no kickdown and soft sloppy shifts
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Central, FL
no kickdown and soft sloppy shifts my stock 4L60E trans is starting to shift sloppy and soft and lost its kick down. car has 39K on the clock. trans fluid has not been changed. I called a performance trans shop and they told be to drain the old ATF and put in new ATF. they said that that could cause it. you think so as well?? if so, what kinda ATF you recommend?? Brand??
thanks. need to know, got a big event on Sunday.
thanks again
thanks. need to know, got a big event on Sunday.
thanks again
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Central, FL
what do you mean clean the MAF?? and I have never had a problem with the K&N, it has been in the car for year now. it just started doing it. I was going to change the ATF at the normal 35K time, but I forgot about it till it started acting up and im at 39K now. 4K over due on a car that is driven every single day and raced once a week. my MAF is descreened and been like that for about 2 months. but this started about 2 weeks ago???
K&Nitis is a progressive disease in which the oil that
leaves the filter, crusts up the MAF sense elements
and drifts the output airflow reading (as frequency)
lower for the same airflow. Low "load" value makes
lower line pressure applied.
If you also have picked up pinging etc. it's worth
a can of QD spray to check it out.
leaves the filter, crusts up the MAF sense elements
and drifts the output airflow reading (as frequency)
lower for the same airflow. Low "load" value makes
lower line pressure applied.
If you also have picked up pinging etc. it's worth
a can of QD spray to check it out.
Change the fluid and filter first. Check the Maf. Save yourself time in the future and weld in a drain plug on the bottom of the trans pan. Buy a engine drain plug for a older chevy 350 and get a matching nut. Drill a 7/16 hole on the right rear corner of the pan and weld the nut to the bottom externally this allows you to drain all of the fluid out and no nasty mess. Change the filter now then you can change the trans oil every 15k or so and the filter at about thirty from here on. If the fluid change does not solve the problem start saving nickels and dimes for an overhaul. Or depending on how you use your car and funds available put in a SRTA trans from the general with a great warranty and call it done. 99,504 on my LS1 a4 trans is still alive and well although it has had regular fluid change from dayh one. You know that since I gave it a compliment it is going to say FU and converter will explode tomorrow.
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Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Central, FL
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
K&Nitis is a progressive disease in which the oil that
leaves the filter, crusts up the MAF sense elements
and drifts the output airflow reading (as frequency)
lower for the same airflow. Low "load" value makes
lower line pressure applied.
If you also have picked up pinging etc. it's worth
a can of QD spray to check it out.
leaves the filter, crusts up the MAF sense elements
and drifts the output airflow reading (as frequency)
lower for the same airflow. Low "load" value makes
lower line pressure applied.
If you also have picked up pinging etc. it's worth
a can of QD spray to check it out.
what is QD spray and where can I get it??
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TECH Addict
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,065
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta, GA
electronics spray cleaner. you can use rubbing alchohol and gently clean the maf wires (read gently) with a q-tip if you are low on cash.
remove the maf if you use QD/Electronic spray probably not good for motor lol.
remove the maf if you use QD/Electronic spray probably not good for motor lol.
QD I find at Home Depot in the electrical section,
blue aerosol can made by CRC. Any other electrical
contact cleaner that says it's plastic-safe, and
leaves no residue (not the kind that says it
lubricates) should be fine too.
I'd rather spray clean than touch the wires. Seen
posts from somebody who cleaned theirs w/ Q-tips,
still was messed up, and eventually found a little
ball of Q-tip fuzz had stayed behind covering up
one of the elements.
blue aerosol can made by CRC. Any other electrical
contact cleaner that says it's plastic-safe, and
leaves no residue (not the kind that says it
lubricates) should be fine too.
I'd rather spray clean than touch the wires. Seen
posts from somebody who cleaned theirs w/ Q-tips,
still was messed up, and eventually found a little
ball of Q-tip fuzz had stayed behind covering up
one of the elements.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Central, FL
ok well i changed the fluid and it did NOTHING. i will have to clean the MAF and see what it does...do i just leave it on there or spay it on and wipe it off?? is there anythign else that i can try??
EDIT: you think it might be caused by me spraying threw the gears, and holding it the full 1/4 pass???
i was spraying a 75 shot
hey is there anythign that i can do to boost line pressure????
EDIT: you think it might be caused by me spraying threw the gears, and holding it the full 1/4 pass???
i was spraying a 75 shot
hey is there anythign that i can do to boost line pressure????
Last edited by seadoo; Nov 19, 2004 at 10:14 PM.
I'd put down some white paper towel, spray it good,
let it drip, see what you're getting off of it. The wires
are what you're trying to de-crust but might as well
get it pristine. You probably want to spray it once
and let it sit for a few minutes, then douche it again.
If this was effective and the oil crust was the problem
when you start up the car it may run funny for a bit
as it gets back out of its bad place to more normal
balance. Hopefully...
let it drip, see what you're getting off of it. The wires
are what you're trying to de-crust but might as well
get it pristine. You probably want to spray it once
and let it sit for a few minutes, then douche it again.
If this was effective and the oil crust was the problem
when you start up the car it may run funny for a bit
as it gets back out of its bad place to more normal
balance. Hopefully...
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 960
Likes: 1
From: Central, FL
come on you guys, i know you people are REALLY smart, im running out of options here, should i just get a rebuild kit and do the upgraded servos, clutches, bands, and all that sutff ?????????
