24K Cooler not enough for 4K stall?
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24K Cooler not enough for 4K stall? Alright, I've got the Yank SS4000 and a B&M 24k cooler. It drives fine for a couple of hours (1-2), but after that, the SES light comes on, and the converter won't lock up. I know that if the computer senses extreme heat in the transmission, it goes into a mode where it throws a light, and won't go into overdrive. I got the car tuned and back yesturday. I drove it to school today, back, work, store, out to eat, shop, etc. all day, and it just now came on, so i'm sure that's what it is (the transmission getting hot). Is it becuase the cooler I have isn't enough to keep the stall from producing extreme amounts of heat? Any help is appreciated!
Last edited by adamp; Sep 2, 2005 at 09:35 PM.
Your cooler may be just not have a good enough
airflow to do its job, especially around town where
slip is high and airspeed is low. If it's depending on
the fans for air, are the fans even on? Stock
settings won't cut it. You could supplement it with
its own fan, maybe thermostatic even. There are
a few setups like that (spendy) but 12V muffin
fans are cheap and plentiful if you like little sheet
metal projects and a bit of wiring.
airflow to do its job, especially around town where
slip is high and airspeed is low. If it's depending on
the fans for air, are the fans even on? Stock
settings won't cut it. You could supplement it with
its own fan, maybe thermostatic even. There are
a few setups like that (spendy) but 12V muffin
fans are cheap and plentiful if you like little sheet
metal projects and a bit of wiring.
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I would, and have, focussed on airflow. After I cleaned up the front of the condensor/ radiator and moved the washer container, I have found good air flow, and that, when the fans are on, will even pull air through the holes I opened up in my front bumper absorber. 
chrysler makes a cooler for the dodge caravan w/towing package that has a similar design to the 28k cooler but twice the size. Its about the size of an intercooler. I scanned a stalled car with the above cooler in 90* temps and the trans temps only got up to 159* after a few runs on the street. lol
I'm going to put on this cooler when I get the part number.
I'm going to put on this cooler when I get the part number.
Last edited by SmokingWS6; Sep 4, 2005 at 12:43 AM.
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Your set-up is too mild to be creating unusual heat problems. Let's do the basics first (assuming your code is in fact heat related):
1) Verify the cooler installed on the return from the factory cooler. If you cool the fluid and then pass it through the radiator it just heats back up.
2) Make sure you do not have fluid flow problems. Make sure the filter is good and nothing is stuck in your lines.
3) Install a 160 T-Stat with matching fan settings.
1) Verify the cooler installed on the return from the factory cooler. If you cool the fluid and then pass it through the radiator it just heats back up.
2) Make sure you do not have fluid flow problems. Make sure the filter is good and nothing is stuck in your lines.
3) Install a 160 T-Stat with matching fan settings.
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Thanks for the info. I really don't know anything about this cooler, how it installs, or anything, so I'll take a picture of where it is and where the lines run to tonight, and post them up later and see if that helps any.
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Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28
Yeah you need the code, especially since you just got a tune. My 24K is mounted "dope style" and have never had a problem, no matter how much heat/traffic/abuse I give it.
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Here's where the cooler is mounted. idk if you can really tell where the lines go, I'll be changing the oil tomorrow afternoon, and i'll get some better pics then, but here you go.
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Originally Posted by 2001NBMZ28
That's dope style allright, mounted that way bacause of the FTRA. Did you get the code read?
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Originally Posted by adamp
Nope, but i'm almost 100% sure that's what it is. I was asking the guy if I needed a trans temp guage, and he said if the computer sensed extreme temps in the transmission, it would resort to 3rd gear, wouldn't go into overdrive (the converter wouldn't lock up) and the SES light would come on, and that's exactly what happened twice, so i'm almost sure that's it.
I have a temp guage in mine. I've seen trans temps of 220 and slightly higher and never thrown a code. (Note: those trans temps were not on a regular basis, it was before I got some cooling issues worked out and the car was in traffic). If it throws a code on high temps, I don't want to know how high that temp has to be. Definitely higher than I feel comfortable running my tranny and definitely in the area where I feel damage can occur.
Get that code scanned asap. If you or a buddy don't have access to something to scan it with, most auto parts store will scan it for free for you.
Do you have 2nd and 3rd gear but not 1st and 4th? Sounds like it might be "Shift Solenoid B Stuck On" code..I'm forgetting the exact # right now..but it's happens with a decent # of aftermarket convertors. If it is that...then it's just a matter of tuning. Try this...next time she gives you problems (if you haven't gotten the code read yet), shut the car off. Turn it back on right away, do you have normal tranny function back?
