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How streetable are the 4000+ converters?

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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 07:27 PM
  #21  
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Hi
Thanks I understand now. Makes sense. I was planning a TC upgrade for my 1998 Z28 A4, but I think I will do the gears first. This will give me more TC options latter.

I do have anouther question. I have a friend that will sell me a new B&M Hole Shot 2000 for cheep ($200 CND). I assume this will raise my stall about 400 to 500 RPM. Of course, after buying it and payng for an install and new fluid, it will still be several hundred dollars. Do you think it is worth the effort, or should I put the money towards headers?

JA
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Old Mar 9, 2005 | 08:17 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by JGA
Hi
Thanks I understand now. Makes sense. I was planning a TC upgrade for my 1998 Z28 A4, but I think I will do the gears first. This will give me more TC options latter.

JA
I would strongly suggest going with a convertor first. You'll see a much greater benefit than doing gears first.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 03:03 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by JGA
I do have anouther question. I have a friend that will sell me a new B&M Hole Shot 2000 for cheep ($200 CND). I assume this will raise my stall about 400 to 500 RPM. Of course, after buying it and payng for an install and new fluid, it will still be several hundred dollars. Do you think it is worth the effort
No, though I do agree that it's worth doing a converter first but I would get a good one in the desired/proper stall instead of the B&M that you are considering.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 09:07 AM
  #24  
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A 2000 stall converter is barely more than stock. I'd avoid it.
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 11:58 AM
  #25  
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avoid that 2000 convertor like a dirty prostitute (which means avoid it)
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Old Mar 10, 2005 | 01:18 PM
  #26  
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Yeah the biggest thing to worry about is the crap gas mileage you'll get. I get around 12 mpg with my 3500 stall.
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Old Mar 12, 2005 | 02:55 AM
  #27  
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Default 2000 stall

Hi
Thanks I get the message.

JA
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 04:49 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by gator's 99TA
the above post i cant agree at all. 4000 rpm convertors are flat out awesome on the street for racing. if you are spining, put a better tire on the car or learn to drive.

ANYTHING IS STREETABLE

Hell I drove a trex 244/249 109.5 lsa around with a spool with a stalled auto in my daily driver. I guess what I ment to say is for street use (using street tires) the 4000 stall is a little high. Alot of what determins drivablity is the STR ... not the stall speed.
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Old Mar 13, 2005 | 12:36 PM
  #29  
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That's a real man right there lol
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by darrensls1formula
I'm assuming your talking about a bolt-on car with stock internals. I would say a good gear to help tighten things up a bit is 3.73's. 4000 stall's tend to come with pretty high STR's so street driving becomes real tricky due to traction or lack thereof.

3000-3200 is super street friendly and you'll hardly notice anything different until you punch it.

3400-3600 is street friendly and the most popular stall size for stock motors and daily drivers. You'll feel a little looseness and it'll take a few weeks to get used to, but then it'll feel stock.

3800-4000 is streetable to some and too much for others. This is where people decide what they can and can not stand as far as stoplight to stoplight driving.


If you stay with stock gears then go with a 3500 stall. If you upgrade to 3.73's then a 3800 or 4000 stall with a 2.7 STR should feel pretty good if you don't mind a little looseness.

Hope this helps and good luck

This pretty well explains it !
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 05:37 AM
  #31  
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what is the stock stall at?
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 07:59 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by ShadowLightCSU
Yeah the biggest thing to worry about is the crap gas mileage you'll get. I get around 12 mpg with my 3500 stall.
Wow... You've got some tuning issues or a serious case of lead foot.

Even with a H&C plus a 4200 stall, my mileage never went that low, except maybe during a real cold snap in winter where there was a long warm up period.
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