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3000 or 3500...big difference?
Originally Posted by ILLSMOKQ
just curious to know if ill feel a difference between a 3000 or 3500 stall.....will 500 higher stall make that much of a difference
You will for sure feel a 500 difference in stall.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
3500 will feel looser around town; if it has a higher STR, it will hit harder if you flash it; and it will have a higher shift extension - all of which will be noticeably, but not drastically, different.
Typically higher stall and higher STR "go
together". So you will feel higher RPM with
nothing happening, and then "bam!".
I went from 3000/2.2 to 3500/2.0 with the
idea of not wasting the tires, spreading out
the torque multiplication region and keeping
some efficiency up top. Ended up with only
a slight increase in cruise-unlocked RPM (100
or so down low) and less wheelspin, the
efficiency took a 1% or so drop at the top
end and comes in later but that's what the
higher stall does, pushes that out.
Anyway you have three degrees or so of
freedom to play with; stall speed, STR and
the quality of design / manufacturing (how
well the result follows the stated goal, can
they make you the efficiency as well as the
rating numbers, etc.).
Take the time with the mfr to explain the
desired characteristics and find out whether
they can provide or special-build what you
think you want (with converters, you will
probably learn from your first and from your
second...).
together". So you will feel higher RPM with
nothing happening, and then "bam!".
I went from 3000/2.2 to 3500/2.0 with the
idea of not wasting the tires, spreading out
the torque multiplication region and keeping
some efficiency up top. Ended up with only
a slight increase in cruise-unlocked RPM (100
or so down low) and less wheelspin, the
efficiency took a 1% or so drop at the top
end and comes in later but that's what the
higher stall does, pushes that out.
Anyway you have three degrees or so of
freedom to play with; stall speed, STR and
the quality of design / manufacturing (how
well the result follows the stated goal, can
they make you the efficiency as well as the
rating numbers, etc.).
Take the time with the mfr to explain the
desired characteristics and find out whether
they can provide or special-build what you
think you want (with converters, you will
probably learn from your first and from your
second...).
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I've heard of noone using a B&M for LSx vehicles. So
I wouldn't place much stock in what you've heard. It
can take a year on the street for new converter models
to really show what they're made of. And an old school
SBC reputation doesn't mean diddly when you move to
lockup converters, a whole new class of things to screw
up.
I disagree that the 3000 is not worth the money. It's on
the street end of street/strip but it will produce a definite
wake-up. If you don't have headers and a cleaned up
intake side, and don't raise your shiftpoints, it might be
more appropriate to the car.
A 3500 generally will cost you a percent or two over a
3000 at the upper end, in efficiency. That's lost HP up
top although the gain in midband might outweigh it. Or
not.
I wouldn't place much stock in what you've heard. It
can take a year on the street for new converter models
to really show what they're made of. And an old school
SBC reputation doesn't mean diddly when you move to
lockup converters, a whole new class of things to screw
up.
I disagree that the 3000 is not worth the money. It's on
the street end of street/strip but it will produce a definite
wake-up. If you don't have headers and a cleaned up
intake side, and don't raise your shiftpoints, it might be
more appropriate to the car.
A 3500 generally will cost you a percent or two over a
3000 at the upper end, in efficiency. That's lost HP up
top although the gain in midband might outweigh it. Or
not.
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