I wonder who is really responding to post here?
Last edited by Steve H.; Feb 1, 2005 at 10:24 PM.
Its all good, theirs some nice people hear, not everyone is like a hoe for sale.LOL, pretending to be just a avg. joe but is really trying to drum up some biz for a shop! How low can you go, I guess just like a hoe, anything for a buck!
Its all good, theirs some nice people hear, not everyone is like a hoe for sale.LOL, pretending to be just a avg. joe but is really trying to drum up some biz for a shop! How low can you go, I guess just like a hoe, anything for a buck!

I don't have all the answers. I tried calling your two phone numbers and got no answer.
If I can't help I'm not going to pretend that I can.
It sounds to me like you're looking for a step by step guide to changing your transmission. Not to be a smart *** but buy a book.
I can offer no tips, I've never taken the trans out of a truck like yours.I'm sure I could but how can I offer advice having never done it.
Now what do you need help with. Post it right here so I can remember where to find it and tomorrow morning I'll look here and see if I can answer some of your SPECIFIC questions.
Remember this, this is a free forum. I get paid nothing for what ever you call it that I do here. To be honest I'm not even sure people use the advice I give.
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Well Im about to put it in and had a few questions, First, theres new bolts in the rebuilt for the trannies fluid lines, am I going to cut the line and insert the tubing in the new bolts? secondly, how much trans fluid do I put in to start it up? It is shipped in neutral and I have the truck in neutal, so it should be set up right? Just install tv cable? And lastly, I was told to mark the spot where the old converter came but theres no marks on the new one, ls their a way to tell where I should set it up or will it be fine to just bolt it to the fly wheel at any point? I dont want to start it up and have it blow up, lol and lastly, should I leave it on the jack stands for first start up and shift it a bit, then shut it down, check for fluid level and top off? Hope I didnt miss anything, ohh wait, someone told me to put a filter on the return line, the top going into the cooler is recive and the the bottom is the send to trans, the filter gos on the send to trans line. Thanks for any help with this!
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Post one or two questions at a time. It is very hard to sit down and anwser 15 questions at once but I am more than willing to do one or two.
Second use the ENTER key every now an then. It makes your posts easier to read. I got a damn headache trying to reading that block of letters up there and didnt end up reading it all because it was frustrating. I am sure I am not alone.
Mike
Thats how I've been doing it since I've been working on cars and trucks. Learn by doing.
Lets see about some of those questions.
About marking the torque converter----I know why they tell you to do this but I see no use to. Now you've got a new converter with no marks----just align the bolts and bolt it up---thats all.
Then check it on the stick, leave it about 1/4" from the full mark, take fluid and a funnel with you for the test drive.
As the fluid heats up the level should rise. But as you run it and a new trans fills with fluid the level on the stick will lower.
Space, lol
Theirs a timing mark on the fly wheel and it was also on the converter, so I knew where to line it up. I took it off the jack stands, flushed the cooler with quick dry break fluid, blew it out till I saw nothing coming out the other end. Hooked it up, it was shipped with a bracket holding the converter in place which made it easy to know it was on right! Some dumb macanic that replaced the trans before had used RV sealant on the trans case and flange for the trans mount, it got into the transfer case, I cleaned that out, he also crazy glued the connectors, so I had to break the park/nutral switch and replace that, why would you do that? Theres a rubber boot to keep out water?
I used bolt sealant with anti sease on all bolts so if I had to take it out again it would be easyer. I put it all togather, added 5 quarts, shifted for 2 mins, then added another 7 and shifted for a min, (in all gears) then added another quart, drove it around the block, let it set in nutral for a min, then checked fluid level again, and added 1 more quart, leaving it a quarter below. Its a monster!!!!
I tuned it up, plat 4S sk speed wires, new gaskets on pan, vaule covers, oil pump and flushed radiator, new fluids, cleaned and replaced front breakes, (will need more stoppin power, LOL) it peels, its never done that before. Today I will take it on the highway, some say dont pass 55 for a few days, whats your spin? Thanks all that did help without trying to sell me something!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!! You know who you are
I will never pay for another trans shop to touch my vehicle, thanks, if you want something done right, do it yourself! Peace
Anyone that would try to decive would not be the person to trust for a trans! Iam smart enough to know, trans work takes alot of understanding, what shop would say..."we dont dyno test so we dont even know if its working right, we will tell you its rebuilt but what we mean is we used some old parts from one layin around and hope it holds past the warranty, or I really havent learned what Iam doing but I need your money to pay some bills?????
Damn Dave...get off the net and build some more trannys! I am going to dyno again without boost falling off and see how much this Rock On 4l60e can take!! I already put 703rwhp and 770rwtq thru it......going to the track again on Saturday. 703 thru a 3800# car with 3.23 gears shows Dave knows wtf he is doing with the 4l60e in his hands. If he is giving you advice/help...take it!!!
As for break in I usually drive enough to get the fluid level right then drive it as normal whether it be hard or easy drive how ever you like.
As for everything else about who's selling what I don't know.
I do stuff on my own, I think I can see a few things that the pro's have long forgotten, like the easy stuff. I don't know.





