Yank messing up Idle
what can that be? the idle goes from 0.5rpm to 1000, goes up and down when I go slow and last time it died almost in the middle of the road
What can that be? or do I need to tune it?
What can that be? or do I need to tune it?
Yea, well I got the car with the yank, I doubt they tunned it. Can anybody explain me a little bit about that? Im new to that, and the guy just said the yank could be used in 3rd gear and is at 3500 rpm
thanx
thanx
I think you're confused a bit..."Yank" is a torque converter company. Seems you have a 3500 stall converter. It is also not "used" by yourself, rather it moves the car and without it you would go nowhere. I was rather amused last week when someone brought that up but everyone has to start somewhere.
Idle problems can arise when going to a smaller diameter, lightweight torque converter. Same thing a lightweight flywheel can do to an M6 car (so i've heard). A bump in idle speed and airflow can fix this...talk with a tuner.
Idle problems can arise when going to a smaller diameter, lightweight torque converter. Same thing a lightweight flywheel can do to an M6 car (so i've heard). A bump in idle speed and airflow can fix this...talk with a tuner.
^^ even a stock diameter converter with a higher stall can cause idle issues. Easy fix as described, just bump up the in gear idle. Not sure it applies to you LS1 guys, but on an A4 LT1 stepping up the closed tps timing (aka idle) helps smooth it out too.
Trending Topics
Without the heavy flywheel mass of the chubby stock
converter, any instability in the idle tune is magnified.
You want the idle RPM up a little, the idle airflow up
substantially, probably more idle spark advance and
some attention to the low-RPM mixture (VE table for
the most part, also shaving back on the cold open loop
enrichment).
Even with a stock setup I had some stalling trouble
with a TCI 3000, especially go-brake-go type action.
All pretty easily fixed but it's got nothing to do with
the dyno, it's a parking lot job pretty much.
converter, any instability in the idle tune is magnified.
You want the idle RPM up a little, the idle airflow up
substantially, probably more idle spark advance and
some attention to the low-RPM mixture (VE table for
the most part, also shaving back on the cold open loop
enrichment).
Even with a stock setup I had some stalling trouble
with a TCI 3000, especially go-brake-go type action.
All pretty easily fixed but it's got nothing to do with
the dyno, it's a parking lot job pretty much.
well my friend I bet is very easy but when I didnt do that before I have no clue how to fix it, could you just send a link or something where is going to tell me how?
thanx
thanx
Originally Posted by Christian8A
Yea, well I got the car with the yank, I doubt they tunned it. Can anybody explain me a little bit about that? Im new to that, and the guy just said the yank could be used in 3rd gear and is at 3500 rpm
thanx
thanx
When u get a tc put in you have to get ur pcm tuned, so that it can idle, and shift right etc.......
Originally Posted by Figz Z28
When u get a tc put in you have to get ur pcm tuned, so that it can idle, and shift right etc....... 

Originally Posted by BlackHawk T/A
You don't "have" to, I haven't yet and have been driving for 8 months on the stock tune. It doesn't have any problems shifting or idling, but the idle does bounce sometimes.
Not all cars are the same and yes u would need to get a tune cuz ur rpms are going to climb alot faster than ur speedo, causing u to hit the rev.
Originally Posted by Figz Z28
yes u would need to get a tune cuz ur rpms are going to climb alot faster than ur speedo, causing u to hit the rev. 

Originally Posted by Figz Z28
Not all cars are the same

