2 to 3 shift problem
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
2 to 3 shift problem I've rebuilt my 4L60e twice last year, with the pro-built rebuild kit the last time. Transmission is flaring (overevving) from the 2 to 3 shift. Is it the clearance in the 3-4 clutch pack at fault? I know i have to open it up again... Anybody experience the same problem?
A glazed band has nothing to do with the shift from 2 to 3.
It sounds like the 3-4 clutch clearance could be too loose. I have experienced that problem and torn a trans down to fix only that, it worked great afterwards.
The clearance was well in stock range at .090, I was told to set it between .030 and .040.
That worked.
It sounds like the 3-4 clutch clearance could be too loose. I have experienced that problem and torn a trans down to fix only that, it worked great afterwards.
The clearance was well in stock range at .090, I was told to set it between .030 and .040.
That worked.
Mine was doing that and my transmission is fine. It just needed some tuning. Because of your stall you may be hitting your rev limiter before your mph reaches its shift point. If you don't reach the mph its set at, the trans wont shift. It needs to hit both rpm shift point and mph shift point. Drop your shift point a few mph and it could be your fix.
When you go back in, get thinner steels and stack up the 3/4 pack with 8 or 9 frictions if you can fit 'em. Aim for ~ .040", if you don't get enough volume under the piston it won't work properly. Use good Borg Warner frictions, don't bother with the blue plates or red eagles, trust me on this one 
Double check the teflon rings on the input shaft when you put it back together, and use new rings..
Double check the teflon rings on the input shaft when you put it back together, and use new rings..
Originally Posted by rufretic
Mine was doing that and my transmission is fine. It just needed some tuning. Because of your stall you may be hitting your rev limiter before your mph reaches its shift point. If you don't reach the mph its set at, the trans wont shift. It needs to hit both rpm shift point and mph shift point. Drop your shift point a few mph and it could be your fix.
I'm with this guy. Mine did the same thing. I tuned it out.
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Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 53
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It's not the shift point... i made it shift at 5100 RPM and it still flares. Looking for that .040 clearance. Did you guys use that extra clutch plate in the 3-4 pack? I have it in but i wonder if it makes a difference.
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Originally Posted by Sotiri
It's not the shift point... i made it shift at 5100 RPM and it still flares. Looking for that .040 clearance. Did you guys use that extra clutch plate in the 3-4 pack? I have it in but i wonder if it makes a difference.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga,TN
My tranny does the same thing but I don't want to tune my shift point to 5800 rpms hundred when my nitrous shuts off at 6000 rpms, if I did then I would be spraying through my shifts. My 1-2 shifts are strong but my 2-3 sucks bad. I have a Pro-built rebiuld kit but I would like to find out if its a tuning issue before I rebuild it and have it mess up again.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 736
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga,TN
Originally Posted by mike'st/a
have either of you guys tried contacting probuilt to see if he thinks it's a tuning issue. would but it doesn't matter on mine it's toast again. 
I'm still on my stock tranny. My rebuild kit is sitting in the floor waiting to be installed. My tranny shifts fine under normal everyday driving but put your foot in it and 1-2 strong 2-3 holds/hesitates before it shifts.