Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

I know the FLP 4L60e is built strong and has been holding up well for some hi hp cars, but with the added expense for swapping over to a 350 or 400, is it worth it?
I am deciding on which way to go. I don't want to keep throwing $$$ at my current built 4L60e. I have spent too much to do it again for another ~1000 miles.
The 400 weighs more than the 350, but is it that much stronger?
Swapping over to a 350 or 400, is there any catches to doing the swap besides: drive shaft, mount, convertor, shifter, tricker?
What about 1st gears in either one? What is the lowest 1st available?

Tim

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

If you're staying with heads/cam, I'd definitely go w/ FLP's level IV. They're putting a lot more power through their built trannies than what heads/cam cars are throwing at it. I know what you mean about throwing money at trannies. My T/A was damn good at killing them. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> The lowest 1st gear I've heard of that's currently available for the 350 or 400 is 2.75:1. 2.52:1 is what is normally found. FWIW, I was able to use my stock shifter w/ the TH350 in my T/A. It just didn't use 1st on the indicator. You'll have small details like the dipstick, but that won't be a big deal. I think you should give Chuck a call at FLP. If you do decide to take the TH400 route, he can build you a LOCKUP unit. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> This would be the way to go IMO because I can personally tell you that fat converters w/ no lockup completely sucks on the street. My car annoyed the hell out of me whenever I got in it. The only time I enjoyed the setup was at the track. Just plan on having a nice drag car if you do the conversion. You can contact Chuck at (630)820-9294 or transguy@sprynet.com
My vote is for the FLP level IV.

Jason99T/A

iTrader: (21)

Hey Shorty, I found this link for you:
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/cgi-bin/ulti...c&f=2&t=000515

Lots of info on the swap. You can thank me later. <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" /> LOL

<small>[ April 28, 2002, 01:38 AM: Message edited by: Jason99T/A ]</small>

iateyourcat

I'm not sure if a lockup is the way to go. The lockup added about $1500 to the price of a TH400 from Chuck. You might be better off with a GV OD instead of the lockup. Also from what I've heard it's only worth about .5mph and no ET at the track...

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

Trevor, after talking with some people last nite, I am going to go with the TH350. There is a guy here in town that is known to build some good ones, so I might be using him. I will be getting the 2.75 1st gear installed too. email me how you made your stock shifter to work. Why would anyone want a non lock up tranny for the street? YUCK I understand Chuck won't build a TH350 for some reason. Anyone know why?

iateyourcat, why would a lock up version cost $1500.00 MORE than a non-lock up? That's kinda high. The whole tranny should only cost that much.

Tim

FLP

Tim, I don't know where that 350 info came from,I do build the 350 lock-up's but just not with the trans brake option.Just make sure your trans builder uses a 36 element sprag drum if your running some serious h/p,that's the weak link in the 350's.As far as the lock-up 400 being 1500.00 higher in price,it's definitly a costly trans to build being the converter,pump,and valvebody cost that easily,not to mention even more if you want a trans brake included.The 350 is by far the cheapest of the two to build,so I hope that clears up any questions that you might have heard.

Chuck/FLP

Trevor @ Texas Speed & Perf.

iTrader: (3)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by iateyourcat:
<strong>You might be better off with a GV OD instead of the lockup. Also from what I've heard it's only worth about .5mph and no ET at the track...</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A GV unit isn't going to solve the problem of a LOOSE converter on the street. You'll still be able to tach 4,000+ going up a hill, overpass, etc.. The lockup is definitely worth the money IMO if you're wanting to drive it on the street at all. Is your local builder going to build you a lockup TH350? I hope he really knows what he's doing because I can't tell you how many "local builds" I've seen crap on people with very few miles.
As for the stock shifter, it wasn't a big deal. The shifter linkage snapped right on.

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by FLP:
<strong>Tim, I don't know where that 350 info came from,I do build the 350 lock-up's but just not with the trans brake option.
Chuck/FLP</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Chuck, I may have heard wrong, (obvioulsy), but the person that told me said you didn't mention the TH350. I don't want a brake, but I want a forward valve body. Now someone has also told me NOT to get the full automatic valve body because they don't last. (Dunno why)
Chuck, I will be calling you tomorrow to discuss a TH350 build. Thanks
Tim

Holes02

If you plan to stay with your Heads/Cam setup, or something like it, I don't think you'll need a TH350/TH400. I've been in Bos' car, and lemme tell ya, on the highway, it's no fun.

If you're looking at the FLP Level 4 Tranny, you may also want to look at Speed Inc's "Race Prepped" 4L60E trans.
I've been in a car equipped with this trans and it shifts very fast. It's holding up to the power as well. I believe their transmissions are rated up to 600ft/lbs., but don't quote me on that.

Just thought I'd mention it as a lower cost option to the FLP Trans. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

BIGBOS

Yea, they are rated at that.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Me and billy tested out the car again on the highway with the new exhaust...I got to a nice cruise at 60mph at 3000 rpms steady, and I could raise it up to 70-75mph and it would still hold 3000-3500 rpms at times...not too bad considering its a non locking 4500 converter... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

<small>[ April 28, 2002, 07:50 PM: Message edited by: BIGBOS ]</small>

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

Here's my input. I was told by my tranny guy herer in town. That if my car was going to be a track only car and not see much street driving that I should go with the TH350. But since I drive the car alot on the street he said go with the 400 because the 350's that are driven alot one of the parts in them that makes them hold up does not hold up well to alot of street driving and they need to be rebuilt quicker. As far as driveability goes. I love the 400 in the car

L8r
Will

BIGBOS

I drive my non-lockup setup all the time, I got a TH400 with a JW "J" Stator 10" 4500 converter...its not that bad, but I am lowering it for spray...

Its for sale by the way if anyone wants a badass converter for motor... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Superman

Just get one of Chucks transmissions.. I think it`s one of the strongest, best built, transmissions out there. Spend the money once and spend it right. I wouldn`t fool with anything else.

The Guy in MY 99TA

I guess I'm gunna be the DUMB and CHEAP b*st*rd out of the croud....... What will be the prices of the 3 trannies (depending on options)????

Hopefully money won't be a problem for me when these options come up but..... if the money is right on a th400 or th350 I might sacrifice the street driving for the dependability and the size of the wallet for more hp mods.

Josh S.

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

A TH350/400 will be ALOT cheaper than the FLP built 4L60. I paid 1480 for my tranny and I changed out the 1st gear to a 2.75 ratio (which was 480 dollars extra for the gearset) So really if you want a stock geared 350/400 you're looking about about a grand. Mine is a reverse pattern with a transbrake. Those prices are just for the tranny mind you. There is alot of stuff you will need to complete the swap as well

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

I was quoted today a price of $880.00 for the TH4oo and $1100.00 for the TH350. The 400 being cheaper and stronger, which of the 2 do you think I'll choose. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
No transbrake and forward shift pattern.

BTW, who makes a drive shaft for the TH400 to bolt up to a Moser 12bolt? Anyone know the u-joint #'s for this. What about a good convertor. I was thinking of an ATI unit. I have used their stuff in the past in glide trannies and they held up flawlessly.
Is Yank the only place to get a piece so I can hook up my speedo?
I'm gettin close to install time.

Tim

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

Tim,

I have a moser 9" with a 1350 joint. I'm getting a dennys nitrous driveshaft soon. right now I just have a driveshaft that I had made here locally and it was only balanced to like 500 rpm so it is way out of balance in the upper RPM ranges <img border="0" title="" alt="[Sad]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> As for a converter. I'm running a JW off the shelf converter. It stalls to around 4500 on the transbrake on my fairly stock motor (lid, maf ends, and cutout) Yank also makes great converters. I have heard anything about the ATI ones though so I cant really help you out there. If you're going to be doing alot of street driving I'd opt for the 400. the 350 will be lighter and can be made as strong. But like I said before I've heard they dont last very long with heavy street use. Maybe someone with one that has alot of street driving and say otherwise. But the added weight is maybe 20-30 lbs. To me that's not worth the peace of mind that I wont have to rebuild in the near future.

Tim98TA

iTrader: (7)

I am definetly going with the TH400. I just have to find out which driveshaft, u-joint I need.

Tim

BIGBOS

Tim you want to buy my converter... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

MacGyver

iTrader: (5)

Tim,

I'd definately go with a dennys driveshaft with a 1350 u-joint. Of course it really depends on what joint is on your rear end currently and if you're willing to change it to a 1350 if it's only a 1310.