converter questions
#1
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if i am going to go nitrous i need a nitrous converter..so if on yanks website i get a nitrous 3600 it will flash to roughly 3600 on spray right? but i'm not going to nitrous for awhile (atleast thats the plan) and want a converter that will work really well n/a. What size nitrous stall will be close to a regular yank 3600?
LET me know if im dead wrong on all this lol...
LET me know if im dead wrong on all this lol...
#2
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hmm...Good question, what is the difference between a nitrous stall and a n/a stall? I would think that if it stalls to 3600, it stalls to 3600 on or off the spray, how would the t/c know if your spraying or not? So just get the yank, right?
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Originally Posted by jpat1023
hmm...Good question, what is the difference between a nitrous stall and a n/a stall? I would think that if it stalls to 3600, it stalls to 3600 on or off the spray, how would the t/c know if your spraying or not? So just get the yank, right?
#5
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Originally Posted by Joel_SS
Stall rating is based on engine torque output. If engine torque is signifigantly higher, such as on the hose, you converter will flash signifigantly higher. Thus the reason people who use N20 alot go with a little lower stall speed than a pure NA setup.
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ill give you a bump magnet, im interested in this as well. Ive heard people talk about using something called anti-ballooning plates with tci stalls for n2o. Im looking into an n2o stall as well because i dont want to thrash my tranny with a 150 shot and i dont want the n2o to go straight through the stall.
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Originally Posted by Magnet
So if i got a say 4000 nitrous converter it will work alot better with a N/A setup and also with my nitrous setup...ANY suggestions??
#12
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the difference B/T a nitrous TC and a regualar TC, is that on a nitrous TC has an anti balloning plate so that when you hit the verter with all this power from out of nowhere it doesn't get warped and get thrown to ****. and a regualr TC doesn't come with the anti balloning plate but can still take a 100 shot hit of nitrous.
really you only need the anti balloning plate if you're going to be running 200 and higher, but im going to be running 150 shot and im going to play it safe and get the nitrous verter.
Hope this help and answers your question
B.J.
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Hope this help and answers your question
B.J.
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Originally Posted by bjamick
the difference B/T a nitrous TC and a regualar TC, is that on a nitrous TC has an anti balloning plate so that when you hit the verter with all this power from out of nowhere it doesn't get warped and get thrown to ****. and a regualr TC doesn't come with the anti balloning plate but can still take a 100 shot hit of nitrous.
really you only need the anti balloning plate if you're going to be running 200 and higher, but im going to be running 150 shot and im going to play it safe and get the nitrous verter.
Hope this help and answers your question
B.J.
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Hope this help and answers your question
B.J.
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once you balloon a conveter its junk , get the right one for your intended use
Nitrous, sudden shock in drivetrain = needs anti ballooning converter . an extra 100 hp can **** up stock **** quick . what do I know, I own a six speed
Nitrous, sudden shock in drivetrain = needs anti ballooning converter . an extra 100 hp can **** up stock **** quick . what do I know, I own a six speed
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#15
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but i have also been told that with a normal non-nitrous converter you will spray through it, so i don't want to do that. i know they are built tougher so they don't fly apart also, but i don't wnat my nitrous to blow through the converter. I also hear that since you have so much tourque n nitrou it will stall alot higher than normal
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Originally Posted by Detroitmuscle
I also spoke with Dave at Yank and he aid I'd be able to spray a 150 shot on my SS4000 with no problems as long as I set my shift points at 6800 or so.
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Originally Posted by Joel_SS
You wont be shifting long putting the stock short block through 6800 rpms shifts and N20.
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Originally Posted by Magnet
but i have also been told that with a normal non-nitrous converter you will spray through it, so i don't want to do that. i know they are built tougher so they don't fly apart also, but i don't wnat my nitrous to blow through the converter. I also hear that since you have so much tourque n nitrou it will stall alot higher than normal
And not to make your decision harder but, i read a post on here somewhere where someone didnt like the yank nitrous T/C very much because when they were trying to make all motor passes they said the T/C was way too tight to cut a good '60ft. but i think the t/c may have had a low str or something along those lines.
And my last questions i promise, I assume a regular stall will flash higer with n2o but would a stall made for n2o still flash higher? or would it not affect it because of the anti-ballooning plates?
#20
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i also saw that post and with my limited knowledge, i think the problem was that he had like a 3000 nitrous converter or something and since it was a nitrous converter it probably only flashed like 2400 or so N/A therefore not giving very good 60's...again this is all speculation based on my (very) limited knowledge