Tranny cooler and Cold Air kit problems?
09-15-2006, 12:25 AM
#1
Tranny cooler and Cold Air kit problems? Guys I'm going to install a tranny cooler and I want to get the SLP CIA. Will their be any problems putting both on the car. I know most install the cooler in front of the condenser. It looks from the pictures the SLP CIA goes down in front of the condenser also. Are their any fitment problems with both of these installed or is there enough room. Also if anyone has any pics of how they mounted their tranny cooler it would be nice if anyone could post them. I tryed to use the search button but we know its not working now so that was a no go. Thanks.
09-15-2006, 08:34 AM
#3
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I cut off all but the last 1-2" of the CAI and
re-ducted it because it was so tight with my
trans cooler (and was making my IATs hotter
than without it, SS hood). If you have a big
cooler there just isn't that much available
real estate. Consider "Dope Style" or some
other mount for the cooler, and consider some
insulation on the inside of the CAI is my advice
(or, if you haven't already paid for it, another
cold air scheme entirely).
re-ducted it because it was so tight with my
trans cooler (and was making my IATs hotter
than without it, SS hood). If you have a big
cooler there just isn't that much available
real estate. Consider "Dope Style" or some
other mount for the cooler, and consider some
insulation on the inside of the CAI is my advice
(or, if you haven't already paid for it, another
cold air scheme entirely).
09-15-2006, 10:20 AM
#4
Originally Posted by jimmyblue
I cut off all but the last 1-2" of the CAI and
re-ducted it because it was so tight with my
trans cooler (and was making my IATs hotter
than without it, SS hood). If you have a big
cooler there just isn't that much available
real estate. Consider "Dope Style" or some
other mount for the cooler, and consider some
insulation on the inside of the CAI is my advice
(or, if you haven't already paid for it, another
cold air scheme entirely).
re-ducted it because it was so tight with my
trans cooler (and was making my IATs hotter
than without it, SS hood). If you have a big
cooler there just isn't that much available
real estate. Consider "Dope Style" or some
other mount for the cooler, and consider some
insulation on the inside of the CAI is my advice
(or, if you haven't already paid for it, another
cold air scheme entirely).
09-15-2006, 11:48 AM
#5
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I reworked mine to draw from above the divider panel
and opened up the "nostrils" in the Camaro grille by
taking a steak knife to the styrofoam, so there's some
decent air path into the nose.
I haven't had much opportunity to look at standard
Z/28 hoods but it seems to me the air slot in the
airbox draws from this space, but it is also not well
segregated from the engine compartment. This is
where the hot air problem comes from.
It seems to me that if you simply added a seal or
just a "close enough" baffle plate, like comes with
the FIPK type setups, you would get cold air and
no shrouding of the radiator. It's something you
could fab up with Home Depot aluminum angle
(or whatever) and a saber saw; black plastic
angle, maybe even easier. It's not a ducted cold air
system but a free-path one. But as long as you do
not believe in the "ram air" tooth fairy this is fine,
cold air is cold air. My setup draws from the above-
divider space and IATs are right about ambient
while as-delivered the SLP CAI was raising them
about 10 degrees (before that, the SS hood alone
was 1-2 degrees above).
Opening up the bottom of the airbox doesn't appear
to be a very significant improvement since there are
tighter chokes in the intake tract, than the 11"x3/4"
air slot.
and opened up the "nostrils" in the Camaro grille by
taking a steak knife to the styrofoam, so there's some
decent air path into the nose.
I haven't had much opportunity to look at standard
Z/28 hoods but it seems to me the air slot in the
airbox draws from this space, but it is also not well
segregated from the engine compartment. This is
where the hot air problem comes from.
It seems to me that if you simply added a seal or
just a "close enough" baffle plate, like comes with
the FIPK type setups, you would get cold air and
no shrouding of the radiator. It's something you
could fab up with Home Depot aluminum angle
(or whatever) and a saber saw; black plastic
angle, maybe even easier. It's not a ducted cold air
system but a free-path one. But as long as you do
not believe in the "ram air" tooth fairy this is fine,
cold air is cold air. My setup draws from the above-
divider space and IATs are right about ambient
while as-delivered the SLP CAI was raising them
about 10 degrees (before that, the SS hood alone
was 1-2 degrees above).
Opening up the bottom of the airbox doesn't appear
to be a very significant improvement since there are
tighter chokes in the intake tract, than the 11"x3/4"
air slot.