Please Help...broken Tailshaft Housing...please Help
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Please Help...broken Tailshaft Housing...please Help This is the second time my transmission tailshaft housing has cracked when I'm getting on the car. The first time it broke (6 weeks ago) was when I was racing a modded '03 cobra (I spanked him w/N2O). It broke the clean off all the way around the housing. I worked on the car the next day and I noticed the transmission mount was torn and the driveshaft's yolk was messed up beyond repair. I replace the yolk and had the driveshaft balanced (steel driveshaft), I replaced the tailshaft housing, put on a new factory tranny mount, and I had to replace the speedo sensor. I got the car running again and it was working fine.
I went to get my car dynotuned on MON 10-3-05 when the same dam thing happened again. The car only made like 5 good runs, made 334.5 / 346 at the wheels. On the 6th NA run the tailshaft housing broke clean off AGAIN! I didn't even get to tune the car with the N2O. Anyways, I bought another tailshaft housing, an aluminum driveshaft, BMR torque-arm relocation bracket, BMR lower control arm relocation brackets (bolt-in), BMR tubular subframe connectors (weld-in) and a new speedo sensor.
I've been told that since I have lowered the car my drivetrain angle might be off? I think my torque-arm might be bent so I am also replacing it, but only with the factory piece for now...money is a little tight right now with school and all. What do you think could be causing my tailshaft housing to break? Do you think that be relocating the torque-arm and an aluminum driveshaft I should be fine?
PLEASE HELP!!!
Thanks in advance.
I went to get my car dynotuned on MON 10-3-05 when the same dam thing happened again. The car only made like 5 good runs, made 334.5 / 346 at the wheels. On the 6th NA run the tailshaft housing broke clean off AGAIN! I didn't even get to tune the car with the N2O. Anyways, I bought another tailshaft housing, an aluminum driveshaft, BMR torque-arm relocation bracket, BMR lower control arm relocation brackets (bolt-in), BMR tubular subframe connectors (weld-in) and a new speedo sensor.
I've been told that since I have lowered the car my drivetrain angle might be off? I think my torque-arm might be bent so I am also replacing it, but only with the factory piece for now...money is a little tight right now with school and all. What do you think could be causing my tailshaft housing to break? Do you think that be relocating the torque-arm and an aluminum driveshaft I should be fine?
PLEASE HELP!!!
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by PERFECT Z28; Oct 5, 2005 at 01:47 PM.
Join the club!I destroyed 2 tailshaft housings. I did everything you mentioned with the torque arm relocation and chromoly driveshaft and such.I had such a vibration after all this and after tearing my tranny down(last resort)I came to find out my output shaft was bent 3,000.We still have no idea what caused this but after the new tranny mount and relocation bracket I was good to go! Traver
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Originally Posted by ramairws6
Join the club!I destroyed 2 tailshaft housings. I did everything you mentioned with the torque arm relocation and chromoly driveshaft and such.I had such a vibration after all this and after tearing my tranny down(last resort)I came to find out my output shaft was bent 3,000.We still have no idea what caused this but after the new tranny mount and relocation bracket I was good to go! Traver
My transmission is still under warranty, and I believe if it is a bent output shaft, it should still be covered, right?
This tranny has been a nightmare.
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2005
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* MTI LID & K&N
* FREE MODS
* 160* TSTAT
* SLP BELLOW
* JET HOT LT's and Y
* BORLA EXHAUST
* EATON POSI w/GM 342's
* EIBACH SPORTLINE
* CROSS DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS
* 17" X 9.5" TTII's
* 275/40 17 KUMHO's FRONT
* 315/35 17 SUMITOMO's REAR
* NX EFI WET KIT with ALUMINUM BOTTLE
* STREET TUNE FROM DYNOTEX
* H.I.D's
Did you say something about a warranty? Maybe if you know someone at the dealership.
* FREE MODS
* 160* TSTAT
* SLP BELLOW
* JET HOT LT's and Y
* BORLA EXHAUST
* EATON POSI w/GM 342's
* EIBACH SPORTLINE
* CROSS DRILLED/SLOTTED ROTORS
* 17" X 9.5" TTII's
* 275/40 17 KUMHO's FRONT
* 315/35 17 SUMITOMO's REAR
* NX EFI WET KIT with ALUMINUM BOTTLE
* STREET TUNE FROM DYNOTEX
* H.I.D's
Did you say something about a warranty? Maybe if you know someone at the dealership.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
From: Eagle Pass, TX
I would of course take the N2O off...the only thing that has been "visually added" would be the LT's and Y-PIPE...the other stuff was on there when I had the tranny replaced in FEB...warranty was 3yr or 50k mi
I think it would be too difficult to have the dealership cover the tranny. I don't want to end up having to pay the dealer to take the tranny apart and charge me for it.
I think it would be too difficult to have the dealership cover the tranny. I don't want to end up having to pay the dealer to take the tranny apart and charge me for it.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
Likes: 0
From: Eagle Pass, TX
Originally Posted by ramairws6
Join the club!I destroyed 2 tailshaft housings. I did everything you mentioned with the torque arm relocation and chromoly driveshaft and such.I had such a vibration after all this and after tearing my tranny down(last resort)I came to find out my output shaft was bent 3,000.We still have no idea what caused this but after the new tranny mount and relocation bracket I was good to go! Traver
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Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,930
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From: Eagle Pass, TX
Originally Posted by cam75w/ls1
You mentioned it was lowered. Did you check to see if the slip on your driveshaft might be bottoming out in the tail of the trans?
Thanks guys.
how would someone check if the shaft is bottoming out in the trans? I have a bad vibration also that lessons some when on the gas at lower speeds, however, when speeds increase, the vibration feels like it will destroy the car
01350SS, sounds like your problem is your driveshaft is out of balance. Check your u-joints and make sure they are centered in the slip and yoke(front and back)Sometimes you can jack the rear end up and roll the rear wheels w/ engine running in gear and watch the driveshaft. Look for any up and down movement. Sometimes I've found a frozen u-joint will do this so you may have to pull the shaft out and check the joints to see if they move freely. Make sure the rear wheels are stopped before going back to Park if yours is an automatic. 
cam75: thanks for the tip, however I had my driveshaft balanced right in front of my face! it's 0 balanced up to 140mph! After balancing the driveshaft and still having the vibes, I replaced my tailshaft bushing. the problem went away for short time. however it is now back. i installed my stock rear and stock aluminum driveshaft and no vibes. then put the strange shaft and rear back in, and the vibes are once again there. what i will try now is take my micrometer and measure the o.d. of the yoke of both driveshafts and see if there is a difference.
