2-3 shift at WOT hits the rev limit
At the same time the trans temp rises by 20F in few seconds.
Usually the first 2-3 shift is ok, if I try again it makes the problem I described.
It's the stock A4 transmission with 2.73 rear end. Stock converter too.
See my sig for mods and power.
The max pressure is rised up to 95 PSI, the shift table is changed accordingly (shift pressure vs torque).
Does it help if I increase the pressure further more? How much?
Is it time for a repair?
Does it help if I reduce shift speed and RPM? I just want to keep the tranny alive for some more time.
Thanks - Stefano
We'll see if mine was cracked when I get my transmission back later this week, or early next.

Torque converter is stock.
I'm starting to reduce shift speed and shift RPM for the 2-3 shift: it's a blown engine and less rpm means also a lot less torque. Let's see.
If the clutches are slipping it means they are telling my bye bye or it's just too much torque?
Do I have to check / replaces the solenoids?
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Add a fair amount of torque management back in as a temporary fix to help it last longer.
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You can feel it badly but you have reason, it helps.
I tried higher values also but it doesn't reduce power more than that: TM is related to torque and ignition advance. My timing at WOT is now at 17* and it goes to 0 or even negative during the shifts.
This of the torque converter: is it usual to install high stall converters to have smoother (high power) shifts? Am I missing something?
I was thinking it was to reach an higher RPM before the car starts to move. Good for wild cams or for launching...
Torque converters - I don't have a clue!
Say you shift at 6200rpm during your 2-3 shift. You RPM probably drops to 3500? With even a small stall(3000) and your tq amount you'd be looking at a min of 4600 rpm when it shifts to 3rd, thus keeping your boost up and less strain on the shift.

Torque converter is stock.
I'm starting to reduce shift speed and shift RPM for the 2-3 shift: it's a blown engine and less rpm means also a lot less torque. Let's see.
Pete2k_Z28: this is very possible. Also the 3-4 shift is strange: it looks like that the 3rd clutch is letting go too soon. At certain conditions (60 mph, low tps, tcc locked) the rpm will raise of about 200 when shifting 3-4. Especially if I shift manually.
If the clutches are slipping it means they are telling my bye bye or it's just too much torque?
Do I have to check / replaces the solenoids?
I'll wait until it's really bad for a repair - of course - but I'm pissed to wait knowing it gets worst every day

After blowing up three of them (blown up starshell, burned up bands, burned up clutch packs, destroyed solenoinds, etc) in my LT1 396 Stroker in my old car, I decided to go with a T-56.

There was an ongoing problem with OBD-I and the 4L60E not shifting 2-3 because of bigger converters (over 3200) messing with the VSS, but I thought that was fixed in OBD-II ?

Mike
It made 2 nice WOT shifts and then it started to slip.
At part throttle it still shifts OK, but at WOT I can forget it: it just goes up to the rev limit.
The ATF has still the original color but smells like burned

I'm now considering a M6, but I'm afraid of the job (I've never done it) and I still have the stock rear end (10 bolts).
Will it last?
It made 2 nice WOT shifts and then it started to slip.
At part throttle it still shifts OK, but at WOT I can forget it: it just goes up to the rev limit.
The ATF has still the original color but smells like burned

I'm now considering a M6, but I'm afraid of the job (I've never done it) and I still have the stock rear end (10 bolts).
Will it last?
The trick is to not put any tire on it stickier than a Nitto Drag Radial and if you put a Nitto Drag Radial on it, don't heat up the tires and don't dump the clutch at 4 grand.
Mike
It's a 2002, will it fit on my 1998? I think so...
Should I?
Trans, parts and shipping will be around 3000 US$
I was thinking to do the job myself, including electrical connections and reprogramming (load the M6 settings using LS1Edit).

