Vig 3200 just installed
#21
Originally Posted by 1fastz
nothing wrong with going bigger than a 3200... nobody should get anything less than a 3200, it would be a complete waste of money. I have a 3200 stall and i love it. If i could.. i would have bought a bigger stall if i would have known how driveable stalls are, but then again... i got a good *** deal on the 3200.
#22
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Originally Posted by 1fastz
nothing wrong with going bigger than a 3200... nobody should get anything less than a 3200, it would be a complete waste of money. I have a 3200 stall and i love it. If i could.. i would have bought a bigger stall if i would have known how driveable stalls are, but then again... i got a good *** deal on the 3200.
#24
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See,....Im try'n to decide. I have 1K to mess arround with and im debating between 1.) 3200-3600 stall conv
2.) a ZEX nitrous system
3.) LT's w/ Y-pipe
2000 WS6 T/A
4L60E
Blk/Blk
MODS: Cold Air free-mod, K&N filter, SLP Air Lid, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Smooth Bellows, EGR free mod, SLP LoudMouth and DiabloSport w/SLP tune
2.) a ZEX nitrous system
3.) LT's w/ Y-pipe
2000 WS6 T/A
4L60E
Blk/Blk
MODS: Cold Air free-mod, K&N filter, SLP Air Lid, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Smooth Bellows, EGR free mod, SLP LoudMouth and DiabloSport w/SLP tune
#25
If the Vig3200 does stall higher than I will prob stick with it then, Im pretty sure Im getting a cam swapped in around the same time was recommended a tr224 but will prob go bigger than that . I think im gonna hold off on the 3:73s and I might add a 100- 125 shot. Can the Vig handle the nitrious?(im sure it can as much as it is but just thought id ask), and if the 10bolt ever breaks I will just get the 3:73s with the new Rear.
WS6Rampage, If you got around a 1K to mess with you can prob pick 2 out of the 3 u just listed. The Pacesetter LTs and ORY sell right at $500 for the package together. and I know the ZEX kit is around $500 for the kit and most torque converts are around $500 BRANDS like TCI,Fuddle, and Edge. I dont have my converter yet but I know your gonna need a Tranny cooler thats another $50-60, and from what I hear the Trans Go shift kit is good to install when you do the torque converter its around $100 extra.
WS6Rampage, If you got around a 1K to mess with you can prob pick 2 out of the 3 u just listed. The Pacesetter LTs and ORY sell right at $500 for the package together. and I know the ZEX kit is around $500 for the kit and most torque converts are around $500 BRANDS like TCI,Fuddle, and Edge. I dont have my converter yet but I know your gonna need a Tranny cooler thats another $50-60, and from what I hear the Trans Go shift kit is good to install when you do the torque converter its around $100 extra.
#26
Tech Resident
how is the tightness on this converter and what is your gearing?
i'm trying to gauge what is tighter, a vig converter or a yank converter of same performance. i may want to go converter in the future but i never want to change my 2.73's for fuel, traction and parts-friendliness (i.e. the 10-bolt) reasons. i'd likely get a 3500 vig or yank 3600. i mean, they're around the same damn price range, why skimp over $50 at this point?
i'm trying to gauge what is tighter, a vig converter or a yank converter of same performance. i may want to go converter in the future but i never want to change my 2.73's for fuel, traction and parts-friendliness (i.e. the 10-bolt) reasons. i'd likely get a 3500 vig or yank 3600. i mean, they're around the same damn price range, why skimp over $50 at this point?
#27
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Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
how is the tightness on this converter and what is your gearing?
i'm trying to gauge what is tighter, a vig converter or a yank converter of same performance. i may want to go converter in the future but i never want to change my 2.73's for fuel, traction and parts-friendliness (i.e. the 10-bolt) reasons. i'd likely get a 3500 vig or yank 3600. i mean, they're around the same damn price range, why skimp over $50 at this point?
i'm trying to gauge what is tighter, a vig converter or a yank converter of same performance. i may want to go converter in the future but i never want to change my 2.73's for fuel, traction and parts-friendliness (i.e. the 10-bolt) reasons. i'd likely get a 3500 vig or yank 3600. i mean, they're around the same damn price range, why skimp over $50 at this point?
#28
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Originally Posted by Charlie Hustle
another question....my mods are in my sig, and my car is UNtunned. my friends ss is a m6 with long tubes, lid, off road y pipe, cat back, and its tunned. does our race sound about right? he beat me by about 1/2 a car. 30mph-105pmh. thanks in advance
#30
11 Second Club
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I have a Yank 3500 2.5 STR and it is very tight.....when I first got it in and drove it I wrote in that it took about 2200 to get moving and 2500 to stay with traffic. Now that I am used to it, I can creep around in the neighborhood at 1500 and stay below 2000 going to work. I drive 2 miles and never go over 35. In 3rd it locks between 25-30 MPH and in 4th it locks at 35. It still takes about 2500 to stay with traffic. When cruising around at 35-40 MPH and going WOT it flashes to 4200-4500 RPM's and shift extension is 5100. I lost 1-2 MPG. Now I am talking to Yank about restalling to 4K. I would go with a 3600 or bigger. Very streetable and after a week or so, it feels normal. I can't imagine driving a stock stalled car now.
#31
TECH Fanatic
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the Vig3200 is a great all around stall. I've outgrown it now that i have h/c and a 12 bolt but i've put 24k daily driven/cruised/street raced/tarck raced miles on it without one single issue. If you are considering this converter for a daily driver/strip car you can't go wrong. If you want to hook at the track you will need sticky tires. I managed 1.80 my first time out with street tires. 1.70 with headers and sticky tires.
With my b&m cooler i've had no trans temp issues. I never installed a temp guage as it was not needed. Accoring to my scanner it would only reach 180 ish hot lapping at the track.
With my b&m cooler i've had no trans temp issues. I never installed a temp guage as it was not needed. Accoring to my scanner it would only reach 180 ish hot lapping at the track.
#32
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DO the converter first!! Of course, those mods can help you alot too, but its all about getting off the line, if your off the line first, you have a waaaay better chance of winning than playing catch up with the zex kit or LT;s, add the stall, then the LTs and nitrous, and you'll be killin people
Originally Posted by WS6Rampage
See,....Im try'n to decide. I have 1K to mess arround with and im debating between 1.) 3200-3600 stall conv
2.) a ZEX nitrous system
3.) LT's w/ Y-pipe
2000 WS6 T/A
4L60E
Blk/Blk
MODS: Cold Air free-mod, K&N filter, SLP Air Lid, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Smooth Bellows, EGR free mod, SLP LoudMouth and DiabloSport w/SLP tune
2.) a ZEX nitrous system
3.) LT's w/ Y-pipe
2000 WS6 T/A
4L60E
Blk/Blk
MODS: Cold Air free-mod, K&N filter, SLP Air Lid, SLP 85mm MAF, SLP Smooth Bellows, EGR free mod, SLP LoudMouth and DiabloSport w/SLP tune
#33
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Originally Posted by Charlie Hustle
^ what kind of tires were you running when you ran that 12.6?
#34
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The vig3200 is a well balance converter. I've been able to manage numerous 1.5s 60fts with good weather & during the heat of the summer low 1.6s all day long. This is with alot of supporting mods, Prostars, MT drs, Skinneys, !power steering, & all the bmr stuff. There are better race converters out there but the vig3200 does just fine.
Have fun.
Have fun.
#35
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my vig flashes at 3800 with my mods (bolt ons, cam, tune). best 60ft (several consistent ones) were 1.66's with a dead hook one after the other on 17" dr's. I am limited in the 60ft by gearing and/or raceweight (which is 3700lbs). I'm hoping to better those numbers when i try running the car with the heads. The STR is only a 2.17 so it won't hit as hard as say a yank ss3600 or a yank ss3800.
#37
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Gun5, i haven't been overly impressed with the step from the vig3200 to vig3600 results i've seen on here. The vig3200 has a 94% efficiency rating compared to 90% for the 3600 (which if i remember is around an actual 4400 stall).