ChocoTaco369

that's a built 4L60E. we're talking stock, here. the object of this post is basically to answer the question "how can i maintain my 4L60E". this is geared towards the newbies and toward people that don't wanna heavily mod their car and don't have 2 grand to shell out on a built transmission...like me

the object is to preserve a stock 4L60E when money is tight. believe me, if i could afford a built 4L60E, i'd already have one with a vig 3200 in it.

02NBMFormula

iTrader: (6)

i think that is just another factor that helps kill the tranny. any time you have a lot of force (torque) moving fast (high rpms) there can be problems. but you can prevent some by propperly mantaining the car. and honestly, how many people are going to get a cam that makes great power above 6k rpm and not spin it that high???

TAwhore

what about TQ management??? how many ppl have killed thier trannies by getting rid of it

ChocoTaco369

i think this is why RPM's are a bigger killing factor than torque management. the torque between shifts becomes less destructive due to torque management. i think it's the high rpm spinning and gear banging killing everything rather than power.

now take off torque management and things get much more dangerous much faster. now power is as big a factor as RPM's.

this is my logic and understanding, anyway.

01WS6er

iTrader: (2)

It does all depend on how you take care of it. A friend of mine had a 95 Z28 A4 Lt1, eng had lt4 hot cam, 1.6 rockers, and 200 shot of nos on it. He run it just about every week end at the local track. at around 85-90,000 miles at the track he sent the 1-2 shift ball thru the seperator plate. He also had a stock convertor and internal in the trans. About every 10,000 miles he performed a fluid and filter change. He bough tthe car w/ about 20,000 miles on it. No bad for an all out weekend warrior

Slacker

My totally stock trans (except cooler/converter)with 76K and over 100 passes has been holding up fine (knock on wood!!). With the 1st cam the shift point was 6800 and now I have it at 7k. I know sooner or later it's going to , not sure why this trans is lasting so long. I was planning for it to quit a couple season's ago. My 60's are always in the 1.6's & with good weather 1.5's. I run regular dyno oil, but I do mix in a qt or two of F-type to help it from not slipping (not sure if it helps, but i've been doing it for the last 2 season's).

charlie c5

iTrader: (6)

I had the same concern. I am at the end of a 1000 rwhp C5 project. and I was getting worried that I may have to chop my vette up to be able to install a TH350 or a 400, then I remembered a little company who calls themselves."Lingenfelter." Tim, who is the guy I buy all of my parts from there at Lingenfelter told me that Rossler builds all of there trannys. I called Carl Rossler, he owns Rossler Transmission. I gave him the details on my project. He re-informed me about all of the hundreds of 427 Turbo C5's he has built 4L60E's for, and the power they put down, and the fact that the people that can even afford to buy a Vette, and then spend another 50 + thousand $$$ from Lingenfelter would not be too happy to have there tranny go out. Rossler all the way for me. I was talking to a couple of the vendors here on the board, but after a few not returned calls, and letters, I have desided on Rossler for my project.

Marc 85Z28

iTrader: (8)

You did not specify stock or not. Regardless, the 4L60E CAN be made to handle decent power. And I only paid $1000 for my rebuild by a very reputable builder who sponsors many boards, just not this one. I can't tell you how many Rock-On, FLP, Rossler, etc etc big name builders transmissions he had in his shop when I was there...

My Z28's Pro Built 700r4 has been taking everything I've thrown at it for over 6 years!

My TA's CPT tranny has been in for over a year.

HossZ28

iTrader: (5)

Can anytone tell me the max rpms of a t56. I have been considering converting to a manual and never thought about this.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

With the T56 your motor will determine your rev limit, not your tranny.

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

well i did nitrous and still shifted at the exact same RPM as usual bout 6k and mine is slipping right now, so but also has 108k miles on it so u never no.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

Sprayed through the shifts or shut off in between?

bjamick

iTrader: (31)

i only made 2 passes from bout 0-100MPH 1st pass let off b/t shifts 2nd i didnt!!

ChocoTaco369

that may have something to do with it. i personally think N2O is one of the worst mods for your tranny's life, even if you don't spray between shifts. the reason i think this is because all of a sudden it gets hit with a big wave of power out of nowhere. i think that's way more detrimental than a turbo or blower because with those methods of FI, the power isn't so sudden.

BlackHawk T/A

iTrader: (3)

That's why the progressive controller was invented.

HossZ28

iTrader: (5)

Can anyone tell me what actually breaks in the transmission once you pass 6000 rpms?

Is this the spring that comes with shift kits or is this something different and where can you get it?

bene

iTrader: (16)

I'd like to know about this too. What is this spring you talk about?

HossZ28

iTrader: (5)

He says that it is the pump spring in the transmission. But I dont speak German so I dont know what that means or where to get a replacement.

c0ncEpT

iTrader: (4)

A buddy of mine has an H/C LS1 (MS3) and he shifts it at 6600 with a 6800 limiter and he hasent had any problems with it at all. The trans also has over 60K on it

joecar

It doesn't just break in one go, but rather over time the clutches and band slip due to excessive rotating speed differences (e.g. the band has to stop the drum which is spinning at 1.63 times the input shaft, or something like that), and the slipping causes them to get burnt or glazed which allows them to slip further...
This slipping heats up the fluid which fries the internal seals, causing them to become hard and brittle allowing them to leak which allows slipping...
Burnt clutch/band particles can jam the various valves in their bores in the valve body, which prevents shifting or makes the shift hard/soft...
The excess sludge created by slipping can plug the solenoid orifices and can cause the checkballs to not seat properly, and can clog the filter leading to low pressure, low flow, and low lubrication.

At times, the hard parts (like the sun shell, the one way sprag, input/output shafts, etc...) can twist or snap or otherwise break with sudden application of torque and rpm.

And that's only what I can think of at 1:30am...