does anyone know about the b&m trick shift fluid is any good or bad or????

 

We are using it in our Z28 race car, seems to be working very well. I know a lot of local racers that use it as well. It is formulated to work better than the OE Dexron/Mercon and Type F.

 

Bad for me and my TCI converter clutch. Others say it's
been OK for them. Ask your converter vendor first and
take their advice. Also there are two types of B&M now,
the newer stuff says right on the bottle "not for 2000 or
newer transmissions".

I suspect you could turn up plenty more with a search
for "trick shift" in this forum.

 

They actually say later trannies may shift harder than is acceptable to some folk.

To me, the harder (read... quicker) the better, as long as it doesn't adversely impact the trans itself.

 

ill pick up a case today and for my next fluid change ill have them throw some in there, its comin up in 1k miles so ill start running it for now on, thanks guys

 

wait so the synthic trick shift you cant use in 2000 and newer? or ???? or should i just go with the reg stuff???? i use to run royal purple i was very impressed by it but i just wanna try something new and see if this will help me along or not and etc....

 

I used to run it in my TH350 3,500 hughes converter, it made a noticable differance, shifting quicker/firmer.

 

I'm sticking to dino juice. Synthetic for the motor of course

 

whats dino jucie?

 

he is sayin not the natural but the stuff that is made from real things, not made in a lab like syn.

 

oh ok thought so

 

Do not use type "F" or B&M fluid. The reason it appears to make the transmission shift firmer, is that the band or clutch that applying is slipping more at the beginning and at the middle of the shift, then the band or clutch comes on all at once at the end of the shift, this gives the firmer shift feel. With the Dexron (not Dextron) the shift apply is gradual through the entire shift. If you want a "firmer" shift, you will need to address one of the following areas, the apply feed hole size in the valve body plate, the accumulation, raise line pressure, change the type of clutch material, etc. "DO NOT" change the fluid type to change the firmness of the shifts. This is the wrong way of doing it.

 

so im guessing ya build trannys???

 

when i rebuilt my th350 i got a new B&M stall and shift kit at the same time, and the instructions recomended the use of type "F" trans fluids.

 

not just trannys, pro built automatics......

I belive what he is sayig is probably the truth. but are the clutches in ford transmissions differant to handle type f, or what?

 

The materials in the "old school" TH350, TH400 respond
differently to Type F than the newer ones. Especially when
you have torque converter clutches with "exotic" materials
(like the "carbon clutch" in my TCI) and have a slightly-
slipping-clutch system by design, you care a lot about how
the clutch and the ATF work together. Back when it was
all just wet organics and all you wanted was hard grab,
Type F was fine. But this ain't your father's Oldsmobile.
This is why I say forget what the B&M people think, and
forget what GM says if you're not running a GM converter,
you need the word from the people who know what the
TCC is made of and will do when you put the funky blue
stuff to it.

Howl like a raped coyote on light acceleration being the
wrong answer....

 

i had a 350 built about 10years ago , and then they told me to use type f still shifts fine even after about 100,000