I wondering which is the input and output on the stock tranny cooler (top or bottom) I am hoping to install a new cooler in a series with the stock one, but after it so as to further cool the fluid before being put into the transmission.

Does anyone know which one is which? Also, what size fitting do they take, i think i will use stainless line...will braided work?

 

anyone?

 

common, someone knows this, a bunch of you guys have tranny coolers!

 

help please!

 

The top is the Inlet to the cooler, while the bottom is the outlet. If you are using a universal cooler, like offered from B&M, it comes with everything needed to properly install it.

 

I'm pretty sure the bottom is the inlet and the top is the outlet. The line that has the clamp on it and isn't crimped from the factory should be the return line and it should be coming from the top of the radiator. Like 12secSS said, the cooler comes with more parts than you need to install it.

 

well, now im trying to decide on where to install it... probably on the front side of the radiator... will a B&M 24k fit there?

 

I put mine on the front side of the condensor to get the best airflow, bottom/inlet top/outlet

 

is your engine temp any warmer because of this? I would think it would cut down on overall airflow...

 

I bypassed the whole thing. Ran -6 pushloch from the tranny to the cooler mounted in front of the plastic thingy behind the bumper. Yes, I said thingy.

 

I have a B&M 29,200 gvw after the stock radiator oil cooler ... did the internal stock radiator cooler bypass yesterday and it pushed my temps more than 15* higher. Took out the bypass this morning to run the fluid back through the stock cooler and took it out for a long drive. Temps came back down.

Since the bypass made things worse, I'm looking at running a second aftermarket cooler. Anybody here do a secondary aftermarket cooler and see much of a temperature drop?

 

Now that seems bizarre to me.....where/how is your cooler located? With sufficient airflow to the cooler, I would think that if your not getting the heat soak from the coolant in the radiator, your tranny fluid temps should go nowhere but down. I even called B&M and asked their stance on the subject......they say absolutely bypass the factory cooler and use the external cooler exclusively. Any input from anyone else?

 

does putting a cooler in front of the condenser raise ect temps?

 

My B&M 24k cooler is in front of the a/c condensor. It didn't have an effect on ECT, not that I've noticed anyway. I've got my fans coming on pretty early though.

 

As stated above, top is the outlet line. Connect the extra cooler to the top line.

Retaining the factory cooler is really only an issue if you have stock fan settings. That will allow your coolant to reach as high as 220-230 degrees in summer stop and go traffic, and heat the trans fluid further. If you have lower fan settings, it won't pre-heat the fluid nearly as much.

My fans are set to keep the coolant in the 194-204 range.
I have a B&M 16,000gvw cooler mounted in front of the condenser.
I have a stock torque converter at the moment.
My trans temps never go any higher than 175-180 (via a scanner, not a gage), even in summer stop and go traffic.

 

have you noticed a higher ect temp since putting the tranny cooler infront of the condenser? do you think a slightly larger cooler would fit/further raise the engine temp? Also, how do you have it attached?

 

No. Coolant temps stayed the same, and the fans didn't seem to run any more often then before.

Depending on how you mount it, larger will fit. I doubt it would raise engine temp by anything significant, since the 16K didn't seem to make any difference at all.


I did not use the method described in the instructions for the B&M kit. I have my own prefered method that I've used on all my 4th gen cars. I drill two mounting holes in the bottom lip of the frame that surrounds the condenser (just above where the lower air deflector/dam bolts to). I use nuts/bolts to attach the cooler to that frame, then I drill two oversized holes (big enough to allow the lines to move freely without being pinched or cut) in the air deflector to run the rubber lines though.

I do not use the supplied hose from B&M, it is 11/32" size which is too big for the factory hard pipe and will likely slip off over time even when clamped down well (that has happened to me before). I use Goodyear 5/16" trans cooler line. I like the Goodyear hose because in addition to having a 1/32" smaller inner diameter (beleive it or not that does make a difference) it's actually a thicker outer diameter than the B&M hose, meaning the the clamps will not collapse the hose or bottom out while tightening.

I run one side of the 5/16" hose into the factory hard pipe on the top line, and use a double sided barbed brass fitting to connect the other side to the factory hose. I don't use the B&M brass fittings for this, because you would have to screw two of them together for it to be barbed on both sides, and the threads have more chance of leaking than just getting one solid double sided fitting.

I then use fuel injection/compression/nut-bolt style clamps to clamp all the lines together. I don't care for the B&M supplied worm gear type clamps for this application.

 

wow, thanks for all the info...

would it be smart just to put the tranny temp sender on the final return line to the transmission for now, until i get a new transmission and have the send put in the pan?

also, do you replace the entire return line, or just connect back into the stock one somehow?

 

what type/size of fitting would be needed for the actual input tube to the transmission where it connects to the transmission casing? Is it the same size as the fluid out put fitting on the tranny casing as well? I was thinking about replacing both of the stock tubes with stainless steel hoses to help bleed off some heat as well...

 

This is just for informational purposes since most of you can't go to the extreme I did.

I have an Auto Meter pro comp tranny temp guage, sender is mounted in the pan. I have no AC condenser, no fog lights, no bumper support. My B&M hi tek cooler is mounted directly to the radiator and I bypassed the radiator and my front air dam is still there but all the other plastics in front are gone.
I was driving around for over an hour saturday in 95 degree heat and my tranny temps got up to 165.
I thought I was going to have to pull over.......
This is with a 4k stall by the way.....