANK YOU GUY FOR YOUR HELP I AM NEW TO PERFORMANCE AND NEED YOUR GUIDANCE
I need help.I own a 99 trans am with a 4l60e.I am planning to install 4.10 gears a Ls-6 intake, 90mm Maf sensor,1030cfm throttle body,long tubes headders with a loud mouth exhaust and a stage 2 heads and cam combo.
my question is WHAT WOULD YOU GUYS DO? BUY A 4L60E FROM FLP OR ROSSLER OR INSTALL A 4L85E? IF 4L85E IS YOUR CHOICE CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO BUY ONE? WHAT WOULD I NEED TO MAKE THE SWAP?
THANK YOU GUY FOR YOUR HELP I AM NEW TO PERFORMANCE AND NEED YOUR GUIDANCE
You can buy a brand new 4L85-E from any place that sells GM Performance Parts.
A completely STOCK 4L85-E is more durable than a built 4L60/65-E.
Some might argue that it's a matter of cost and what you are willing to afford. Having been down the "built 60/65" route personally, I can tell you that the 80/85 is the best choice if you're into this car for the long haul. The upgrade is, in a sense, a long-term investment.
As far as your setup goes, the built-up 4L60-E would probably provide acceptable longevity without forced induction or nitrous oxide. I wound think you could expect 40,000 miles out of a properly built one. (I got 26,000 out of my built 4L60-E with more power and weight.)
A completely STOCK 4L85-E is more durable than a built 4L60/65-E.
Some might argue that it's a matter of cost and what you are willing to afford. Having been down the "built 60/65" route personally, I can tell you that the 80/85 is the best choice if you're into this car for the long haul. The upgrade is, in a sense, a long-term investment.
As far as your setup goes, the built-up 4L60-E would probably provide acceptable longevity without forced induction or nitrous oxide. I wound think you could expect 40,000 miles out of a properly built one. (I got 26,000 out of my built 4L60-E with more power and weight.)
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Will It Bolt Right In? [QUOTE=James B.]You can buy a brand new 4L85-E from any place that sells GM Performance Parts.
A completely STOCK 4L85-E is more durable than a built 4L60/65-E.
Some might argue that it's a matter of cost and what you are willing to afford. Having been down the "built 60/65" route personally, I can tell you that the 80/85 is the best choice if you're into this car for the long haul. The upgrade is, in a sense, a long-term investment.
As far as your setup goes, the built-up 4L60-E would probably provide acceptable longevity without forced induction or nitrous oxide. I wound think you could expect 40,000 miles out of a properly built one. (I got 26,000 out of my built 4L60-E with more power and weight.)
WHAT WOULD I NEED TO PUT THE 4L85E IN MY 99 LS-1?
A completely STOCK 4L85-E is more durable than a built 4L60/65-E.
Some might argue that it's a matter of cost and what you are willing to afford. Having been down the "built 60/65" route personally, I can tell you that the 80/85 is the best choice if you're into this car for the long haul. The upgrade is, in a sense, a long-term investment.
As far as your setup goes, the built-up 4L60-E would probably provide acceptable longevity without forced induction or nitrous oxide. I wound think you could expect 40,000 miles out of a properly built one. (I got 26,000 out of my built 4L60-E with more power and weight.)
WHAT WOULD I NEED TO PUT THE 4L85E IN MY 99 LS-1?
Originally Posted by jjnitrox
WHAT WOULD I NEED TO PUT THE 4L85E IN MY 99 LS-1?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/200630-4l60-swap-4l80.html
And this one:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic-transmission/197705-whats-most-reliable-tranny-a4-700-rwhp.html
You might want to PM Jammer for more info.
A 4L80-E swap will cost you more than a TH400 swap but you'll be rewarded with drivability.
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 439
Likes: 1
From: burbank ca
one more time
Originally Posted by black 2001Vette,Nightmare
4L85E, would be my choice. I've rebuilt my 4L60E 3 times so far!
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 137
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Originally Posted by john kilgore
once again the math for the 4L60E is (3.06-1)X.30,.30 is the od,=(.62+1) is second what part of a shi_ trans don't you understand. it was made for a 2.8 s10 ,quit pounding sand. as soon as you disconnect the torque control the trans dies daaaa
My question is...will it ever be possible to put a 4L85E into a C5, with out spending a small fortune, in redesign??? A tranny builder at PATC told me this has been done overseas, somewhere in the middleeast I think, but I haven't spoken to anyone with a C5 that has one.
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John Meany has a 4l80 in his C4...if that helps.
Originally Posted by black 2001Vette,Nightmare
I think Mr. Kilgore is a little frustrated that talk continues about how to make a 4l60e live, when he has pointed out that it will not live(for long).
My question is...will it ever be possible to put a 4L85E into a C5, with out spending a small fortune, in redesign??? A tranny builder at PATC told me this has been done overseas, somewhere in the middleeast I think, but I haven't spoken to anyone with a C5 that has one.
My question is...will it ever be possible to put a 4L85E into a C5, with out spending a small fortune, in redesign??? A tranny builder at PATC told me this has been done overseas, somewhere in the middleeast I think, but I haven't spoken to anyone with a C5 that has one.
Yes we do all know the 4L60E just isn't the best tranny to go with, but it is what we have had to use without major moding and still keeping OD for years.
I am on number 5 in on car number 2 in another (6700 miles)
and 9 in a buddy's car.
Thank God for warrenty.
I am on number 5 in on car number 2 in another (6700 miles)
and 9 in a buddy's car.
Thank God for warrenty.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 9,246
Likes: 3
From: Troy, AL
I have about 30,000 miles on my 4L60-E. 423 RWHP. The track results? 11.20 at 121.5 MPH with a 3525 lb raceweight and stock 3.23 gears (man I love the 4L60-E's 3.06 1st gear!) Still gets 23.5 MPH at 80 MPH too. The mods to the tranny? A TCI shift kit and a tranny cooler. Stock clutches, stock everything. And the 4L60-E sucks? 
Sure, if you're running 9s or better it does but for the majority of us it's a great little tranny when built correctly. 
John K., you're in the wrong place to be constantly bad mouthing the 4L60-E. We're fully aware of it's limitations...and it's advantages!
Sure, if you're running 9s or better it does but for the majority of us it's a great little tranny when built correctly. John K., you're in the wrong place to be constantly bad mouthing the 4L60-E. We're fully aware of it's limitations...and it's advantages!
Colonel
My stock tranny lasted 25,000 miles with hundreds of passes on it .Since I upped the hp I keep smoking 3rd gear clutches. Im impressed at how long your tranny has lasted . I wish I could get lucky just once. 13 4l60e trannys in the last year alone. The last 2 have been stockers with under 50,000 miles I got from crashed cars for cheap. But ofcourse they have lasted the longest but after afew thousand miles they start to slip during the 2-3 shift and I start banging the rev limter. I really should just stop the nightmare and put a th400 or a 4l80 into the car but I keep hanging onto hope because I really like these tranys when they work. I cant see droping another 2500 on a rosslier or a flp when I have freinds that have smoked both types multiple times and ended up with th350`s or th400`s in the end. Any advice ???
My stock tranny lasted 25,000 miles with hundreds of passes on it .Since I upped the hp I keep smoking 3rd gear clutches. Im impressed at how long your tranny has lasted . I wish I could get lucky just once. 13 4l60e trannys in the last year alone. The last 2 have been stockers with under 50,000 miles I got from crashed cars for cheap. But ofcourse they have lasted the longest but after afew thousand miles they start to slip during the 2-3 shift and I start banging the rev limter. I really should just stop the nightmare and put a th400 or a 4l80 into the car but I keep hanging onto hope because I really like these tranys when they work. I cant see droping another 2500 on a rosslier or a flp when I have freinds that have smoked both types multiple times and ended up with th350`s or th400`s in the end. Any advice ???
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 9,246
Likes: 3
From: Troy, AL
Ok, so the high dollar trannys are out for you. I would advise calling up Kevin Steele at TCI. Ask him what parts you need to make your tranny take the punishment. This will include the 2nd and 4th servos, clutch packs, band, and shift kit. If you have plans for BIG power then tell him you need "the works" which will also include a five pinion front and rear planet set, a hardened drum and input shaft among other things.) He'll set you on the right path. I highly recommend TCI's shift kit. The most important thing is that you use a really good builder who knows these transmissions.
A few more checkpoints for minimizing risk...
Use a stock calibrated MAF (or if you want to use a vacume modulator this doesn't matter.)
Use stock PCM line pressure settings with a shift kit.
Keep the temps below 200 degrees at ALL times. Monitor this *closely*.
NEVER manually shift the tranny.
Race with the selector in OD. Not 1,2, or 3 (D).
Keep fluid level perfect.
Be sure that all tranny lines are of adequate size and are not crimped in any way.
A few more checkpoints for minimizing risk...
Use a stock calibrated MAF (or if you want to use a vacume modulator this doesn't matter.)
Use stock PCM line pressure settings with a shift kit.
Keep the temps below 200 degrees at ALL times. Monitor this *closely*.
NEVER manually shift the tranny.
Race with the selector in OD. Not 1,2, or 3 (D).
Keep fluid level perfect.
Be sure that all tranny lines are of adequate size and are not crimped in any way.
