B&M Hard Lined , now Tranny Temps Hot (SEE INSIDE!)
#1
B&M Hard Lined , now Tranny Temps Hot (SEE INSIDE!)
I had a B&M 24,000 Tranny Cooler mounted right on th eradiator , but it had rubber fuel lines very close to the header. I saw temps at approx 180 while driving fairly hard, unless I was at the track and did several 1/4 runs and then it got to 200 and then I would wait until it cooler a bit.
While I was getting work done and because of the possible danger of tranny fluid being so close on the header with the previous rubber fuel line, they reccomended and hard lined the cooler with AN Fittings and steel braided line, which is cool..................BUT
I think they Bypassed the B&M Cooler from connecting through My Radiator as I THINK they normally are installed, and ran it as a stand alone set up (I Think????????), Meaning it cools the tranny just with the B&M 24,000 cooler (if that makes sense??) My Buddy had this doen to his car but he used the largest B&M Cooler and his temps ******* it today were 175 or so.
ANyway, as I am breaking in my new motor I drove it conservatively home 20 miles (30 minutes) home and the tranny temps were at 200 and climbing and they never got above 180 under way harder conditions.
Then took it out again at night about 80 and cool, drove approx 20 miles and the temps got to 205, which it never got to before.
HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP
What is the problem?
Why Are the Temps High all of a sudden?
Should I get a BIGGER B&M Cooler?
Did the way they hook it up Not allow ity to coool properly and what is the fix?
Could My Tranny all of a sudden be going out??
Can they easily just run it through the Radiator, or is that a bunch of labor?
I want this fixed so I can drive the car normally for 20 miles without it messign up my tranny. I have a 4,000 stall
While I was getting work done and because of the possible danger of tranny fluid being so close on the header with the previous rubber fuel line, they reccomended and hard lined the cooler with AN Fittings and steel braided line, which is cool..................BUT
I think they Bypassed the B&M Cooler from connecting through My Radiator as I THINK they normally are installed, and ran it as a stand alone set up (I Think????????), Meaning it cools the tranny just with the B&M 24,000 cooler (if that makes sense??) My Buddy had this doen to his car but he used the largest B&M Cooler and his temps ******* it today were 175 or so.
ANyway, as I am breaking in my new motor I drove it conservatively home 20 miles (30 minutes) home and the tranny temps were at 200 and climbing and they never got above 180 under way harder conditions.
Then took it out again at night about 80 and cool, drove approx 20 miles and the temps got to 205, which it never got to before.
HELPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP
What is the problem?
Why Are the Temps High all of a sudden?
Should I get a BIGGER B&M Cooler?
Did the way they hook it up Not allow ity to coool properly and what is the fix?
Could My Tranny all of a sudden be going out??
Can they easily just run it through the Radiator, or is that a bunch of labor?
I want this fixed so I can drive the car normally for 20 miles without it messign up my tranny. I have a 4,000 stall
#2
when u say hard lined do u mean they used the little metal lines? if so i think it might be that they used those because metal retains heat. Ive heard of people using just he cooler to cool the tranny and not have any problems.
#3
It's better to run to the radiator & then the cooler because when the car reaches a high temperature while stopped, the fans will run & help to continue to cool the transmission fluid along with the engine. Then, there is the added benefit of additional cooling from the radiator while moving. It is very simple to re-connect the radiator on the way to the transmission cooler. It's a matter of cutting the hard line running to the bottom of the trans. cooler & connecting the trans. cooler side to the top of the radiator & the transmission side to the bottom of the radiator with steel braided hose.
AN fittings can be used to couple the hose to the steel line. Can also adapt Pipe to AN on the radiator in order to connect the hose there. Make sure there is heat shielding on the steel lines. There is a reflective heat wrap that can be put on the steel lines to shield them from the header heat. The wrap by itself may get you reduced temperatures. Good-luck.
AN fittings can be used to couple the hose to the steel line. Can also adapt Pipe to AN on the radiator in order to connect the hose there. Make sure there is heat shielding on the steel lines. There is a reflective heat wrap that can be put on the steel lines to shield them from the header heat. The wrap by itself may get you reduced temperatures. Good-luck.
#4
Just basic steel braided line, but pretty thick, 2 or 3 times the thickness of nitrous line.
So it is just as efficient and cools just as well if you Don't use the radiator in conjunction with the Tranny Cooler to help coool the tranny?
Thanks
So it is just as efficient and cools just as well if you Don't use the radiator in conjunction with the Tranny Cooler to help coool the tranny?
Thanks
#5
Originally Posted by 2001 Red Coupe Bandit
So it is just as efficient and cools just as well if you Don't use the radiator in conjunction with the Tranny Cooler to help coool the tranny?
Thanks
Thanks
#6
I have mine run independently on my RX7 because I don't have the built in trans cooler in the radiator. The only problem is it takes a long time for the trans to get up to temp (say around 120 deg) because the radiator doesn't heat up the fluid.
With my b&m cooler the highest temps I ever saw was 185 stuck in stop and go traffic for over an hour in 90+ degree weather. Normally it's 150 during the day on the highway and 160ish in the city.
Having it run through the radiator usually only helps it get up to temp more quickly (coolant is usually at 200 deg say.. so how would a 200 deg cool down fluid that should be cooler than that?).
With my b&m cooler the highest temps I ever saw was 185 stuck in stop and go traffic for over an hour in 90+ degree weather. Normally it's 150 during the day on the highway and 160ish in the city.
Having it run through the radiator usually only helps it get up to temp more quickly (coolant is usually at 200 deg say.. so how would a 200 deg cool down fluid that should be cooler than that?).
#7
Originally Posted by aram
Having it run through the radiator usually only helps it get up to temp more quickly (coolant is usually at 200 deg say.. so how would a 200 deg cool down fluid that should be cooler than that?).
Don't know that this statement is completely accurate. Yes, running through the radiator does help to heat up cold fluid. Don't know what the 200 degree statement is all about. Transmission fluid run into a radiator also has a cooling effect & can be further cooled by the fans. There is a separate area in the radiator for the transmission fluid. Unless you have taken temperature readings while running through the radiator & not running through the radiator,
there is no evidence of the radiator not having a cooling effect on the transmission fluid. Let's not confuse the issue.
While running through both in rubber lines, his temperatures were acceptable.
Lines changed to steel braided hose & radiator was bypassed. Temperatures became unacceptable. Reasonable solution is to repipe through the radiator & insolate the steel lines for greater efficiency.
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#9
one question for you, is the cooler hooked up right to the transmisson return line(if the cooler lines first go to the radiator). The top line of the radiadiator is the return line and you should splice into the top line for the external trans cooler.
#11
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From: Live Oak, FL - in the woods where the creatures lurk.
If I'm reading this right, the rubber lines connected to the steel tranny lines were close to the headers? Not sure I understand why.
Anyway, I route my fluid through the radiator -> separate cooler -> trans in the summertime.
In the winter I run the fluid through the cooler ->radiator -> trans, so the fluid heats up quicker on cold starts.
Running the cooler after the radiator (max cooling) usually gets me an occasional PO75X code in the winter ever since the 3500 TC was installed.
Anyway, I route my fluid through the radiator -> separate cooler -> trans in the summertime.
In the winter I run the fluid through the cooler ->radiator -> trans, so the fluid heats up quicker on cold starts.
Running the cooler after the radiator (max cooling) usually gets me an occasional PO75X code in the winter ever since the 3500 TC was installed.
#12
It was getting a littl ebetter today. It went up to 200, but after I took it easy dropped back down to 180, then cliembed back to 1980.
It still several times was over 20 degrees Higher than my Radiator Temps.
I think they need to route it through the radiator, OR I can get a bigger B&M Cooler.
It still several times was over 20 degrees Higher than my Radiator Temps.
I think they need to route it through the radiator, OR I can get a bigger B&M Cooler.