HPP3 settings for A4
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,447
Likes: 6
From: Grand Junction, CO / Tomball, TX
HPP3 settings for A4 I dont want to mess anything up on my other than free mods stock 2000 z28, so if you guys could give me some info on what to program as far as shift points and firmness and anything else i would greatly appreciate it.
that thing is a piece of ****!!!!!! u should sell it and get hptuners that what im doin. it made me loose rwhp. the only good thing is shift points.
i put mine 1-2 gear -4
2-3 gear -2
3-4 gear 0
i can feel a differnce and i raised my rev limiter to 6300 rpm
100% shift firmness
but as soon as i save up some money im gettin hptuners
i put mine 1-2 gear -4
2-3 gear -2
3-4 gear 0
i can feel a differnce and i raised my rev limiter to 6300 rpm
100% shift firmness
but as soon as i save up some money im gettin hptuners
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
From: Chattanoga TN
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
It is pointless to shift over 6100 with stock cam not to mention valvefloat
Originally Posted by nyg215
that thing is a piece of ****!!!!!! u should sell it and get hptuners that what im doin. it made me loose rwhp. the only good thing is shift points.
i put mine 1-2 gear -4
2-3 gear -2
3-4 gear 0
i can feel a differnce and i raised my rev limiter to 6300 rpm
100% shift firmness
but as soon as i save up some money im gettin hptuners
i put mine 1-2 gear -4
2-3 gear -2
3-4 gear 0
i can feel a differnce and i raised my rev limiter to 6300 rpm
100% shift firmness
but as soon as i save up some money im gettin hptuners
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Originally Posted by Jpr5690
negative settings just dont make any sence to me
When your car starts making more power, your stock gauges and computer arent gonna be able to keep up with the motor. With my 100 shot I had to drop the shift points on 1-2 & 2-3 to keep from hitting the rev limiter which is set at 6500. If your running stock motor and thats it, id say just firm up the shifts and let it go at that.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by Jip99z
When your car starts making more power, your stock gauges and computer arent gonna be able to keep up with the motor. With my 100 shot I had to drop the shift points on 1-2 & 2-3 to keep from hitting the rev limiter which is set at 6500. If your running stock motor and thats it, id say just firm up the shifts and let it go at that.
Well the only real way to know what the best shift points are to change one at a time at the track going up in 1mph inraments until that shift point is maximized. Thats the only way to be sure u have the right points. Which ever point yeilds a better time is the point at which u should leave it at. On the firmness i would only firm it up at the track. I did the mistake of leaving it at 75 on the street and now my u-joints make noise.
Yeah i don't understand lowering ur shift points either. U want the car to drop u off in the next gear in ur power band if u shift sooner then u land below the power band.
Yeah i don't understand lowering ur shift points either. U want the car to drop u off in the next gear in ur power band if u shift sooner then u land below the power band.
11 Second Club
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
From: In a van down by the river, Missouri
Increasing shift firmness builds up heat. Heat is bad. However hypertech's shift firmness levels are not like most people think. 100% shift firmness is not 100% increase from stock. When they say 100% they mean that it is the most they recommend and still be "safe". Anytime you change shift firmness you increase heat so keep that in mind. Thats my $.02
I agree, more firmness is created by more pressure. As the pressure builds the molecules in the fluid compress and are forced to a more excited molecular state. This is shown by the equation PV=nRT. Whereas P=pressure and T is temperature, an increase in one leads to the increase in the other. This is the Ideal Gas Law but the same can be eqauted to fluid dynamics through the Bernoulli equation.
Just a note, there is (during-)shift pressure and there is
holding pressure. Both are "managed" by a PWM regulator
driven from the PCM which knocks down the pressure used
in the guts, from the master mechanical line pressure
regulator. You can command higher pressure on the shifts
to make them harder / faster but the holding pressure in
steady (in-gear) driving I believe is a separate deal (all
I have to touch this, is the force motor table but the
PWM-vs-load for in-gear is not an accessible table).
The shift adaptation time is also a during-shift pressure
modifier, this is something that the Predator and I presume
HPP3 change for shift speed/firmness.
More pressure during shifts will be a very small heat impact.
More steady line pressure eats power (power = pressure*flow)
and is wasteful once you are above the holding pressure your
clutch-packs require (which relates to engine torque, converter
multiplication, vehicle weight and road grade). I have upped
mine to help out my wimp TCC as this is a second knockdown
from main line.
There are other, mechanical downsides to excess shift pressure
although I think on a stock vehicle in good internal condition,
the handhelds are rigged to not let you go over the top.
holding pressure. Both are "managed" by a PWM regulator
driven from the PCM which knocks down the pressure used
in the guts, from the master mechanical line pressure
regulator. You can command higher pressure on the shifts
to make them harder / faster but the holding pressure in
steady (in-gear) driving I believe is a separate deal (all
I have to touch this, is the force motor table but the
PWM-vs-load for in-gear is not an accessible table).
The shift adaptation time is also a during-shift pressure
modifier, this is something that the Predator and I presume
HPP3 change for shift speed/firmness.
More pressure during shifts will be a very small heat impact.
More steady line pressure eats power (power = pressure*flow)
and is wasteful once you are above the holding pressure your
clutch-packs require (which relates to engine torque, converter
multiplication, vehicle weight and road grade). I have upped
mine to help out my wimp TCC as this is a second knockdown
from main line.
There are other, mechanical downsides to excess shift pressure
although I think on a stock vehicle in good internal condition,
the handhelds are rigged to not let you go over the top.