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Old Nov 25, 2005 | 08:43 PM
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Default Another 4l60e problem

I've been through 3 trans builds in the last month! The transmission guy has a great rep for 4l60e's and even has one I know of running 9's. I've tried 3 diffrent tuners. When I get the car back each time it shifts out and runs fine at normal driving but at WOT it will pull to about 5K rpm's and flash up like its slipping but if I manual shift it the car will pull to redline. Each time I get it back I dont have much time to trouble shoot it because four or five times with it flashing like that I will loose 3-4 everytime. My mods are: Headers,cam,intake,3200 vig. Anybody have a clue? My trouble started after a cam install, the car ran good and then I sent the PCM off to be tuned and when it got back the car was doing this. The tranny guy says its tunning, the 3 tuners say its the transmission. Any help would be appreciated, this is getting expensive. Thanks
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 12:02 AM
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I think its time to replace your direct clutches (3 rd gear) i have the same problem it started on nos then on motor your trannys shot .
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 12:13 AM
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you need a new tranny builder. Call Rock On in Krum/Denton Texas or do a search for Rock On transmission to get his website.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 04:19 PM
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you have had the tune changed haven't you? mine's doing the same thing i'm trying a different builder this time. car is strong but i don't think strong enough to break 3 trannys either. let us know how you work it out.
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Old Nov 26, 2005 | 10:56 PM
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What size cam are you running? Some cams, like the old MS from TSP, require a Min and Max MAP change or the trans will act funny. If needed, add 10 or 15 to each of these, normally it will be associated with a P0106 MAP code, and or under light throttle the trans will shift up the gears prematurely.
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by laz
I think its time to replace your direct clutches (3 rd gear) i have the same problem it started on nos then on motor your trannys shot .
Yea I know it needs the 3-4 clutches, its the same everytime, they lasted about 4 hours the last rebuild. The car will shift and run fine if I manual shift it but if I for example go from a 45 mph roll in 2nd and and shift to drive after I punch it it pulls to about 4800 and flashes like it jump out of gear but if I hold it in 2nd and shift manually it will pull to 6500 with no problem. WTF? That makes it kinda hard to blame just the tranny.
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 09:40 PM
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Originally Posted by cablebandit
you need a new tranny builder. Call Rock On in Krum/Denton Texas or do a search for Rock On transmission to get his website.
I thought about that long and hard but I dont think I should pay 3 grand for a transmission and still have tuning issues and burn up a brand new transmission. Thanks
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Old Nov 27, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by WeeWolf
you have had the tune changed haven't you? mine's doing the same thing i'm trying a different builder this time. car is strong but i don't think strong enough to break 3 trannys either. let us know how you work it out.
Yea I'm own my 3rd tunner as well, I'm finally using a guy out of Oklahoma that is expensive but is supposed to be the ****. I'm staying with the tranny builder because all of my friends cars run this guys transmissions and are spraying 150 wet through the shifts with no issues going on a year! Plus he is backing up his work and is working real hard on touble shooting this thing, i'll keep you posted.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 07:27 PM
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keep me advised please i'm almost to the point of putting in a th350 just because i have one available but i don't like the idea of loosing overdrive.
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Old Nov 28, 2005 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JETBLACK
Yea I'm own my 3rd tunner as well, I'm finally using a guy out of Oklahoma that is expensive but is supposed to be the ****. I'm staying with the tranny builder because all of my friends cars run this guys transmissions and are spraying 150 wet through the shifts with no issues going on a year! Plus he is backing up his work and is working real hard on touble shooting this thing, i'll keep you posted.

This tranny builder should be watching what in the hell is happening with the tranny as it is frying,with a tech2 or a snap-on scanner or using a shaffer shifter. or even a manual pressure gauge.The fact that he's let it leave the shop like that should concern you.You have a main line pressure drop at the top of the shift for some reason.Whether it be a mechanical issue or a control problem.
But if I was to guess,I would say tuning is the cause.

Last edited by gonzo 6.0; Nov 28, 2005 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 08:18 AM
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I Also Had A Lot Of Problems With My 4l60e After A Build Up And A Cam Install And Never Did Get It Fixed. I Went Through 3 Trannys From A Pro-builder And I Ended Up Going To A Fully Manuel 700r4. Still Have Some Issues But Its Better Than The 4l60e I Had.
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by JETBLACK
I thought about that long and hard but I dont think I should pay 3 grand for a transmission and still have tuning issues and burn up a brand new transmission. Thanks

you mean 1900.00
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 10:29 AM
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Sounds like a typical , control problem to me.....Cavitation also comes to mind...we normally see burned 3-4 as a line pressure issue (control problem), or a bleed off of pressure (cavitation or internal hyd leak) in either case your tranny guy should be able to determine which problem your having, I noticed that you mention that you don't have time to check it out...what is it that you don't have time to do? Put a manual gage on this unit and take it for a spin and watch your pressure as it falls off or as you stated flashing. You will find some answers there, I suspect tuning issues as you mention it didn't happen till you installed the cam, Is this unit vacume modulated?? I do hope this helps...Dave
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Old Nov 29, 2005 | 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Rock-On
Sounds like a typical , control problem to me.....Cavitation also comes to mind...we normally see burned 3-4 as a line pressure issue (control problem), or a bleed off of pressure (cavitation or internal hyd leak) in either case your tranny guy should be able to determine which problem your having, I noticed that you mention that you don't have time to check it out...what is it that you don't have time to do? Put a manual gage on this unit and take it for a spin and watch your pressure as it falls off or as you stated flashing. You will find some answers there, I suspect tuning issues as you mention it didn't happen till you installed the cam, Is this unit vacume modulated?? I do hope this helps...Dave
What I meant by not having time is the guy tuning my car was certain it was the other guys tuning so he was tuning on my car then testing the tuning and after a few times of flashing into the rev limiter I lose 3-4. We are about to go into it again and the builder wants to put a guage on it but where I'm confused is that if I hold the car in a gear and manual shift it I have no problems the car will pull strong all the way to redline. If I go out of drive the car wont pull and it flashes into the rev limiter at 4800. Anyway thanks everybody for yalls input.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 01:50 PM
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if it manually shifts fine then the problem appears to be in the control side. watch the commanded gear on a scan tool and the pressure control amperage during the time it starts acting up. do not allow the trans to continue to slip. as soon as you feel it begin to flare let out. i think you will see that the pcm is trying to command a gear change but the pressure commanded will be low. if you don't see a commanded shift on the scanner around the time it begins to slip then the problem is internal. is it beginning to slip in second waiting for the 2-3 shift or in third waiting for the 3-4.
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Old Nov 30, 2005 | 08:34 PM
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Waiting on the 2-3 shift. Thanks for the info.
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