HP tuners and the 4L60E
Restricted User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 0
You can shorten the adaptation time settings, and
the trans control routine will "learn" to shift faster.
Stock settings are pretty leisurely. If you put the
shift times down to something like 0.150 at the
higher loads you might just be satisfied with that.
Too low a time will just make the shifts run full
pressure although the trans can't actually shift
that fast.
But learning also will wander around on you, so if
you choose you may disable it (adapation shift times
set to zero) and use the shift pressure vs load, and
the shift pressure modifiers, to tailor the shift speed
and firmness. Then it's cut-and-try, for a good long
while.
The last (currently accessible) layer is the force motor
table. I've had to mess that around, to get the same
converter that you've got, to hold locked. Hopefully
you'll use the right tranny fluid and not ruin the clutch,
but that clutch is just not very stout. Otherwise, the
force motor table ought to be left alone (though the
F-bodies have some peculiar "features" there, and a
GTO or 'vette table, or min(all_three) as a synthesis
would be sensible. But, "if it ain't broke...".
You can go too far with shift pressures. Beyond the
point of cleanest shifting you can get into timing
problems between apply and release events, too
high a pressure in previous gear slows the release
and you may feel the trans "fight itself" during the
shift. This is where knowing when to quit, comes in
handy (and learning from mistakes is overrated).
If you push on the shift pressure tables, keep track
of where things seem to stop improving as you bump
it (this point varying by the load, different for each
gear, even trans coolant temp, etc.). By the way,
tranny cooler, and a big one.
If you pull one of my later .bins off Horist's site it
will have a "pretty good" trans setup, bearing in mind
gearing differences; I haven't put up any of the ones
where I jacked the force motor stuff around, because
I consider that a little more dangerous to the
unsuspecting. Though it hasn't broke nuthin' yet.
the trans control routine will "learn" to shift faster.
Stock settings are pretty leisurely. If you put the
shift times down to something like 0.150 at the
higher loads you might just be satisfied with that.
Too low a time will just make the shifts run full
pressure although the trans can't actually shift
that fast.
But learning also will wander around on you, so if
you choose you may disable it (adapation shift times
set to zero) and use the shift pressure vs load, and
the shift pressure modifiers, to tailor the shift speed
and firmness. Then it's cut-and-try, for a good long
while.
The last (currently accessible) layer is the force motor
table. I've had to mess that around, to get the same
converter that you've got, to hold locked. Hopefully
you'll use the right tranny fluid and not ruin the clutch,
but that clutch is just not very stout. Otherwise, the
force motor table ought to be left alone (though the
F-bodies have some peculiar "features" there, and a
GTO or 'vette table, or min(all_three) as a synthesis
would be sensible. But, "if it ain't broke...".
You can go too far with shift pressures. Beyond the
point of cleanest shifting you can get into timing
problems between apply and release events, too
high a pressure in previous gear slows the release
and you may feel the trans "fight itself" during the
shift. This is where knowing when to quit, comes in
handy (and learning from mistakes is overrated).
If you push on the shift pressure tables, keep track
of where things seem to stop improving as you bump
it (this point varying by the load, different for each
gear, even trans coolant temp, etc.). By the way,
tranny cooler, and a big one.
If you pull one of my later .bins off Horist's site it
will have a "pretty good" trans setup, bearing in mind
gearing differences; I haven't put up any of the ones
where I jacked the force motor stuff around, because
I consider that a little more dangerous to the
unsuspecting. Though it hasn't broke nuthin' yet.
