Front pump seal leak..need help..
#1
Front pump seal leak..need help..
friend has a 98 ws.6 a4...has some transmission fluid leaking from inbetween the trans and motor which i can only assume would be coming from either the torque converter and/or the front pump...my question to you a4 guys (cause im a m6 guy and dont know much about this perticuler auto trans) whats involved in replacing the front pump/seal in these trans?? i know on the chryslers we work on here at work its a simple replacement which can be done pretty much on the vehicle and on some cars in requires a complete trans rebuild pretty much cause you have to tear the trans down to access it...thanx in advance.
#2
TECH Senior Member
Remove trans.
Remove TC.
Pull seal from front of trans.
Install new seal.
Check TC snout for wear, pitting, grooving;
if not okay, rub lightly (fine grit) or replace TC.
Install TC.
Install trans.
Remove TC.
Pull seal from front of trans.
Install new seal.
Check TC snout for wear, pitting, grooving;
if not okay, rub lightly (fine grit) or replace TC.
Install TC.
Install trans.
#3
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I agree w/ joe but one other detail I think he left out is that I would pressure test the converter. At work I use a solid rubber plug and plug the snout on the converter, apply light air pressure, 50-75psi, oh, I have a hole drilled through this rubber plug for air and check the weld seam all the way around the converter.
#5
TECH Fanatic
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If you pull the front seal, make sure you do not damage the aluminum bushing underneath. Otherwise, you will have to pull the front pump to replace it. I made that mistake and also replaced the front pump oring. After going through all of this, the converter was the problem. It had a hairline fracture in the cover that was causing the leak.
#7
TECH Senior Member
Even if it's new, inspect the TC's snout (saves unnecessary work).
Pressure test TC is good idea too, if you can.
Remember to put about 1 QT of ATF in TC before installing.
Installing TC, you must feel 3 clicks otherwise it is not installed
(3 clicks = engagement of snout (drives pump) + stator shaft + turbine shaft).
Cheers
Joe
Pressure test TC is good idea too, if you can.
Remember to put about 1 QT of ATF in TC before installing.
Installing TC, you must feel 3 clicks otherwise it is not installed
(3 clicks = engagement of snout (drives pump) + stator shaft + turbine shaft).
Cheers
Joe
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#8
Originally Posted by joecar
Even if it's new, inspect the TC's snout (saves unnecessary work).
Pressure test TC is good idea too, if you can.
Remember to put about 1 QT of ATF in TC before installing.
Installing TC, you must feel 3 clicks otherwise it is not installed
(3 clicks = engagement of snout (drives pump) + stator shaft + turbine shaft).
Cheers
Joe
Pressure test TC is good idea too, if you can.
Remember to put about 1 QT of ATF in TC before installing.
Installing TC, you must feel 3 clicks otherwise it is not installed
(3 clicks = engagement of snout (drives pump) + stator shaft + turbine shaft).
Cheers
Joe
#9
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I am going thru the same thing .Put the convertor in a week ago with new front seal ,leaked a little,,pulled it tranny again today put a fresh seal double checked to be the correct one,,put it back together and now it leaks ten times as much.. . I have done at least ten convertor swaps and this is the first time this has happened. Only thing left is the convertor which is a new TCI ..
20 hours of labor in it so far and now I am stuck without a car.
20 hours of labor in it so far and now I am stuck without a car.
#10
TECH Senior Member
Is your TC snout out-of-round, off-center, pitted, worn, grooved, or anything...?
Did the circular tensioning spring pop out of the seal during seal install...?
Did the circular tensioning spring pop out of the seal during seal install...?