On more less a stock LS1 motor will a stall help much?
12-26-2004, 01:39 AM
#21
Originally Posted by 99ssleeper
I like my Midwest 3500/2.0, which is probably the identical converter to that.
My stock shift points are alright too. I just have to give it ~1/2 throttle quick to get it to jump from 4th to 3rd when getting on the freeway. It's a nice feeling and the passing power is great. I also recommend a shift kit and a trans cooler. I have a Trans-Go with 2 washers. Nice quick firm shifts. I did the installs myself and I have about $800 total in doing the converter/shift kit/cooler/guage swap.
For a first converter, get something around a 3500 stall. You wont be disappointed. Keep in mind the Vigilante ratings are low...3200 is really about 3600.
My stock shift points are alright too. I just have to give it ~1/2 throttle quick to get it to jump from 4th to 3rd when getting on the freeway. It's a nice feeling and the passing power is great. I also recommend a shift kit and a trans cooler. I have a Trans-Go with 2 washers. Nice quick firm shifts. I did the installs myself and I have about $800 total in doing the converter/shift kit/cooler/guage swap.
For a first converter, get something around a 3500 stall. You wont be disappointed. Keep in mind the Vigilante ratings are low...3200 is really about 3600.
12-26-2004, 02:01 AM
#22
I just went to my local speed shop for the cooler and guage. They are a B&M 24,000 GVW unit and an Autometer Phantom 2 1/16" guage. I think they cost me just under $100 combined. Get the 24K cooler because it comes with all the hardware you'll need to install it unlike the next larger one. The 24K is as much as you'll need anyway...my temps rarely get above 180° even when Im driving in town and messing around. It isnt that big either so it fits nice.
The converter was from John at HPAparts.com, but I have heard they went out of business a few months ago (I wanted to send it back for the free re-stall...i was thinking of going to a 4000). It's too bad because he was real nice to deal with and the converter has performed flawlessly. I dont know where you would get a Midwest converter anymore.
I got the shift kit off ebay for $55. It was opened, but all the parts were still sealed in the bag. I was a little hesistant to do that myself since I have never installed a shift kit before, but it was pretty easy. If you have any experience working on cars, you should have no problem. I just watched the video a few times to get familiar with the steps, and then followed the directions. I had it installed in a day and it was worth it. The converter will make the shift feel sluggish because it slips a little. The shift kit will firm that up. Also, if you have modified the line pressure via Hypertech or some other tuner, put those settings back to stock. Dont bother with a B&M shift kit or any other....the Trans-Go seems to be the nicest and that's why I chose it. All you really do is change a few springs and make a few tranny fluid feed holes a little bigger....the kit comes with all the drill bits and the instructions are good. Just about any sponsor sells the Trans-Go kit...I believe it is $110.
A converter is the best mod you can do for an A4 car. Looking back at how I did my mods, the TC should have been first. Dont be afraid of the drivability. It locks up just like stock on the freeway and above 40mph....and I still average ~17mpg. Seeing as how my car drives I wouldn't hesitate to go 300-500 rpm more stall speed. You will also benefit from Nittos if you dont already have them
Hope this helps.
The converter was from John at HPAparts.com, but I have heard they went out of business a few months ago (I wanted to send it back for the free re-stall...i was thinking of going to a 4000). It's too bad because he was real nice to deal with and the converter has performed flawlessly. I dont know where you would get a Midwest converter anymore.
I got the shift kit off ebay for $55. It was opened, but all the parts were still sealed in the bag. I was a little hesistant to do that myself since I have never installed a shift kit before, but it was pretty easy. If you have any experience working on cars, you should have no problem. I just watched the video a few times to get familiar with the steps, and then followed the directions. I had it installed in a day and it was worth it. The converter will make the shift feel sluggish because it slips a little. The shift kit will firm that up. Also, if you have modified the line pressure via Hypertech or some other tuner, put those settings back to stock. Dont bother with a B&M shift kit or any other....the Trans-Go seems to be the nicest and that's why I chose it. All you really do is change a few springs and make a few tranny fluid feed holes a little bigger....the kit comes with all the drill bits and the instructions are good. Just about any sponsor sells the Trans-Go kit...I believe it is $110.
A converter is the best mod you can do for an A4 car. Looking back at how I did my mods, the TC should have been first. Dont be afraid of the drivability. It locks up just like stock on the freeway and above 40mph....and I still average ~17mpg. Seeing as how my car drives I wouldn't hesitate to go 300-500 rpm more stall speed. You will also benefit from Nittos if you dont already have them
Hope this helps.
Last edited by 99ssleeper; 12-26-2004 at 02:09 AM.
12-26-2004, 09:06 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by offaxis
Get yourself a converter and a set of nittos . They will provide more gains than any other N/a mod you can do to your auto. BTW anything under 3200 stall you will be changing out within a year for a looser one . So dont waste your time.
depending on what a persons goals are they may not want anything bigger than what you stated.
i have a 3000 and couldnt be more happy.
its not loose in the least bit and i dropped half a second of e.t.
12-26-2004, 09:08 AM
#24
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Originally Posted by ATVracr
I went from 13.3 to 12.6 with a converter and tires being the only chanages.
My only mod then was a lid.
get at least a 4,000 the 1st time.
My only mod then was a lid.
get at least a 4,000 the 1st time.
4000 is kinda big for a daily driver car where theres traffic.
i dropped 6 tenths with just a 3000 stall.
12-27-2004, 08:30 PM
#29
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Originally Posted by LiquidFire350
um..... what is STR?
It's how much the torque is multiplied through the convertor. Stock is around 1.8 I believe. The higher you go, the tighter the converter and tranny will feel, but the harder it will be to hook up. This is at least what I've been told.
12-28-2004, 01:34 AM
#30
Beyond being harder too hook with a higher stall torque ratio, it becomes less efficient as you raise the STR. The way the str is raised is by changing the angle of the blades inside the converter. It makes the converter feel 'tighter' down low, but it makes it sloppy up top. Don't go too high. It will be too hard to hook and it will turn into a dog up top.
12-29-2004, 04:26 PM
#33
Even without traction, a higher stall torque converter will give you a tremendous advantage when racing from a roll. There will no longer be the dreaded flat spot on the 3-2 downshift. With the right converter, your rpm should never drop below 4000 on the 3-2 downshift. This will make you spank most comparably equipped 6 speed cars when racing from a roll (at least until around 90 mph).
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2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
2013 Corvette Grand Sport A6 LME forged 416, Greg Good ported TFS 255 LS3 heads, 222/242 .629"/.604" 121LSA Pat G blower cam, ARH 1 7/8" headers, ESC Novi 1500 Supercharger w/8 rib direct drive conversion, 747rwhp/709rwtq on 93 octane, 801rwhp/735rwtq on race fuel, 10.1 @ 147.25mph 1/4 mile, 174.7mph Half Mile.
2016 Corvette Z51 M7 Magnuson Heartbeat 2300 supercharger, TSP LT headers, Pat G tuned, 667rwhp, 662rwtq, 191mph TX Mile.
2009.5 Pontiac G8 GT 6.0L, A6, AFR 230v2 heads. 506rwhp/442rwtq. 11.413 @ 121.29mph 1/4 mile, 168.7mph TX Mile
2000 Pewter Ram Air Trans Am M6 heads/cam 508 rwhp/445 rwtq SAE, 183.092 TX Mile
2022 Cadillac Escalade 6.2L A10 S&B CAI, Corsa catback.
2023 Corvette 3LT Z51 soon to be modified.
Custom LSX tuning in person or via email press here.
