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good STR on 245 streets

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Old 08-18-2005, 11:11 AM
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Default good STR on 245 streets

what is a good STR on some regular street tires, like kumho 712's 245 width? im thinking a 2.2 will do good, but what do you guys think?
Old 08-18-2005, 11:25 AM
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Any aftermarket converter is going to make traction worse because the STR for all of them are greater the the stock converter STR (except for the Yank SY3500 I think) so I wouldn't worry about traction right now. Sometime in the future you'll get better tires and traction will be better. Choose a STR that will give you good drivablity. Good street manners depends on gears, stall speed and STR. The more gear and STR will improve drivablity and the lower the stall speed with make the converter more drivable also. There are alot of different opinions of what drivable is so your not going to get a clear cut answer. Someone who drives on the intersate all the time will say that a 4000 stall is drivable while someone who drives in bumper to bumper traffic will say that you don't want to go higher then a 3000 or 3200 stall. So keep that in mind along with what your goal is for the car. A nice daily driver or a weekend warrior. Either way, get a transmission cooler if you get a stall.
Old 08-18-2005, 12:49 PM
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A lot of good points to consider. Let me point out that the hardest combination to launch on the street is a low stall, high STR converter. I was horrible at launching when I had a TT2800 3.0 but could kick *** with a YTP 4000 2.4. (both with 3.23s)

STR effects drivability a bit, but not as much as people tout it. Stall speed is the number one factor in looseness. My YTP 4200 with 2.5 STR was much looser than the SY 3500 with its 1.6 STR. A 50% increase in STR did not come close to covering the 20% increase in stall speed.
Old 08-18-2005, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
A lot of good points to consider. Let me point out that the hardest combination to launch on the street is a low stall, high STR converter. I was horrible at launching when I had a TT2800 3.0 but could kick *** with a YTP 4000 2.4. (both with 3.23s)

STR effects drivability a bit, but not as much as people tout it. Stall speed is the number one factor in looseness. My YTP 4200 with 2.5 STR was much looser than the SY 3500 with its 1.6 STR. A 50% increase in STR did not come close to covering the 20% increase in stall speed.
im thinking of getting a 3600rpm stall speed with a 2.2str...think i should dial it down a little with the str since im going to run on kumho 712's? i dont have a spare set of rims to run dr's through the rain here in fl
Old 08-18-2005, 02:21 PM
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Ragtop speaks the truth. Let the stall speed be your guide, because in reality, most converter companies lie about STR anyway. Maybe I shouldn't say lie, but they're pretty ignorant on how to properly adjust it.

A looser converter is going to be more controllable on launching. Get a 3600 stall and learn to "pedal" it on radials.
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Old 08-18-2005, 03:05 PM
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FWIW: You don't need to take drag radials off because it rains. I run nittos all day every day from about spring break to Thanksgiving here in Indiana. See plenty of rain. So long as you are very carefull once they are partially worn out you are fine. They are scary when badly worn if you hit standing water at highway speeds though.

How many miles do you drive it in an average year?

If you do want it to work well on the street with regular tires, you have some great advice up there already.
Old 08-18-2005, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
FWIW: You don't need to take drag radials off because it rains. I run nittos all day every day from about spring break to Thanksgiving here in Indiana. See plenty of rain. So long as you are very carefull once they are partially worn out you are fine. They are scary when badly worn if you hit standing water at highway speeds though.

How many miles do you drive it in an average year?

If you do want it to work well on the street with regular tires, you have some great advice up there already.
i drive about 13k miles to and from college a year.

also patrick, on your 2000 t/a on your home page, did you use drag radials to go from that 13.5 to a 12.84?
Old 08-18-2005, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Hennytime
i drive about 13k miles to and from college a year.
You should be able to get about a year per pair of nittos, should you choose to go that route. They just stick so well on the street I couldn't imagine having a higher stall converter with street tires.
Old 08-18-2005, 10:57 PM
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My TCI 3000/2.2 will easily broil street tires even at fairly light throttle; with 245 Nittos, I still have to ease it out when I launch. Your 3600/2.2 is going flash higher and be even tougher to hook with. It doesn't look good for your street tires.
Old 08-20-2005, 05:06 PM
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i drove my nittos in the snow and ice back in late april cause we had a freak snow storm and i was 150 miles away from home. thank god the tires were new otherwise i would have been smoked
Old 08-21-2005, 09:14 AM
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RevGTO:
It is the opposite. A higher stall has more slip; the slip makes it easier to pedal it. Your 3000 comes up fast whereas a 3600 will come up a little slower. The 3600 will be easier to launch w/o spinning as it is easier to hit the sweet spot for a given amount of traction, but because of the extra torque he'll need to pedal it just a tad longer before going to WOT.


I'm with blackz28 on the tires. I do the samething. I get one summer season out of my nittos (about 8000 miles) and use winter tires during the cold weather as nittos SUCK on the street when the temps are below 50*. I sell my used nittos to guys who use them at the track as they are good for track use well after they are not safe in the rain. I get a new set in the spring.
Old 08-21-2005, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ragtop 99
RevGTO:
It is the opposite. A higher stall has more slip; the slip makes it easier to pedal it. Your 3000 comes up fast whereas a 3600 will come up a little slower. The 3600 will be easier to launch w/o spinning as it is easier to hit the sweet spot for a given amount of traction, but because of the extra torque he'll need to pedal it just a tad longer before going to WOT.
I think we're invoking the same principle here but from different perspectives ... it will be harder to keep traction if he stalls it up because it will stall deeper into the powerband, and same thing when it flashes, because it will flash higher. So the hit, when it comes, will be harder. But it will be easier to soft pedal it out because of the increased slippage, and as you say, thus he can do it a bit longer.




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