Need advice for P0751 code
#1
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I did a search so I all ready know my TCI 3500 is probably responsible for this code (shift solonoid A stuck open or something like that). The car drives fine so I have no issues other then the SES light. I have to pass NY state emissions soon so any code at all will be a fail. I need to make this code go away before I get an inspection.
I read through searches that many people get this code repeatedly and most will just delete the code every time it pops on. I do not have any form of tool or program for reading or clearing codes. I don't have the expertise or knowledge to make buying ls1 edit or HP tuners even close to a wise investment. But the Predator and HTTP are also $300+ and I literally would only ever use it for code scaning and removing.
I don't want to bug autozone once a week with this BS so should I just buy a hand held unit at a parts store? I think they sell the unit they used to scan my code for $150 which is half the price of what I would pay for like a predator. Does this sound like a smarter investment?
I read through searches that many people get this code repeatedly and most will just delete the code every time it pops on. I do not have any form of tool or program for reading or clearing codes. I don't have the expertise or knowledge to make buying ls1 edit or HP tuners even close to a wise investment. But the Predator and HTTP are also $300+ and I literally would only ever use it for code scaning and removing.
I don't want to bug autozone once a week with this BS so should I just buy a hand held unit at a parts store? I think they sell the unit they used to scan my code for $150 which is half the price of what I would pay for like a predator. Does this sound like a smarter investment?
Last edited by darrensls1; 11-18-2005 at 01:18 PM.
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Pulling Diagnostic Trouble Codes is only PART of the inspection. The inspector is also supposed to pull up OBD-II Diagnostic Monitors, which would show wether or not the codes have been recently reset. If you don't want to invest in buying a programmer, then perhaps you could just send your PCM out to one of the vendors and have the code removed?
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Diag monitors are supposed to clear out as well. They were put there to prevent people from having the codes cleared on the way to the inspection station. Clearing the codes will put the monitors to the "not ready" status, and will not switch back to ready until the diagnostic executive is run after a proper drive cycle. Once they all (or most depending on year) say "ready" and no codes are stored, the car gets the sticker (at least thats how it is in Mooresville).
#5
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Originally Posted by TeamTripp
Pulling Diagnostic Trouble Codes is only PART of the inspection. The inspector is also supposed to pull up OBD-II Diagnostic Monitors, which would show wether or not the codes have been recently reset. If you don't want to invest in buying a programmer, then perhaps you could just send your PCM out to one of the vendors and have the code removed?
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Does it only set the code when you drag race? To set a Solenoid "performance" code like these, the PCM is looking at the input -vs- output shaft speeds before and after the shift. Having a high stall converter can put the input speed out of range making the PCM unhappy. During normal driving, you may not stall the converter up as high as you would drag racing and therefore not set the code. So I guess you could clear the codes and drive around "easy" untill you get it inspected.
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I don't know to be honest. I have been driving the car for a month after the TC and headers with a good mix of wot runs and easy city driving. There was even a track day in there where I got three 1/4 mile runs in. The code actually happened while my friend was using my car so I don't know if it was set off on a wot run or just regular acceleration.
But from doing a search (Imagine that mods, a member that searches
) I disovered a few things.
1). It's a very common code for autos to throw after a verter or gears upgrade.
2). 99% of the time cleaning or replacing the solonoid does NOT fix the problem.
3). 99% of the time there is no noticeable adverse affects. The only symptom is the SES light is on. The tranny shifts perfect and the verter locks and unlocks perfectly as well.
After two days the light went off. I was hoping that if I clear out the old code while the SES light is off (assuming the computer happens to not throw it again during the inspection) that I would pass with flying colors.
The light is off now but I expect will come back on at some random point. Maybe a week from now, a month or even a day. But none of my research indicated a permanant fix. But then again, there is no real problem here either. Other then passing inspection once a year.
But from doing a search (Imagine that mods, a member that searches
![EEK !!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_eek2.gif)
1). It's a very common code for autos to throw after a verter or gears upgrade.
2). 99% of the time cleaning or replacing the solonoid does NOT fix the problem.
3). 99% of the time there is no noticeable adverse affects. The only symptom is the SES light is on. The tranny shifts perfect and the verter locks and unlocks perfectly as well.
After two days the light went off. I was hoping that if I clear out the old code while the SES light is off (assuming the computer happens to not throw it again during the inspection) that I would pass with flying colors.
The light is off now but I expect will come back on at some random point. Maybe a week from now, a month or even a day. But none of my research indicated a permanant fix. But then again, there is no real problem here either. Other then passing inspection once a year.
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I only get this code in cooler weather.
Makes no sense, but it's been that way for
several years, same TC. It will usually quit
coming up when I replumb my cooler to be
"before" the radiator, instead of "after" like
I run it in the summer heat.
![Huh](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/huh.gif)
Makes no sense, but it's been that way for
several years, same TC. It will usually quit
coming up when I replumb my cooler to be
"before" the radiator, instead of "after" like
I run it in the summer heat.