I want someone to sell me a non-electronic tranny w/ lockup and a decent gear spread that will live under 800 + horses and 1000 ft/lbs and bolt into a C5. And I want somebody to sell me the damn tranny without requiring me to take my car to them, I want it in a crate.

 

Will you guys offer a linkage to let the fbody shifter work on the 80e. I would like to know before a have a friend make me a custom one.

 

We make bracket that goes between the trans and stock shifter bracket
but we do not have any at this time!
it is easy to fab out of a piece of 1" X 5" X 1/8 flat stock

 

why not just get a FLP level 4 built 4l60e? $1,995 ...

 

Got any pics? Are you getting any more in soon. Any info on making one from the metal piece. TIA

 

That was/is one of my other considerations. It's just that I have read about a LOT of people going through 4L60E's, even when rebuilt. There are people running FLP's and Rossler's pushing lots of power, but they are expensive. I havn't found enough people with the level four FLP, pushing enough power, for long enough to convince me itw ill hold up better than the other l60's. Rossler is a little above me.

I plan to make some rather seious power and get into more drag racing in the future. Forged 346 with heads/cam/n2o making at least into the 500-600 rwhp and I'd feel a lot better with a TH400 behind that than a build 4L60E.

It is still open for consideration, my trans hasn't taken a crap yet. It is getting there, I've already lost 2-3 at WOT.

 

After installing your SS3200 in my car, and having the tranny gone thru at the same time, I can honestly say that one without the other is like taking a shower & putting dirty underwear back on.

I'm not even going to waste the bandwidth telling you what was done to my tranny. I'm sure you guys can figure out what needs to be done for any application. But you also NEED tuning to make it work perfectly. And I assume that is what you are after, perfect performance, plug-n-play.

Cases in point - my car wouldn't idle right after the install. And I had just spent a week getting it to idle after the cam install. And the shift & lock-up points were askew too. And last but not least, the WOT shift points were whacked. It shifts too early now, like 400rpm below the set shift points (which meant at the track I gained 2/10ths on my 60' from the conv, but gained nothing on the top end)

So if you really want to offer a complete pkg, think about the tuning end. Nothing worse than spending a lot of time & moeny installing some go-fast part & having the car run like crap afterwards.

 

We are going to make packages that will work together as we have found that their are many people that buy parts (used or new) that will not work well together, and the converter is the last part that you should buy to blend the package together.
some trans builders us settings that affect the converters performance and we try to make buyers aware of this, as too much line pressure will some times offset the gain of the converter.
many toss in a converter and then try to make the car run right this is hard to do!
Yes, we must sell matched parts
but the tuning is just to complex to offer

 

Will this fit with true duals?

 

I see your point. I thought about it after I posted & there are just too many variables for you to deal with....cams, intakes, TBs, heads, gears, etc etc etc. And you have no idea how close a persons tune was before they put your stall &/or tranny in. (or in my case, some obscure variable like VSS or CPS got tweaked in some ref table)

But you could pick some brains of tuners & come up with a list of suggested settings to tweak. Whether your source was Ed Wright, or people on here, or someone in house, a basic tune suggestion would be fairly easy to build based on what YOU do to their tranny / converter.

The best part is, you're asking your customers, AND listening!